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A Reuben to end all Reubens

Owner Scott McCandless of Clover says the best reuben sandwich in town, indeed the country, is the one he serves at Clover in Spokane. McCandless has owned dozens of restaurants.  Photographed Thursday, Junly 13, 2017.  Jesse Tinsley/THE SPOKESMAN-REVIEW. (Jesse Tinsley / The Spokesman-Review)
Owner Scott McCandless of Clover says the best reuben sandwich in town, indeed the country, is the one he serves at Clover in Spokane. McCandless has owned dozens of restaurants. Photographed Thursday, Junly 13, 2017. Jesse Tinsley/THE SPOKESMAN-REVIEW. (Jesse Tinsley / The Spokesman-Review)

When you mouth off for a living, you occasionally must eat your words.

Or in this case a masterpiece of a Reuben sandwich.

“Oh, mamma,” I told the gravel-voiced gentleman sitting on the barstool to my right. “This is the Reuben of the Gods.”

I know. My job can be really brutal sometimes.

I heard Scott McCandless laughing. I think he said something like “Right! I knew it,” but I was too engaged with my own chomping to be absolutely certain.

McCandless, 64, is the owner of Clover, 913 E. Sharp. Ensconced in an attractive 1904 Craftsman bungalow, the restaurant is considered to be one of Spokane’s finest dining establishments.

In addition, some wonk at Food & Wine magazine named Clover in 2013 as being one of the country’s Best New American Bars.

But I didn’t come for the booze. I came to Clover last Thursday get my culinary myth shattered.

It all started with an earlier phone call to McCandless on an unrelated topic. Then, somehow, our conversation turned to one of my all-time favorite meals.

Ah, the Reuben, a combination of corned beef, sauerkraut and thousand island or Russian dressing between toasted rye bread.

Not everybody appreciates these intense flavors – I get that. More here. Doug Clark/SR




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Cindy Hval
Cindy Hval is a freelance columnist for the Voices neighborhood sections. Her Front Porch column appears twice a month in the Thursday Voice.