Noodle Dish Has Touch Of Orient

The pasta revolution of the ‘80s introduced cooks to an array of new shapes, from corkscrew to seashell, for the dinner plate.

The ‘90s approach to pasta is to provide new noodle tastes and is inspired by Asian, not Italian, ingredients.

The Japanese, for example, who thrive on soba (buckwheat) noodles, prepare them simply to highlight the noodle. The noodles are cooked until firm at the core and served topped with a scattering of vegetables and/or shrimp or poultry.

It is served either in a broth or plain with a dipping sauce that is part stock, part soy sauce, wine and brown sugar. Hot noodles are served during the cold season, chilled ones when the weather is warm.

Chicken and Asparagus with Buckwheat Noodles is not a Japanese dish but is inspired by the delicious soba noodle and its affinity for soy sauce and sesame oil.

In this recipe, however, the vegetables and poultry share the limelight with the noodles. When there’s a chill in the air, eat the dish warm; otherwise let it come to room temperature.

Serve the noodles with a refreshing salad of pears, greens and hazelnuts.

Chicken and Asparagus with Buckwheat Noodles

1 (5-ounce) package soba (buckwheat)

noodles (see note)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 garlic clove, minced

2 cups 1 1/2-inch pieces asparagus (about 1/2 pound)

1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast meat, cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced green onion

Salt, pepper

Cook noodles in large pan of water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain.

Meanwhile, heat vegetable oil in large skillet. Add shallot and garlic and saute over medium heat 3 minutes. Add asparagus pieces and saute 5 minutes more. Add chicken, sesame oil, sesame seeds and soy sauce. Cook until chicken is tender and cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Add drained noodles and toss well. Add green onion and salt and pepper to taste. Toss again. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: Soba noodles are available at some supermarkets and health food stores.

Pears And Field Greens

1 medium ripe but firm Bartlett pear, peeled

2 cups mixed greens (see note)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon crushed, dried thyme

1 1/2 tablespoons dry vermouth

2 to 3 teaspoons raspberry, balsamic or sherry vinegar

Salt, freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped hazelnuts

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

Core pear and cut into thin wedges. Arrange greens on two salad plates and top each with half the pear wedges.

Stir together oil, thyme, vermouth, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste in cup. Pour over salads. Sprinkle each salad with half the hazelnuts and half the onion.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: Use a mix of salad greens that include both tender and mild and some bitter varieties, for example, Bibb lettuce and some arugula.

MEMO: Bev Bennett is food editor of the Chicago Sun-Times and author of four cookbooks.