Beat The Summer Rush In Vancouver, Victoria Exchange Rate, Discounts Good Reasons To Go

With British Columbia’s lakes, rivers and mountains only a couple of hours away, it’s sometimes easy to forget two of the province’s more civilized attractions, Vancouver and Victoria.

And right now is an excellent time to visit either, or both, of those cities for a variety of reasons.

First is the continued weakness of the Canadian dollar, which recently has been hovering at a nineyear low of around 71 cents U.S. That means, basically, a 30 percent discount on everything you buy, from food and lodging to souvenirs and artwork.

So a weekend in Vancouver in Victoria can be cheaper than a weekend in Seattle, with the savings substantial enough that you might consider flying instead of driving.

Second is the lack of tourists at this time of year, which gives both cities a pleasantly relaxed, uncrowded pace. It’s also a time when discounts abound. When I visited Victoria in February, store windows along the main shopping avenue - Government Street - all sprouted “sale” signs.

And, finally, the mild Northwest winter (so far, anyway) makes these coastal cities unusually pleasant to visit this early in the year. Both destinations are a walker’s delight, and the unseasonably warm temperatures make them even more enticing.

Victoria and Vancouver each have famous parks and gardens, but it’s still a bit early in the year to appreciate them. So if you’re planning to visit soon, I’d suggest focusing on shopping and relaxing (even the luxury hotels are affordable now). Some ideas:

VICTORIA

Shopping in Canada, sadly, isn’t as different as it used to be, with many products and brand names identical to what you’d find at home.

But Victoria still retains a strong English influence, and its downtown streets are lined with shops that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Some of the more interesting merchants, most of them on Government Street:

Rogers Chocolates was established here in 1885 and is famous worldwide for its handmade chocolates, especially its Victoria Creams in 15 varieties.

Edinburgh Tartan Shop has fabrics from Scotland, including kilts, caps, sweaters and blankets.

Robertson Ltd. features fine Spode china.

Eagle’s Moon Gallery is one of many outlets in Vancouver and Victoria for native art, including prints, carvings, sculpture and jewelry. With the weak Canadian dollars, prices for these items are exceptionally reasonable.

Northern Passage has contemporary works by British Columbia and Canadian artists.

James Bay Trading Co. features clothing, gifts, art, handicrafts like wooden duck decoys, hand-knit wool sweaters and leather goods.

Murchie’s. Established in 1894, this famous tea store has dusty old books listing favorite blends of longago customers. Unfortunately, the store now sells coffee, too, which is the predominant aroma.

The tobacconist on Government Street. Even nonsmokers might appreciate the sweet aroma of fine tobacco, including Cuban cigars. There’s a convenient gas flame for lighting your pipe, and a nice selection of lighters.

Chintz and Co. doesn’t seem particularly Canadian, but has a wonderful, eclectic collection of interior furnishings, dried flowers and new reproductions of antique furniture.

Virtually all of downtown Victoria is within easy walking distance from wherever you’re staying, so you don’t need a car; the city is easily reached by air or ferry/bus service.

On the edge of downtown is Chinatown, the second oldest in North America. It covers only a few square blocks, but still has interesting vegetable markets, gift shops and restaurants. If your taste buds are feeling adventurous, try a leisurely dim sum lunch at a Chinese restaurant; waiters come by your table with carts laden with small dishes and you pick what you’d like to sample (it’s a fun way to experiment).

And when you get tired of shopping, save time to wander through the Royal British Columbia Museum, conveniently located near the inner harbor and considered one of the best museums in North America.

Its superb displays cover 12,000 years of provincial history, with largeas-life exhibits ranging from Captain Vancouver’s ship to a native bighouse, a West Coast seashore and a Victorian town.

VANCOUVER

This city lacks the English flavor of Victoria, but makes up for it with cosmopolitan atmosphere, spectacular water and mountain views, and a diversity of shopping attractions.

A good introduction to Vancouver is Gastown, the (mostly) restored original neighborhood near the waterfront. Native and Canadian arts, clothing, imports and trendy restaurants are found in this shopping area, which is fun for strolling, too.

Nearby, Vancouver’s Chinatown is considerably larger and busier than Victoria’s, with many more stores. Don’t wander too far away from main streets, however; surrounding neighborhoods are rather seedy. First-time visitors should carry a map; it’s easy for pedestrians to get turned around since the hills slope in many directions and you can’t always see the water.

Some other shopping ideas:

Kerrisdale, in the vicinity of West Boulevard and 41st Avenue, has a wide variation of fashion, specialty and decorating shops. You’ll need to drive or take a bus or cab from downtown.

Granville Island (cab or bus from downtown; call (604) 666-6655 for information) is just under the Granville Street Bridge, about 10 minutes from downtown. Now a tourist mecca, with a path around the entire island that’s only a 15-minute stroll to circumnavigate, it has restaurants, a bustling food market, stores for kids and crafts shops. Be aware that many stores are closed Mondays in winter.

The stretch of Robson Street that runs from the Granville Mall, downtown, to the West End is as much fun for people watching as it is for shopping. Even on a winter weekend, it’s packed with pedestrians if the weather is decent. Look for specialty stores, lots of coffee houses and small ethnic restaurants.

Both Victoria and Vancouver are famous for their parks and gardens. But this really isn’t the time of year to enjoy them. So save the outdoor attractions for a spring or summer trip, and use this visit to spend money, instead.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with story: If you go Lodging: Both Vancouver and Victoria have a wide range of places to stay at a wide variety of prices, from inexpensive B&B’s to luxury hotels. For advice, information and reservations for accommodations anywhere in British Columbia, call Discover BC, (800) 663-6000. This government service has operators who can provide information about lodgings and make reservations. Canadian Pacific Hotels, which owns the famous Empress Hotel in Victoria (don’t forget to reserve for afternoon tea, whether you’re staying there or not) and the Hotel Vancouver and Waterfront Centre in Vancouver, is offering a Rain Festival package through the end of March. It features rooms at approximately $100 (U.S.) per night, complimentary umbrellas and guidebooks to Victoria or Vancouver filled with rainy-day suggestions and savings, including discounts at local theaters, museums, specialty stores and other attractions. Call CP Hotels at (800) 441-1414 and ask for the Rain Festival Package. Victoria general information: Tourism Victoria: (604) 382-2127 or (800) 663-3883. Vancouver general information: Travel Info Centre, (604) 683-2000. Transportation: B.C. Ferries (mainland to Vancouver Island): (604) 669-1211. Pacific Coach Lines (bus service between Victoria and Vancouver): (604) 662-3222. Washington State Ferries: (Anacortes to Vancouver Island): (206) 464-6400. Victoria Clipper (high-speed, passenger-only catamaran service from Seattle to Victoria): (206) 448-5000. Horizon Air offers daily service to Vancouver and Victoria; Canadian airlines also serve Seattle. Contact your travel agent. Annoyances: While you’re in Vancouver at the cramped, dingy, boring airport terminal that serves flights to Seattle, make sure you tell someone in authority how much you appreciate their $10 exit tax (cash or credit card), which helps ensure that your final memory of Canada is the kind of petty gouge that you’d expect from a banana republic. Recommended reading: “Vancouver Best Places” (Sasquatch) is a good source of information about restaurants, lodgings and shopping in Vancouver. It’s worth buying for the restaurant reviews alone. “The Vancouver Super Shopper” (Serious Publishing or JSI) has 1,500 categories of bargains, from alligator meat to wholesale ice cream. “Victoria’s Best Bargains” (Serious Publishing) is more of the same, plus a useful chapter on restaurant deals.