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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Don’t Make Loss Of Limb A Snap Decision

Phyllis Stephens The Spokesman-

Driving through the neighborhood the other day, I was struck by the awesome beauty of a locust tree silhouetted against the blue sky. Whomever is pruning and maintaining this tree should be commended. Its well-spaced branches give the tree’s structure dignity and strength. If only all trees could be given such care and respect.

Because of the mild winter, many of us may be looking at getting a jump on the annual ritual of pruning. But before grabbing the chainsaw, keep in mind that pruning is a practice that requires knowledge, proper equipment, patience and an eye for beauty. The mad pruner is a thing of the past.<

The following are a few tips that may help you through this chore. If executed properly, you’ll enhance the beauty and prolong the life of the tree (and perhaps your marriage).

Know your tree: You’re dealing with a live organism and you’re the surgeon. Before operating, be able to identify the tree species - ash, maple, oak, etc. Determine its normal growth pattern - very tall, short, wide, round, thin or vase-shaped? How does it react to pruning and is now the best time? Be able to identify the various parts of the tree and understand their functions. You would never let a surgeon touch you if he wasn’t well-acquainted with the why’s and wherefore’s of all your body parts. Know that the main scaffold branches are for more than climbing and hanging old tire swings. They provide the tree’s framework and they’re the byway for nutrients and water moving up and down the tree.

Be able to identify buds, those that are obvious and those that aren’t. Which buds will form leaves and which will form flowers? How important are leaves? Familiarize yourself with the “branch-bark-collar.” It resembles an old horse collar and is found where a branch connects to the trunk. We never cut into this swollen collar.

There are excellent books available on pruning that contain understandable language and drawings. They can be found in most book stores and garden centers.

Pruning (the art of patience): Start out by removing dead and diseased wood. Once that chore is complete, step back. Study the tree. Before removing any large branches, remove smaller branches and twigs that are growing toward the center of the tree. You will be amazed how this simple clean-up opens the canopy, creating a very pleasing appearance.

If the canopy still looks unruly, look for larger branches that may be crowding each other - those that are rubbing, criss-crossing or growing into the center of the tree. Choosing which branch to remove may be a two-person operation - one person to pull a branch aside, simulating removal, while the other person looks at the remaining shape of the tree.

Once the dead, diseased and misplaced branches have been removed, prune to shape. When cutting back small branches and twigs, cut back to a bud that is directed outward. This outward-facing bud will produce a branch or twig that will grow away from the tree instead of into the tree.

Try not to remove more than one-third of the total branch area within one year. Trees need their leaves for food and sun protection.

Pruning paints are not necessary if the wound has been made correctly. The tree will seal off the wound quickly. If severe pruning is necessary (perhaps the tree is interfering with powerlines or view), consult a certified arborist. There are techniques and pruning cuts that are not injurious to the tree. We never top trees.

And never allow anyone to prune your trees unless you’ve seen his or her work. Once a cut is made, it is for life. There is no gluing it back on.

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The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Phyllis Stephens The Spokesman-Review