A Perfect End To Thanksgiving Dinner Is A Delicious Pie

When the annual responsibility of “having Thanksgiving” for my immediate family and my nearest relatives first passed on to me, I was 26, and my kitchen measured 9 feet by 14 feet. There was room for only one cook, and I was on my own.

That first Thanksgiving dinner was three hours late because the turkey took longer to cook than the time indicated on the chart. When the bird was finally tender, the hot rolls (punched down twice), sweet potatoes, corn pudding and pumpkin pie were still waiting to be baked. By the time they were done, the turkey was cold.

Thirty Thanksgivings later, the number of family members has increased, and sometimes there are 20 places at my table. I still have the same kitchen, with a grand total of 11 feet and 6-1/2 inches of counter space, including the indispensable breakfast-nook table.

There is a microwave oven in the utility room, but I still have only one regular oven. Needless to say, I worked out a routine long ago so that I can cook the feast of the year in my small kitchen without repeating the first disaster.

To make everything work smoothly, I begin cooking on Monday: washing vegetables, grinding and freezing celery and onion, making cranberry relish, breaking up stale bread for dressing, making and freezing pie crusts, and so on.

I extend my counter space by using the top of the refrigerator and the ledge of the pass-through to the dining room. A small table moved into the kitchen is placed in front of the utility room door. Everything not connected with the holiday dinner is moved out of the kitchen refrigerator to the extra refrigerator in the utility room. All decorative objects are moved to the enclosed back porch.

The traditional mince pie is baked and frozen. The giblets are cooked and ground. Chicken stock is prepared and refrigerated. The dining table is set well ahead of time and covered over with a large tablecloth.

Whatever can be done ahead of time, I do. By Thanksgiving Day, I know I can get dinner on the table, even though I have only one oven and counters the size of four trays.

To help in your own Thanksgiving Day preparations, I am sharing two pie recipes that do not require an oven: Pumpkin Chiffon Pie and Black Bottom Pie. The Fruited Mince Pie can be baked ahead and frozen, then thawed and warmed in the oven after the turkey is on the table.

I love the beautiful red color of the Cranberry-Apple Pie, which is best made that day. The Chestnut Pie is especially for my daughter-in-law, Susie, who brought chestnuts to Thanksgiving Dinner No. 30.

Pumpkin Chiffon Pie

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg or mace

3/4 cup milk

3 egg yolks, well beaten

1-1/2 cups cooked mashed pumpkin or canned pumpkin

3 egg whites

1/4 cup superfine granulated sugar

1 baked 9-inch pie shell

Whipped cream for garnish

Mix together gelatin, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in top of double boiler. Stir in milk, egg yolks and pumpkin.

Place over simmering water and cook, stirring often, until mixture is heated through, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Chill until 1 spoonful holds its shape.

Meanwhile, beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Gradually beat in superfine sugar and continue beating until very stiff.

Fold gelatin mixture into egg whites. Turn into pie shell, smoothing top. Cover and chill until firm. Garnish with whipped cream.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Black-Bottom Pie

This pie differs from other recipes because the “black bottom” is a chocolate cookie crust. Other recipes usually have a chocolate custard on the bottom, but this pie has a chocolate custard top.

Crust:

3/4 cup fine chocolate wafer crumbs

1/4 cup fine gingersnap crumbs

1/4 cup butter, melted

Filling:

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1/4 cups cold milk

1/2 cup plus 1/4 cup sugar

1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

4 egg yolks, slightly beaten

2 egg whites

1-1/2 squares unsweetened chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla

3 tablespoons rum

Topping:

1 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon sugar

Unsweetened chocolate shavings

To prepare crust, combine cookie crumbs and melted butter, mixing well. Place in 9-inch pie plate and press firmly to cover bottom and sides evenly. Chill thoroughly.

To prepare filling, soften gelatin in 1/4 cup cold milk. Mix 1/2 cup sugar, cornstarch, salt and remaining milk in top of double boiler. Cook over direct heat until mixture comes to boil. Then place over gently boiling water and continue cooking, covered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Slowly beat some hot mixture into slightly beaten egg yolks. Add egg yolk mixture to remaining hot mixture. Cook over medium to low heat 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

Divide custard into 2 parts. Add chocolate and vanilla to one part, stirring until melted and smooth.

To other half of custard, stir in softened gelatin mixture while mixture is still hot. Whip egg whites and remaining 1/4 cup sugar to make meringue. Beat in rum. Fold into gelatin-custard mixture. Cover and chill.

When partly set, pour rum custard mixture into prepared crust and refrigerate to chill further. Pour chocolate layer on top. Cover and chill overnight.

To prepare topping, whip cream until soft peaks form. Beat in sugar. Spread over chilled pie. Sprinkle chocolate shavings on top.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Fruited Mince Pie

2-2/3 cups ready-to-use fruit mincemeat or 1 (28-ounce) jar

2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped fresh pears or canned peaches (drained)

1/4 cup light rum

1/2 cup chopped pecans or English walnuts

Pastry for 9-inch pie pan, plus pastry for lattice or cut-out shapes for top of pie

Milk

Sugar

Combine mincemeat, pears, rum and pecans. Spoon into prepared pastry shell.

Top with lattice crust or with decorative rounds of pastry cut out of dough with cookie cutters (such as stars or scalloped-edge circles). Brush top of each round with a small amount of milk and sprinkle each with a little sugar to promote browning.

Bake pie at 450 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 400 degrees and bake 35 to 40 minutes longer, or until filling bubbles around edges and crust is lightly browned.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Cranberry-Apple Pie

3 cups fresh cranberries

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1-1/4 cups sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg or mace

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

3 cups peeled and sliced apples (about 5 Golden Delicious or Winesap)

Pastry for 9-inch double crust pie (pie plate about 1-1/2 inches deep)

Milk and sugar for top of crust

Coarsely chop 2 cups cranberries in food processor. Place in bowl along with tapioca, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir to combine. Add remaining 1 cup whole cranberries, nuts and apples and combine.

Spoon mixture into unbaked pastry shell. Cover with top round of pastry, into which slit or design has been cut. Seal and crimp pastry edges. Brush top of pastry with small amount of milk. Sprinkle with about 1 tablespoon sugar to enhance browning.

Bake at 400 degrees about 35 minutes or until top is browned, filling bubbles and apples are tender. Test for tenderness by inserting knife through slit in top crust. Cool and serve.

Yield: 6 large slices.

Chestnut Pie

3 egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

2/3 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon orange juice

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier

1-1/2 cups chestnut puree (see note)

2 egg whites, beaten until stiff

Freshly grated nutmeg

1 (9-inch) unbaked pie shell

Additional whipped cream for topping

Beat egg yolks well. Add sugar, cream, orange juice, liqueur and chestnut puree. Fold egg whites into chestnut mixture. Spoon mixture into pie shell. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg.

Bake at 350 degrees about 45 minutes or until center is set. Serve cold with whipped cream.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Use about 5 cups chestnuts to make 3 cups puree. Cut a cross through shell on flat side of each chestnut. Parboil nuts 10 minutes. Drain. Shell and scrape peelings from chestnuts as soon as you can handle them. Then cook peeled chestnuts in simmering water about 20 minutes longer or until tender. Drain and grind them using food processor or meat grinder.

MEMO: Marilyn Kluger is the author of four books, including “Country Kitchens Remembered.”