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Beyond The Basic Burger The Traditional Burger Is Ok, But You Can Get Creative With A Number Of Variations

Kathy Casey Los Angeles Times Service

The neighbors are always peeking over our fence when we cook outdoors.

“What are you having?” they’ll ask, thinking I’m grilling up some gourmet creation, which sometimes I am.

Usually, I reply: “Oh, we’re just having burgers.”

But they don’t have to be the traditional standby - ground beef. Burgers can be just about anything, from lamb burgers on homemade rosemary buns with roasted red pepper mayonnaise, topped with nutty-tasting arugula and crisp slices of sweet Walla Walla onion, to salmon burgers basted with lemon butter and piled high with tangy, crunchy slaw.

The usually maligned, dry, ground turkey patties are given moisture, flavor and texture with the addition of crunchy minced water chestnuts, green onion, fresh ginger and teriyaki sauce. Then they’re topped with fresh grilled pineapple slices.

For non-meat eaters there are numerous vegetable and nut patties available. My favorite is the Wholesome & Hearty Garden Burger made from a wealth of nutritious ingredients such as mushrooms, brown rice, oats, cheese, bulgur wheat and lots of seasonings and spices.

When grilling veggie patties, be sure to cook them over medium-hot coals and watch them carefully, as they char easily. Remember, they’re already cooked, so all you’re doing is heating them through and grillmarking them.

Another unique and delicious burger variation is the very large portobello mushroom (available at specialty produce markets) dipped in a marinade of olive oil, garlic, lemon and orange juices, soy sauce and ginger, then grilled. Serve on slices of chewy, toasted rustic bread and adorn with such goodies as fresh tomato relish and wild greens. Voila! You’ve got a delicious, rich vegetarian alternative with a meatlike texture.

If ground beef burgers are your norm, then why not try a flavor twist? Stuff burger centers with a chunk of blue cheese or mix in chopped fresh garlic, sauteed mushrooms or zippy salsa.

Try adding flavorings such as soy, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, barbecue sauce or fresh chopped herbs. Minced celery, onions and chopped black or green olives will add a bit of fun texture.

Don’t be afraid to try new things. Experiment with melting different cheeses on top, or try a variety of breads for the bun. Just be sure to form your patty in the shape of the bread it’s going on.

Barbecued Lamb Burgers on Rosemary-Garlic Buns

Adapted from “Pacific Northwest the Beautiful Cookbook” (Collins Publishers, San Francisco.) The nutty-tasting arugula brings great flavor and crunch to the burgers.

1 small sweet red pepper or cup diced roasted red pepper (available in jars)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 pound ground lamb

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon minced onion

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 egg

Salt

4 Rosemary-Garlic Buns (recipe follows), or substitute store-bought buns and spread with garlic butter that has minced fresh rosemary added to it

Grainy mustard

Thinly sliced Walla Walla or red onions

Arugula or lettuce leaves, washed and dried

If using fresh red pepper, roast over hot flame or grill until skin is very charred. Peel, seed and pat dry. Mince very fine and then combine with mayonnaise in small bowl. Refrigerate until needed. (Can be made up to 3 days in advance.)

Mix lamb, pepper, mustard, rosemary, onion, garlic, vinegar, egg and salt to taste in bowl. Mix well. Divide meat into 4 portions. Shape into -1/2 inch-thick patties.

Heat barbecue until coals are very hot. Set patties on grill, turning when first side is browned. Cook to desired doneness, 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium. Split buns and toast lightly. Place burgers on buns. Serve with mustard, red pepper mayonnaise, thinly sliced onions and arugula.

Yield: 4 burgers.

Rosemary-Garlic Buns

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 package active dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water (90 degrees)

2 eggs

2 teaspoons finely minced fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon whole dry rosemary, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

In small saucepan, bring milk just to a simmer. Remove from heat. Stir in butter, sugar and salt. Dissolve ingredients and cool until lukewarm. Pour into large mixing bowl.

Dissolve yeast in cup warm water, then add to milk mixture. Whisk 1 egg and stir in along with rosemary, garlic and 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Mix in as much flour as needed to make smooth, moist dough.

Knead until smooth. Place in large greased bowl and turn to grease all sides of dough lightly. Cover with clean towel and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 hours.

Punch down and divide dough into 6 pieces. Roll each into ball and let rest 10 minutes, covered with towel. With well-floured rolling pin, roll dough into 4-inch rounds. Place on greased baking sheet. Cover lightly with towel and let rise until almost doubled.

Whisk remaining egg together with 1 tablespoon water in small bowl. Brush tops of buns lightly with egg wash. Bake at 350 degrees until light browning begins to take place. Remove buns from oven and very quickly repeat egg wash. Sprinkle buns with poppy seeds and remaining Parmesan cheese.

Quickly return to oven. Bake until golden brown (total baking time will be about 20 minutes). Extra buns can be cooled, wrapped and frozen for later use.

Yield: 6 buns.

Lemon-Dill Buns: Prepare Rosemary-Garlic Buns except substitute 2 teaspoons finely minced fresh dill or teaspoon dried dill weed and 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel for the rosemary and Parmesan cheese that are added to the cooled milk mixture. Do not sprinkle buns with Parmesan cheese.

Barbecued Salmon Burgers with Summer Slaw

Grill over hot white coals or fruity woods such as apple, cherry or pear chips and trimmings.

1 pound boneless, skinless salmon fillet, well chopped

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon minced onion

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons bread crumbs

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

Lemon-Sour Cream Butter, optional (recipe follows)

4 Lemon-Dill Buns (recipe above) or substitute quality store-bought buns

Mayonnaise or tartar sauce

Summer Slaw (recipe follows)

To prepare burgers, thoroughly mix salmon, pepper, mustard, onion, garlic, lemon juice, bread crumbs and salt in medium bowl. Divide into 4 portions. Shape into -1/2 inch-thick, 4-inch round patties.

Heat barbecue until coals are very hot. (Patties are fragile, so handle carefully.) Set patties apart on grill, turning when first side is nicely marked. Baste with Lemon-Sour Cream Butter and cook until just done, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side.

Split buns. If desired, butter lightly with Lemon-Sour Cream Butter and toast lightly. Spread buns with mayonnaise. Place burgers on buns and pile high with Summer Slaw.

Yield: 4 servings.

Lemon-Sour Cream Butter

This is also excellent basted on grilled fish such as fresh halibut.

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/4 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash Tabasco sauce

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons finely minced fresh parsley

Place butter, sour cream, lemon juice, sugar, zest, salt, Tabasco and mustard in mixing bowl or food processor and process until smooth and emulsified. (Butter will look broken at first, but keep whipping. It will come together and become smooth.) Fold in parsley.

Yield: About 1 cup.

Summer Slaw

1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

1 cup finely shredded green cabbage

1/2 cup finely shredded red cabbage

2 tablespoons coarsely grated carrots

1/4 cup coarsely grated, seeded cucumber, all liquid squeezed out well

2 tablespoons finely minced sweet red pepper

Blend together mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, salt, pepper and parsley in large bowl. Just before serving, add cabbages, carrots, cucumber and pepper. Toss well.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Teriyaki Turkey Burgers with Grilled Pineapple

Burgers:

4 to 5 tablespoons bread crumbs

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce (available in Asian section of grocery stores)

2 green onions, thinly sliced

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger root

1 pound ground turkey

1/4 cup finely chopped water chestnuts

Teriyaki sauce for basting

4 burger buns

Honey-Soy Mayonnaise:

1/2 cup low-fat mayonnaise

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons honey

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Accompaniments:

4 (1/4 -inch) slices fresh pineapple, peeled

Shredded lettuce

Thinly sliced red onion

To prepare burgers, stir together crumbs, egg, sauce, onions, ginger, turkey and water chestnuts in medium bowl until well combined. Divide into 4 portions. Shape into 1/2 -inch-thick patties. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

To prepare Honey-Soy Mayonnaise, mix together mayonnaise, soy sauce, honey and cayenne in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate. (Can be made up to 3 days in advance.)

Heat barbecue until coals are very hot. (Patties are fragile so handle carefully.) Set patties apart on grill, turning when first side is nicely marked. Baste with teriyaki sauce and cook until just done, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, grill pineapple until just marked on each side. Split buns and toast lightly. Spread buns with Honey-Soy Mayonnaise. Place burgers on buns. Top with grilled pineapple. Garnish with lettuce and onions.

Yield: 4 servings.

Garden Burgers with Pesto Mayo, Garden Tomato Relish and Cheese

4 Garden Burgers (Wholesome & Hearty or other high-quality brand), defrosted

4 slices provolone cheese

8 thick slices rustic French or Italian bread

Olive oil for toasting bread

Pesto Mayo (recipe follows)

Garden Tomato Relish (recipe follows) or substitute sliced tomatoes

Shredded lettuce or seasonal greens

Grill Garden Burgers over medium-hot coals, being careful not to char them. When first side is nicely marked, flip burgers and cover with cheese. Continue cooking until burgers are cooked and cheese is melted.

Meanwhile, lightly brush both sides of bread with olive oil. Grill on each side until lightly toasted. Spread bread with Pesto Mayo. Place burger on 1 slice. Top with tomato relish and lettuce. Place top bread slice. Repeat with remaining burgers.

Yield: 4 burgers.

Pesto Mayo

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 to 2 tablespoons pesto, depending on strength (homemade or purchased at grocery store)

Mix mayonnaise, pesto and mustard in small bowl. (Can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.)

Yield: About 1 cup.

Garden Tomato Relish

1 1/2 cups 1/4 -inch-diced Roma or other ripe tomatoes (about pound), seeds lightly squeezed out

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

Dash black pepper

Mix tomatoes, oil, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, vinegar, parsley, salt, garlic and pepper in small bowl.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups. = Chef Kathy Casey is a Seattle restaurant consultant and food writer.