Don’t Count Out Chardonnay

What’s the cool white wine to sip this summer?

Well, I read somewhere that true hipsters are ordering “ABC” anything but chardonnay.

Oh, come on now. Chardonnay bashing has been festering for some time, but it’s time we concede that this French-bred varietal remains the top choice of white wine drinkers. No amount of clever marketing gimmickry is going to change that.

And there are some good reasons consumers cling to their chardonnay.

Chardonnay has always been one of those wines you could order in a restaurant and be assured of sounding semi-sophisticated. You could also consistently count on getting something dry, something rich-tasting that had a nice citrus zing.

But, these days, not all chardonnays are created equal. There seems to be as many styles as labels - something that can make shopping for chardonnay confusing. When you pop that cork are you in store for a rich, buttery wine or a light, fruity version?

Making chardonnays with a touch of fruitiness has become trendy since California giant Kendall Jackson became a consumer favorite by leaving a trace of sweetness in its chardonnay. As the not-so-old saying goes, people like to talk dry and drink sweet.

Another industry leader has followed K-J’s lead. Gallo recently released its ‘93 Sonoma County chardonnay and it succeeds as a light, refreshing white that’s more suited for picnics than serious sipping.

It has pleasant citrus aromas and flavor, but the huge oakey characteristic of the classic California chardonnay is more subdued. Three cheers, I say.

Here are some suggestions for people looking for a lighter style and a little fruit in their chardonnay: Columbia Crest, Hogue Cellars, Waterbrook, Caterina, Fetzer Sundial, Corbett Canyon, Camelot, J. Lohr, Rodney Strong, Napa Ridge (the central coast label, not the reserve) and Louis Martini.

Coincidentally, many of the lighter styles tend to be less expensive, too. Most of the wines listed are under $10.

Cyber cellar

If your eyes glaze over when you read about the information superhighway, skip this item. Personally, my tires are still mired on the back roads of thinking of my personal computer as a fancy typewriter.

But a come-on from the Virtual Vineyards makes going on-line sound mighty tempting. The service offers wine lovers the opportunity to shop for top-notch wines on the Internet, peruse helpful hints on food and wine pairings and pose questions to the “cork dork.”

The service is the brainchild of Peter Granoff, a former sommelier at the highly respected Square One in San Francisco.

Virtual Vineyards can be accessed at http://www.virtualvin.com.

Datebook fodder

Make those last days of summer eventful by attending one of the upcoming wine festivals.

One of the state’s oldest wine celebrations, the Prosser Wine and Food Fair, takes place this weekend. Tickets are $6 in advance ($12 at the gate) and can be ordered by calling (509) 786-4545. The fair runs from 3 to 9 p.m. Saturday.

There are still a few tickets left for the Summer Wine Festival Aug. 18 at Carnegie’s at the Highlands Golf Course in Post Falls.

More than 140 wines will be poured at the event, much of it top-notch stuff. There will be lots of sparkling wine, in particular. There will also be a good selection of microbrews. Tickets ($27.50) include appetizers and entertainment.

Bring your gold card for some of the auction items, including a vertical collection of Woodward Canyon wine donated by Jimmy D’s Wine Cellar.

Proceeds will benefit the Trinity Group Home in Coeur d’Alene. The fun starts at 7 p.m. and they stop pouring about 9. Check with local wine shops for tickets, or call (208) 773-1596.

The Northwest’s most prestigious tasting and auction will be held Aug. 26 at Chateau St. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash. Tickets are $250 apiece, but you get to compare tasting notes with some of the biggest names in the biz. This year’s honorary chairman is wine writer Hugh Johnson. The event is sold out, but to add your name to a waiting list, call (206) 728-1185.

Pucker up

This isn’t a fashion column, but I can’t resist calling attention to Estee Lauder’s fall collection of lipsticks. The group is called “wine tastings.”

Shades include Bordeaux-Bordeaux, Ruby Wine and Rosa. You won’t have to worry about your tongue turning red with these, just check your teeth.

Read all about it

They could have called it “Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Wine But Were Afraid To Ask.”

Somehow, “The Oxford Companion to Wine” seems a bit dry for this engaging tell-all, which was recently named Best Wine Book of 1994.

The 1,100-page tome covers everything from the history and botany of grape-growing to wine’s impact on commerce and literature. One of the judges who selected the book for the top honor called it the ultimate wine reference book.

“The Oxford Companion to Wine” sells for $49.95.

, DataTimes MEMO: Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Leslie Kelly welcomes questions and comments from readers about all aspects of wine. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486; fax 459-5098.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review