Loyal Customers Like Percy’s Food, Prices
I wish I had a raspberry-filled croissant for every time I had my culinary expectations crushed by thoroughly average food at fancy restaurants that promise great things but don’t deliver. The disappointments are especially keen if you have to cough up 20 bucks for a plate of so-called chic cuisine. That’s why it’s so nice to stumble on reasonably priced, well-prepared meals served in such an unassuming setting.
Percy’s is located at the University City shopping mall in the Spokane Valley. That means when they ask you if you’d like a window table, it comes with a view of shoppers strolling through that rather empty mall. I’d rather sit among the weeping figs and silk flowers under the skylight on the main floor of the dining room.
During lunch, the place was packed, and judging from the familiar way servers greeted many of the diners, the crowd consisted of lots of regulars.
Some of those loyal customers go way back. Old-timers might remember Percy’s in the ‘60s, when it opened as The Golden Hour. In 1984, Pat Kroetch and her husband Greg bought the restaurant from Pat’s father, Percy. Today, the restaurant continues to be very much a family affair, with son Greg Jr., stepping in as the manager and other siblings doing bookkeeping, bartending or working as a waiter.
Not surprisingly, Percy’s does a fine job of catering to families. In addition to the standard issue of crayons, there’s a kid’s menu that includes fish and chips, peanut butter and jelly and even a pint-sized version of prime rib.
The menu for grownups is divided into beef, chicken and seafood entrees. Percy’s offers an attractive program in which a couple can order two dinners for $22. That includes an appetizer, entree and dessert.
Unlike many restaurants that only pay lip service to lean cuisine, Percy’s dedicates a sizeable portion of its menu to low-fat, whole-grain entrees that the Kroetches devised after a visit to the Pritikin Health Institute several years ago.
The healthy offerings include dishes such as a vegetable lasagna made with whole wheat noodles, a black bean burrito, stir-fried chicken and red snapper topped with a tomato-basil sauce.
I sampled a lean pasta dish - the chicken and vegetable rotelli ($8.95) - and was impressed with its intense, lemony sauce. It’s amazing that a sauce so light could be so flavorful.
The dish didn’t look particularly appealing - a sprinkling of fresh, chopped parsley or basil might improve its appearance - but I forgave the ho-hum presentation after the first flavorful bite. I appreciated that the veggies were still slightly crunchy and the pieces of chicken were moist and mildly seasoned. It was a generous portion, too.
All meals come with a choice of a small loaf of one of the five breads, baked daily on premises. The selection includes a dill bread, whole wheat, sourdough and the slightly sweet, lightly frosted orange or raisin bread. Tables of four or more receive all five flavors to sample.
During dinner, my companion ordered the house specialty, the French peppercorn steak ($14.95). The top sirloin arrived with an ample coating of cracked black peppercorns and was topped with sauteed mushrooms. The savory sauce, spiked with brandy, enhanced the flavor of the juicy steak. The only minor complaint with the dish was that the meat was cooked medium instead of medium rare.
Throughout the meal, our waitress delivered items with swift efficiency, including quickly returning a salad that had bacon bits. (It seems odd that a restaurant dedicated to offering low-fat fare would make bacon bits standard issue on its salads.)
A return visit for lunch confirmed my initial impression. A concentrated white wine sauce made the pasta primavera ($5.95) much more than the usual noodles and veggies. It’s a true testament to proper seasoning when I don’t have to reach for the salt shaker.
And, the “Manwich” ($6.25) was a hit with a fellow horseradish fan. He said the fiery spread on the giant roast beef sandwich was enough to bring tears to his eyes.
On both outings, I found the soups, all which are made from scratch, preferable to the rather blah dinner salads. If you’re a fan of cold starters, don’t miss the chilled summer soup. Shrimp, avocado, cucumber and chunks of cream cheese float in a tomato base. It’s a rich little package.
Other nice touches at Percy’s include the short, but well-chosen and reasonably priced wine list. For instance, there’s a Waterbrook chardonnay for $12.50 and a Latah Creek cabernet for $18. (The list, however, mistakenly identifies Frexinet sparkling wine as coming from Portland, rather than Spain. Nit-picking, yes. But people notice such details.) Also, tap beers are served with an oversized pretzel dangling from a swizzle stick.
On Sundays, Percy’s offers brunch. The elaborate spread includes an omelette bar, pasta dishes made to order, more than 20 hot dishes and a huge selection of pastries, for $8.95.
, DataTimes MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: Percy’s Eating and Drinking Establishment Address: University City, 924-6022 Meals: American favorites with contemporary touches Prices: lunches $4.50-$7.50; dinners $7-$15. Days, hours: Mondays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sundays, brunch is served 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner served until 8 p.m. Alcohol: full bar Smoking: small smoking section Reservations: yes Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V Personal checks: yes