Pedaling The Puget The Seat Of A Bicycle May Offer The Best View Of The Unique Wonders Of Puget Sound Islands And Peninsulas

On a clear day, you can see forever across the cobalt-blue waters of Puget Sound. At least, it seems like forever when you’re exploring rural Whidbey Island from the vantage point of a bicycle seat.

Whether you’re swooping at full speed down a secluded road through groves of fragrant fir trees, or grinding your gears to the top of a rugged, coast-hugging bluff, the world looks different from a cyclist’s view.

Scenic views, crisp sea air and quiet country roads are only a few reasons to island and inn hop by bicycle in Puget Sound. Daytime adventures include visits to historic forts and lighthouses, walks and picnics on windswept beaches, good company and plenty of exhilarating pedal pumping.

Nights are spent sampling Northwest cuisine and relaxing at a variety of intriguing inns ranging from Victorian to trendy beachfront. It’s the perfect match - adventure by day and comfort at night.

Early one Sunday morning, the Mukilteo ferry whisked us from the hubbub of Seattle to the country roads of Whidbey Island, where our week-long bicycle journey began. On the way, Jo Zulaica, our tour leader from Backroads of Berkeley, Calif., filled us in on her three axioms for the trip.

“Number one, it ain’t flat,” cautioned Jo, referring to Washington’s terrain. Two months of riding on mostly flat paths in California had seemed like ample preparation until I glanced out the window and saw the undulating, forest-covered island looming ahead. I hoped that the 21 gears on my rental bicycle would help.

“Number two,” Jo continued, “it will rain. And three, the van is good.”

The van is good. Sighs of relief escaped from our group of five Californians, two Louisianans and one New Yorker who ranged in age from the mid-30s to mid-50s. No need to be shy about hitching a ride in the “sag wagon” to travel up a few of those hills.

As soon as we stepped off the ferry, we discovered the reality of Jo’s first axiom. From the sea level dock, there was only one way to pedal - up. Fortunately, the van carried our gear to a wooded picnic spot on the southern tip of Whidbey Island, where we were introduced to our bicycles. After a generous lunch, we made fast work of the six-mile ride to our first destination.

The restful atmosphere of the Inn at Langley, our home for two nights, provided the perfect ending to pedaling up and coasting down island slopes. Each waterfront room boasted a warming fireplace and a whirlpool tub for relaxing while whale-watching through strategically placed picture windows.

Whidbey Island, a narrow squiggle of land in the heart of Puget Sound, is said to be the longest island in the continental United States. The southern half of its 45-mile length consists of picturesque farms, quaint seaside villages, peaceful stands of hemlock and fir and - best of all for cyclists - little-traveled roads.

Each day’s route covered about 30 miles, with longer options available for more energetic riders. Traveling at our own pace, we zigzagged across Whidbey from sandy inlet to pebbly cove. We flew down steep hills past neat rows of white rail fences, then struggled up stair-step grades bordered by blackberry bushes laden with ripe fruit - a good excuse to stop and taste.

On day three, we loaded our luggage in the van and headed north on our bikes. The rolling road carried us past Christmas tree farms, then along the aptly named Useless Bay (too shallow). At Smuggler’s Cove, we stopped to hike down a fern-lined trail to a sandy beach. Back on the bikes, we rolled into Greenbank Loganberry Farm for a picnic beside a duck pond and a sample of Whidbey’s sweet berry liqueur.

Another 15 miles brought us sailing past noisy pheasant breeding pens and into Coupeville, Washington’s second-oldest town, where a museum displays pioneer memorabilia. A few miles farther, past red-barked madrona trees and Penn Cove, famous for its mussels, the welcome sight of the Captain Whidbey Inn came into view.

Originally built from madrona logs in 1907, Captain Whidbey’s served as a retreat for guests who came up the Sound by steamer from Seattle. Like turn-of-the century visitors, we dined on freshly caught salmon, then fell into soft feather beds in rustic, secluded cabins.

The next morning, the most scenic part of the route unfolded. From the top of a cliff hugging the banks of Puget Sound, the snow-capped Olympics could be clearly seen rising from the opposite shore.

The fastest riders squeezed in a visit to Fort Casey before catching the ferry headed to the Olympic Peninsula. In the other direction, Mount Rainier, looking like a giant vanilla ice cream cone, glistened against the bright blue sky.

At the ferry dock, the road led uphill to historic Port Townsend, a Victorian gem of a town. The antique-filled Starrett House, an exquisite bed and breakfast inn built in 1889, offered spectacular views of an endless parade of ferries and freighters.

A 10-mile loop from town led to Fort Worden, a military fortification standing on the shores of Admiralty Inlet and the filming site of “An Officer and a Gentleman.” With snowy Mount Baker visible to one side, the bright white- and redtrimmed lighthouse at the end of the point formed a stunning backdrop for photos.

Leaving Port Townsend, we skirted Discovery Bay with its scenic water views. A detour brought us to desolate Fort Flagler, the third fort in the Triangle of Fire, and the last of the 1890s military outposts we explored. All three forts were established to guard the entrance to Puget Sound and, hence, Seattle.

By early afternoon, we reached the Manor Farm Inn, a delightful French-style country farm on the Kitsap Peninsula, and our final night’s lodging.

Tea and cakes were served by a roaring fire. Sherry arrived later, followed by a delicious garden-fresh, Northwest feast in the candle-lighted dining room.

The last morning, fortified by hot scones and coffee, we took our final ride. We whizzed through the festive Norwegian town of Poulsbo with its Scandinavian storefronts festooned with pots of colorful flowers. Early Friday afternoon, energized by our accomplishments, we coasted down to the Winslow ferry dock for the 40-minute trip back to Seattle.

Jo had been right in two of her three axioms. It wasn’t flat, and the van was good. But we were lucky. It didn’t rain, allowing us to experience Puget Sound’s island and inlets at their scenic best.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go BICYCLE TOURS: The trip described is from a company called Backroads, which offers six-day inn-to-inn and camping trips to Whidbey Island from June through October. The tour price of $1,298 ($698 if you’re camping) includes most meals, accommodations, the services of two tour leaders and van support. Bicycle rental is $109 and airport transfer $30. For more information contact Backroads, 1516-5th Street, Berkeley, CA 94710; (800) 462-2848. Other companies offering bicycle trips in Washington state include Progressive Travels (800) 245-2229; Timberline, (303) 759-3804; and Bicycle Adventures (800) 443-6060. MORE INFORMATION: To find out more about Whidbey Island, call the following Chambers of Commerce: Langley at (360) 221-6765, North Whidbey at (360) 675-3535 or Central Whidbey at (360) 678-5434. The Port Townsend Visitors’ Center may be reached at (206) 385-2722. RECOMMENDED READING: “Wild Plants of the San Juan Islands” by Scott Atkinson and Fred Sharpe describes the wildflowers, trees and shrubs you’re likely to see while bicycling. “The San Juan Islands - Afoot and Afloat” by Marge and Ted Meuller tells you everything you want to know about the the San Juans.