Arrow-right Camera
Subscribe now

Don’t Forget The Elegant Side Of Pasta

Bev Bennett Los Angeles Times

A recently overheard remark: “No one I know cooks on weeknights. Except for pasta, of course.”

Pasta is the worknight convenience food.

Dinner can be as basic as a pot of water and a package of spaghetti. It comes together in the time it takes to change from office clothes into shorts and a T-shirt, and it goes with whatever happens to be in the refrigerator.

Unfortunately, although twosomes rely on pasta for instant weeknight meals, they may overlook it for a special entree. They don’t have to.

What makes a dish elegant or homey is the mix of ingredients and the presentation.

Saturday night’s pasta is not spaghetti with a jar of sauce. Instead, it is smoked salmon, feta cheese and snow peas tossed with a fancy pasta such as toothsome, ear-shaped orchietta.

The smoky, tangy taste of this dish is delightful and the mix of orange salmon with green peas is lovely. Yet it requires no more effort than one would devote to Wednesday night dinner.

A dish this stylish demands a classic dessert. Make it Blueberry Sauce over vanilla ice cream or shortcake.

Snow Pea and Salmon Pasta

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 heaping cup snow peas, trimmed

6 ounces orchietta (ear-shaped pasta), shells or similar pasta

Salt

2 ounces smoked salmon, diced

2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

1 green onion, white and green parts, chopped

Heat oil in medium skillet. Add snow peas and saute over medium-high heat until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in 4 quarts boiling salted water until tender. Drain well and place in bowl. Add snow peas and any remaining oil from skillet, smoked salmon, feta cheese, pepper, parsley and green onion. Toss gently but well. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 2 servings.

Blueberry Sauce

2 teaspoons butter

1 cup fresh blueberries

1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

1 to 2 teaspoons honey, to taste

Vanilla ice cream or shortcake, optional

Melt butter in small pan. Add blueberries and cook over low heat until pulpy, about 10 minutes.

Add ginger, nutmeg and orange liqueur. Cook at brisk simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Taste mixture. Add honey as desired, but simmer 2 to 3 minutes to blend in. Serve sauce over ice cream or shortcake or both.

Yield: About 3/4 cup sauce.