Crypt Lake Dayhike

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Distance: 11 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Hiking time: 4-6 hours or overnight

Season: Mid-June through Sept.

Maps: Glacier National Park-Waterton Lakes National Park by Trails Illustrated

Info: Waterton Lakes National Park Visitor Center, (403) 859-2224

HIKING TRIP NOTES

Access: From West Glacier, Mont., drive 54 miles through Glacier National Park over Logan Pass to St. Mary. (Always check at West Glacier for road conditions; alternate route is through Essex and Marias Pass.)

From St. Mary, drive 28 miles north on Highways 89 and 17 to U.S.-Canada border. Canadian Customs open 7 a.m.-10 p.m. From here, go another 20 miles, passing through Waterton Lakes National Park entrance, to Waterton Park town site. Drive by majestic Prince of Wales Hotel. Watch on right for park information center, then bear left to parking area near boat dock and marina on Waterton Lake.

Attractions: In 1981, hikers sponsored by Canada’s Herald newspapers spent a summer sampling trails throughout the country and rated this the best in Canada.

Overstated, perhaps, but great hiking nonetheless.

Ride shuttle boat across Waterton Lake to trailhead. Then hike well-graded trail from shore to views of several waterfalls and major peaks. Trail goes through natural tunnel. Crypt Lake flanked on three sides by alpine snowfields and towering rock walls, home to mountain goats. Fishing and camping available.

Comments: Costs for this hike include entry fees for Waterton and Glacier National Parks, totaling about $10 U.S. plus round-trip boat fare, about $8.50 U.S.

Boat shuttle departs July through August at 9 a.m. and 10 a.m. Picks up hikers for return to Waterton at 4 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. Early- and late-season schedules limited to 10 a.m. departure and 5:30 p.m. pickup. Boat shuttle info: (403) 859-2362.

Route clearly marked and gentle, considering elevation gain is 2,300 feet in 5-1/2 miles from trailhead to Crypt Lake at 6,500 feet. Stay on main trail going up. Take side trail along Hell Roaring Canyon on return since lower maintenance standard makes it more enjoyable going down.

Main route includes several creek crossings, tricky in high water of early season. Only season-long difficult section is just past tunnel, where trail crosses rock with 20 feet of exposure to steep terrain. Footing is good and cable bolted into rock provides security. Nevertheless, route has enough “air” to bring out latent acrophobia.

Bring insect repellent and binoculars for spotting mountain goats above Crypt Lake. U.S.-Canada border runs across top of peaks at south end of lake.

Camping allowed by permit (about $4 U.S. per night) at trailhead and at creek just before tunnel. No camping at Crypt Lake. That’s just as well, since getting backpack through 50-foot natural tunnel would be difficult - one must nearly crawl to get through it.

Park information center has updates on trail conditions, bear sightings and permit requirements. Park officials occasionally react to aggressive bears by requiring hikers to go in groups of five or more. Companions usually easy to find, since most hikers reach trailhead on shuttle boat.

Pepper spray for bear protection recommended in grizzly country. However, Canadian Customs agents confiscate pepper spray unless labels specifically say product for use on bears and makes no reference to use on humans.

Allow enough hiking time for return trip to avoid missing last boat shuttle from trailhead. Alternatives include bivouac camping or long hike around northeast end of Waterton Lake.

Similarly intriguing hike in area is Carthew-Alder trail from Cameron Lake to Waterton. Instead of boat shuttle, one can ride van to trailhead and walk back to town.

Park area first protected in 1895 before undergoing several name changes and sizes. In 1914, it was about double the size of its current 212 square miles.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Map of Crypt Lake Dayhike area

The following fields overflowed: SUPCAT = COLUMN - Routes: Classic Trips in the Inland Northwest