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David’s Pizza Loses A Little Bit Of Original New York-Style Edge

Fri., April 7, 1995, midnight

David’s Pizza 4 N. Howard

The honeymoon is over.

A year and a half ago, when David’s Pizza first opened, I gushed over Spokane’s first New York-style pizza joint.

Alas, the bloom of love has faded ever so slightly. But like any worthwhile relationship, I’m willing to hang in there.

Don’t get me wrong. I still think David’s sells the best pizza in the city. It’s just that the ‘za has taken a turn for the mainstream.

New York-style pizza is characterized by thin crust, lots of spicy sauce and plenty of gooey cheese. On this coast, Guido’s in Seattle and Escape from New York in Portland provide fine reference points.

The sauce at David’s initially contained enough garlic to keep the peskiest vampires at bay. Something I appreciated, but it wasn’t to everyone’s taste.

Dan Spalding, the man behind David’s, said a number of customers complained so they cut back on the odorous herb. However, with a little advance notice, he said, they would be delighted to add extra garlic to a pie on request.

Also, I had heard some buzz that the cheese didn’t taste the same.

Spalding said they are still using the same supplier for their wholemilk mozzarella. It’s the crust recipe that’s changed.

The new crust is more substantial so when the pie cooks, the cheese doesn’t throw off puddles of grease like it used to. That is a welcome change.

Other nice additions include a selection of beers and an increase in the number of toppings. They now offer espresso and wonderful cookies baked on-premises. They are also looking at expanding the seating.

Still, I can’t help but think David’s could do better. On a couple of pies sampled recently, they skimped on the sauce and cheese. The top onethird of the crust was virtually bare.

Still, even with its minor shortcomings - which can easily be corrected - David’s soars above the mundane pies offered by the glut of chain pizza parlors.

It’s located at 4 N. Howard. Phone 838-6982 for takeout and delivery orders.

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