World Blends Fusion Cooking Mixes Many Creative Flavors

Soy sauce in the spaghetti.

Chiles in the chickpeas.

A food faux pas? A culinary catastrophe? Nope. It’s fusion food, one of the hottest contemporary trends in cooking - and one of the oldest.

“Fusion food is combining elements from different cooking traditions into whatever you prepare,” says Hugh Carpenter, who put fusion on the front burner with his “Fusion Food Cookbook” (Artisan).

Europeans and Asians have “borrowed” food and cooking ideas from each other for centuries. One of the biggest exchanges occurred in the 15th century when the New World was settled, allowing Old World and New World foods to cross the Atlantic for the first time.

The exchange rate then diminished until about 20 years ago, as travel and communications capabilities grew. Immigration was the key.

“Food trends in this country have always followed population influxes,” Carpenter says.

The new populations, particularly Asian and Mexican, were able to support better supplies of foreign foods that were previously unavailable here. Cooks did what they’ve always done - experimented with what was around. The result was fusion food.

These days, even in out-of-the-way areas, everything from fresh chiles and ginger to balsamic vinegar and oyster sauce are easy to find. Along with fresh herbs and spices, Caribbean-grown fruits and exotic Southwestern and Mexican vegetables, they can be incorporated into dishes where they traditionally haven’t been seen before.

But there’s more to fusion food than throwing jalapenos into the meatloaf. Carpenter warns that without some understanding of ingredients, the result will be confusion food.

While there are no written rules about what cuisines and ingredients combine best, Asian and Mexican are preferred because both cuisines rely heavily on spices and vegetables for taste and style, as opposed to the heavy sauces in many European-based foods.

Caribbean, Southwest, Moroccan, Italian and even classic French influences are also popular in fusion foods. Substituting or adding spices and herbs results in flavor changes that range from subtle to complex without a smothering sauce or gravy.

“Asian seasonings can supply so much flavor without adding a lot of fat, and can even eliminate some fat,” Carpenter says.

As broadly as Carpenter defines fusion food, other chefs view it even more loosely.

“It’s taking a country’s diet and making it more comfortable for you,” says Dan Kobin, chef and co-owner of the World Cafe in New York City, which specializes in a mixed-ethnic cuisine.

For Kobin, fusion may mean serving a Moroccan burrito stuffed with eggplant and chickpeas or a chipotle pepper barbecue sauce. The key is experimentation, he says: “People should know they can rub tandoori on their chicken and still have it with a baked potato.”

Fusion food is a product of experience, says Holly Mervis, co-owner of La Petite Maison in Colorado Springs, which serves such “fused food” as roasted goat-cheese stuffed chile with black bean puree. Once you know the principles of cooking, she says, it’s easier to make substitutions and figure out through trial and error what combinations work.

Getting Americans out of their set cooking ways to add coconut milk or lemon grass to stew, or tropical fruit salsa to fish might not be that difficult, contends Carpenter. “Even McDonald’s has Chinese chicken salad,” he says.

The ingredients are there; it’s just a matter of convincing home cooks to think on their feet, to open their refrigerator or cupboard door and envision the endless combinations.

These recipes from the “Fusion Food Cookbook” can help give hesitant cooks a push in the right direction.

East West Marinade

This marinade can be used for grilled vegetables and meats.

6 cloves garlic, finely minced

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger

Grated zest from 2 limes

Juice from 2 limes

1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

3 scallions, minced

5 serrano chiles, stemmed and minced (including seeds)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup dry sherry

1/4 cup oyster sauce

1/4 cup thin soy sauce

1/4 cup honey

1 tablespoon Asian chile sauce

Combine all ingredients thoroughly in a noncorrosive bowl. Marinate desired food about 2 hours.

Yield: About 3 cups.

Candied Walnut Salad with Goat Cheese and Herb and Walnut Oil Salad Dressing

This salad offers a blend of France and Asia.

Salad:

1 pound walnut halves

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

5 cups baby lettuce greens or torn mixed lettuce greens

2 cups torn arugula leaves

1 small red bell pepper, seeded, stemmed and slivered

1 1/2 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled

Dressing:

1 small shallot, peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or basil

1/4 cup walnut oil (see note)

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons thin soy sauce

2 tablespoons white wine

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place walnuts in small saucepan and cover with hot water. Bring to a boil over high heat and let boil for 5 minutes. While boiling, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with foil and spray foil with nonstick cooking spray. When walnuts are boiled, drain immediately in colander.

Place honey, sugar, 1/4 cup water and salt in 2 1/2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add walnuts and stir until mixture becomes dry, about 4 minutes.

Transfer nuts to one of the baking sheets; spread evenly in one layer. Bake in oven until nuts turn a light mahogany color, about 12 minutes, turning nuts over every 5 minutes. Remove nuts from oven and transfer to second baking sheet to cool. When nuts are cool enough to handle, separate by hand. When cooled and separated, set aside 3/4 cup nuts for salad. Remainder may be frozen in airtight container.

Wash and pat dry lettuce. Set aside arugula, red pepper and goat cheese, separately.

To make dressing, place all ingredients in blender or processor. Blend and adjust seasonings.

To assemble, combine lettuce, arugula, red pepper and walnuts in large bowl. Add just enough dressing to lightly coat greens. Add goat cheese and toss.

Yield: 4-6 side dish servings.

Note: Walnut oil can be found in larger supermarkets in Spokane. Olive oil can be substituted.

Grilled Mahi Mahi Tacos with Tropical Fruit Salsa

This dish offers elements of Caribbean, Southwestern and Asian cooking. Another firm-fleshed fish can be substituted; the tortillas can be eliminated.

Salsa:

1/2 fresh pineapple, core and skin removed and coarsely chopped

1 ripe mango, seed and skin removed and coarsely chopped

2 scallions, minced

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce (see note)

1 teaspoon Asian or Caribbean chile sauce

Fish:

2 pounds fresh mahi mahi (or other firm-fleshed fish)

1/4 cup dry vermouth or dry sherry

1/4 cup thin soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

1/4 cup finely minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon Asian or Caribbean chile sauce

12 6-inch flour or corn tortillas

Combine all salsa ingredients in a medium bowl. Refrigerate. Salsa should be used the day it is made.

Cut mahi mahi into 4 serving pieces. Combine all remaining ingredients except tortillas in shallow bowl. Add fish and marinate at least 15 minutes, up to 2 hours.

Heat grill. Brush with oil and grill fish approximately 6 minutes a side, brushing periodically with marinade. Fish should be tender and raw color should be gone. (Fish may also be broiled in oven). Heat tortillas by wrapping in foil and warming in grill or oven for about 6 minutes.

To serve, place fish on individual plates. Spoon 1/4 salsa at room temperature across each fish. Serve with 3 tortillas per person and allow each person to assemble tacos.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Fish sauce is available in Asian markets and some larger supermarkets. Soy sauce can be substituted, but the flavor will be different.

Stir-Fried Coconut Curry Chicken with Bok Choy and Basil

This dish combines Thai-accented Asian cooking with a touch of India.

2 whole chicken breasts, boned and skinned, about 1 pounds

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1 small bunch bok choy

1 red bell pepper

5 scallions

4 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon very finely minced fresh ginger

3 tablespoons cooking oil

Stir-Fry Sauce:

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1/3 cup dry sherry

1/3 cup coconut milk

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon store-bought Indian curry paste or 1 tablespoon curry powder

Cut chicken into 1-inch wide by 1/8-inch thin rectangles. Place in bowl with sherry, hoisin sauce and sesame oil. Mix with fingers. Marinate at least 15 minutes, up to 8 hours.

Separate bok choy stalks and cut into 1-inch lengths to make 4 cups. Stem and seed red pepper and cut into 1-by-1/4-inch pieces. Cut scallions into 1/2-inch pieces. Combine garlic and ginger. Combine stir-fry sauce ingredients in a small bowl.

Heat wok over high heat, Add 2 tablespoons cooking oil. Swirl to coat wok. As it begins to smoke, add chicken and stir-fry until outside turns white, about 1 minute. Transfer chicken to platter.

Reheat wok. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add garlic-ginger mixture. Saute a few seconds. Add vegetables and stir-fry until colors brighten, about 2 minutes. Return chicken to wok. Pour on sauce. When sauce boils, adjust seasonings and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Southwestern Pasta with Grilled Vegetables and Goat Cheese

Starting with basic Italian pasta, this dish combines Southwestern and Asian spices.

2 red bell peppers, cored and seeded

3 tomatoes, cut in 1/2-inch thick slices

1 bunch asparagus, ends removed

3 ears white corn

4 scallions, ends trimmed

East West Marinade (recipe above)

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

5 cloves garlic, finely minced

4 serrano chiles, cored and minced

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

4 ounces soft goat cheese

8 ounces dry pasta

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Marinate peppers, tomatoes, asparagus, corn and scallions in marinade 1 hour. Set aside 1/2 cup marinade. Brush heated grill with oil and grill vegetables until slightly charred, about 5 minutes, brushing with marinade. Cool vegetables. Cut off corn kernels, cut other vegetables into bite-sized pieces. Refrigerate.

Cook pasta according to package directions. While cooking, heat large saute pan over high heat. Add olive oil, garlic and chiles. When garlic begins to sizzle, add grilled vegetables and stir until mixture begins to sizzle, about 5 minutes.

Add pasta, cinnamon, reserved marinade and goat cheese. Stir until ingredients are evenly combined and goat cheese is melted. Stir in cilantro. Adjust seasonings.

Yield: 4 side dish servings.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: GUIDELINES FOR CROSS-CULTURAL COOKING There are no rules for fusion food, but there are some guiding principles for cooks experimenting with cross-cultural foods and flavors: Taste as you go. Not all components are interchangeable because of flavor intensity. For instance, balsamic vinegar is stronger than other vinegars, so substitute less. Oyster sauce adds salt as well as flavor, so salt the dish last. Go for subtlety. Too many spices or ingredients may overpower a dish. Choose one flavor to highlight and use others as supporting characters. If it’s rosemary you want to taste, don’t add something like thyme - you won’t taste either. Not all foods go together. Cooking a mild fish in extra-virgin olive oil will result in a dish that tastes like olive oil. Cream sauce on stir-fried chicken doesn’t make it. Think color and texture. While new combinations of ingredients may taste great, the dish might look boring. Substitute ginger for jalapeno in chicken and you get a bland-colored dish. Replace the lost color with cilantro or parsley. Wow ‘em once. For entertaining, not every dish needs to be a knockout. Try one “wow” dish with simpler side dishes so the flavors don’t contrast. By Jan Ellen Spiegel Colorado Springs Gazette Telegraph