Only Belly Dancing Can Compete With This

I’m sitting on a soft pillow admiring the ancient mosaic patterns on the wall of the restaurant. I’m taken by the beauty of my surroundings, including the Moroccan belly dancer, when an older gentleman with a mustache rivaling mine places a large, cone-shaped ceramic dish in front of me.

He removes the lid of this tajin to reveal a mountain of fresh-steamed couscous. A large bowl of spicy vegetable stew is served, and I am encouraged to eat with my fingers.

My love for Moroccan food began that evening in 1988 when I was taking a culinary field trip to Marrakech, and it has never waned. That vegetable stew was one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had (besides seeing the belly dancer).

I have replicated this dish many times, with heartwarming results. I have substituted butternut or calabasa squash for the traditional pumpkin. The spice mixture, called Berbere, gives this dish its characteristic flavor. You may use my recipe or substitute curry powder or Garam Masala, available in Indian and Asian markets.

I recommend preparing this dish the evening before you serve it so the delicate flavors can marry. Serve over couscous, tiny spheres of semolina pasta. Most supermarkets carry quick-cooking couscous; a whole-wheat variety also is available.

Moroccan Vegetable Stew

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups chopped onions

1 green bell pepper, chopped (1 cup)

1 red bell pepper, chopped (1 cup)

2 all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced (3 cups)

1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped (3 cups)

3 carrots, chopped (2 cups)

3 tomatoes, chopped (2 cups)

1 1/2 tablespoons Berbere Spice Mixture (recipe below)

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups water, homemade vegetable stock or canned vegetable broth

Salt, to taste

1/4 cup minced parsley

Heat olive oil in a large (5 1/2-quart) saucepan over medium-high heat. Add all vegetables, spice mixture, garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add water, cover and simmer 20 to 25 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Season with salt and garnish with parsley.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 172 calories, 5 grams protein, 2 grams fat (10 percent fat calories), 35 grams carbohydrates, no cholesterol, 39 milligrams sodium.

Berbere Spice Mixture

This mixture may be refrigerated in a sealed jar for up to two weeks. It is excellent as a rub for eggplant, zucchini, tofu or poultry that you saute or broil.

2 teaspoons cumin seeds or 1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon allspice berries

3 whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon grated gingerroot

Pinch saffron threads

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add cumin, fennel, peppercorns, allspice, cloves and coriander seeds. Saute 2 minutes or until spices are lightly toasted. Place toasted spices in a spice or coffee grinder or mortar and pestle with remaining ingredients; grind or pound to blend well into a thick paste.

Yield: About 1/3 cup.

Note: Some paprikas are hot so make sure you pick one labeled “sweet” or this dish will be spicy.

Nutrition information per (1-tablespoon) serving: 15 calories, 0.63 grams fat (38 percent fat calories), 3 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 13 milligrams sodium.