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Walla Wine Tastes So Fine

I’ve recently emerged from a serious case of palate burnout.

After stumbling through a rough patch of mediocre wine, I was actually thinking about switching to beer. But then I came to my senses.

One wine that helped reaffirm my admiration for fermented grape juice was the stunning 1992 cabernet sauvignon from L’Ecole No. 41, a small winery just outside Walla Walla.

The wine had the black cherry and berry flavors I like in a cab, but there seemed to be a more concentrated fruitiness crammed into my glass than with the typical cabernet. It was a nice wake-up call for my taste buds.

This was just the latest wine from L’Ecole to turn my head. Over the years, I’ve become a huge fan of vintner Marty Clubb’s distinctive style. His wines have personality.

The knockout semillon has been called the best varietal of its kind produced in the Northwest by respected wine writer Robert Parker. It has a sly, smoky charm and is bone dry, like a French white burgundy. It’s a wonderful complement to shellfish dishes.

I’m also impressed with the deeply flavored merlot and rich, toasty chardonnay. The only wine from L’Ecole that I haven’t tried is the whimsically named “Walla, Voila” chenin blanc, which is available only at the winery.

Though L’Ecole is now attracting plenty of critical acclaim, the winery began as a low-key, hobby-type operation of longtime Walla Walla residents Jean and Baker Ferguson.

The couple’s daughter and sonin-law, Megan and Marty Clubb, took the helm six vintages ago. Since then, production has been steadily increasing, up to more than 6,000 cases from the humble beginning of 1,000 cases in 1983. And the quality has improved.

Under Clubb, who studied chemical engineering and has a master’s in management from Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the winery has sought to make big-bodied wines that are approachable at the same time.

L’Ecole also hopes to distinguish itself among its highly respected neighbors. Walla Walla is home to powerhouse winemakers Rick Small of Woodward Canyon and Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellars.

“Rick and Gary set high standards and we’ve worked hard to shoot for a real premium wine,” Clubb said in a recent phone interview.

Like Figgins and Small, Clubb believes the basis for great wine is great fruit, so he has cultivated prestigious growers throughout the region. He buys grapes from Sagemoor Farms, Portteus, Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge, among others.

“I like to use fruit from several different vineyards to add more complexity,” he said.

In the winemaking process, Clubb has also started “punching down” the fruit during fermentation, a labor-intensive chore that makes for a more concentrated red wine. (Think of punching down a loaf of rising bread dough, but doing it over and over again over the course of two weeks, and you get an idea of what’s involved with punching down.)

Other techniques Clubb has adopted include keeping reds in French oak barrels for up to two years and not filtering the finished product - both designed to intensify the flavors.

The results are big, bold wines that aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. Even Clubb realizes that.

“Our wines are somewhat controversial, but there’s nothing wrong with that because at least that means people are talking about us,” he said.

L’Ecole wines are fairly reasonably priced, considering the quality. All are under $20 and the semillon is occasionally on sale for around $10. L’Ecole wines are available at specialty wine shops and some supermarkets with upscale selections.

Hot stuff

Around this time of year, I like to dive into chilly white wines like German rieslings and Northwest chenin blancs.

But this season, I’m determined to tweak the notion that certain wines are seasonal. Take zinfandel, for instance.

This hearty red wine is a natural for crisp fall nights. But because I love red wine, I decided to see how it would fare on a warm evening, served with a zesty pizza.

It was a Kendall Jackson, a winery I don’t usually think of for zin, but it was wonderful. It had a great spicy character that made for a perfect match with the pizza. And it didn’t seem to wilt with the heat.

Another pleasant surprise came in the form of port, the sweet dessert wine that seems best suited for sipping in front of a fire. But I recently sampled a tawny port from Australia that would weather any temperature.

First, I was blown away that this port came from down under. I hadn’t realized ports were made in Australia. This particular port came from a producer called Seppelt, which has dubbed the tawny Old Trafford.

A tawny port is distinguished from a red or ruby port because it is aged in wood, giving it a golden hue. This wine had a gorgeous caramel character, like a wonderful apple tart in a glass. It’s sweet, but that’s balanced with a smooth, warm kick - the result of fortifying the wine with brandy.

This classy wine, which shouldn’t be banished for summer, sells for around $18.

The moral of this story - one that deserves reaffirming often - is drink what you like, no matter what the weather.

Pretty in pink

Mountain Dome winery has just released its first vintage of sparkling rose.

This elegant wine, which receives its pretty color from pinot noir, was impressive when I tasted it last winter, and winemaker Michael Manz said it’s only improved over time.

It sells for around $18.

, DataTimes MEMO: Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Leslie Kelly welcomes questions and comments from readers about all aspects of wine. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486; fax 459-5098.

Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Leslie Kelly welcomes questions and comments from readers about all aspects of wine. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486; fax 459-5098.