But What Of The Bohemians?

The French cafe, the soul of the sidewalk for more than three centuries, is fighting for survival in a society no longer willing to sit and watch the world go by.

But that’s just part of the problem. Industry insiders say 4,000 bistros a year are going bust because more French are eating fast food, shunning cigarettes and booze and simply staying home, like American couch potatoes.

Desperate cafe owners trying to put a friendly face on sometimes gruff service have even taken the extraordinary step of sending waiters to smile school.

Yet, cafes keep disappearing almost as quickly as the espresso they serve in thimble-size cups.

“When the last cafe closes, it’s the soul of the village that dies,” said Christian Couderc, owner of a suburban Paris cafe.