Slicing The Fat More Chefs Are Cutting The Calories - And Fat - From Restaurant Recipes

Maybe you’re being a good little cook at home, counting calories and cutting fat from your recipes wherever you can.

But when you go out to a restaurant to eat, it could be a different story.

When they’re paying good money for a meal, diners don’t always have health as a high priority.

“We still typically find people here to splurge, throw out what they’ve been doing,” says Curtis Smith, chef at Beverly’s in The Coeur d’Alene Resort.

And chefs used to creating mouthwatering culinary masterpieces aren’t necessarily inclined to rebuild their menus around broccoli, rice and beans.

“Unless chefs have gone to school in the past five years, they’ve been trained in classical presentation,” says Robb White, executive chef at the Spokane Country Club.

Things are starting to change. More than half of the 500 restaurants across the country surveyed by Visa reported adding low-fat entrees to their menus in the past five years. The West was highest, at 64 percent.

Locally, 35 restaurants participate in The Heart Institute of Spokane’s “Lite ‘n Hearty” program, offering specially marked menu items that derive the recommended 30 percent or less of calories from fat.

And 25 area chefs have signed up for the second annual “A Heart Act to Follow” benefit dinner to raise money for Heart Institute programs, up from 17 last year.

During the dinner, March 15 at the Ridpath Hotel, each chef will prepare a gourmet meal for a table of 10 diners, who pay $100 per person for the privilege. Again, the 30 percent fat calorie limit is in effect.

“It shows that we can do some really high-quality food that’s low-fat and healthy,” says Nick Wood, who just opened the Healthy Heart Cafe in the Sta-Fit health club in downtown Spokane.

Wood started his career as a chef, then became a dietitian and worked at Sacred Heart Medical Center, where he taught low-fat cooking classes.

He’s seen a change in people’s attitudes, from the faddish “I’m going to try this new diet” to the more general “I’m going to eat a little healthier.”

“They’re not dieting to be thin, they’re eating better to be healthy,” Wood says.

And low-fat cooking has come a long way, says Rod Jessick, executive chef for all Coeur d’Alene Resort restaurants.

“Ten years ago, a grilled chicken dish would maybe have some Dijon mustard,” Jessick says. “Now, there are all kinds of interesting flavors.”

For example, the Citrus Grilled Chicken at Beverly’s is marinated in orange, lemon and lime juices, honey and herbs and topped with a fresh mango chutney.

Beverly’s chef Smith says diners have come to expect more from low-fat preparations. “You have to rise to the occasion more than you used to,” he says. “You really have to wow them, not just meet their basic needs.”

White’s country club clientele tends to come from an older generation that grew up on meat and potatoes, and plenty of it. But one of every four items on his new menu will meet the 30 percent fat limit.

“A lot of club members didn’t want lower-fat dishes,” says White, who’s married to a dietitian and previously cooked at the Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center in Idaho Falls. “They thought they were going to be dry, not a lot of flavor. It’s a challenge to please these people. When they’re happy, I know I’ve done my job well.”

The chefs, along with Heart Institute dietitian Patty Seebeck, offer these heart-healthy tips for home cooks:

Don’t cut so much fat that you’re punishing your palate. People usually can stick with a diet of 20-25 percent fat calories, Seebeck says, but below that it seems like a sacrifice.

Olive oil may be better for your heart than butter because it contains no artery-clogging saturated fats, but don’t use it by the bucket. It still has as much total fat and calories per tablespoon as butter.

Wood likes to use flavored oils, such as garlic, herb or hot pepper. “You can use very little and get a tremendous amount of flavor,” he says.

Learn to appreciate reduced-fat and non-fat ingredients, such as sour cream, accepting that they’re different from the full-fat versions.

Seebeck suggests using a blend of three-fourths nonfat cheese and onefourth of a flavorful cheese such as Parmesan, feta or sharp Cheddar. “The nonfat cheese will pick up the taste of the others,” she says.

But beware of processed fat-free products such as cookies, where the fat is generally replaced by sugar. “You see people eating less fat and consuming more calories,” Wood says.

Use commercial egg substitutes to cut cholesterol, or two whites in place of a whole egg. That works for up to 10 total eggs in a recipe, says Seebeck.

Chicken and fish typically are leaner than beef, but they’re more porous, meaning they soak up fats. Saute them in wine, fruit juices or broth.

White uses homemade vegetable broth for stir-frying. “The vegetables retain a lot better color and it has a lot better flavor to it,” he says.

Beef fits into a low-fat diet if you choose the leanest cuts: eye of round, top round, round tip, top sirloin, top loin and tenderloin. They’re cheaper than fattier cuts but need to be marinated in mixtures containing acids, such as vinegars and citrus juices, to tenderize them and to add flavor. Be sure to trim any visible fat first.

While marinade recipes traditionally call for lots of oil, you can get by with little or none, says Smith. After marinating, he says, “You can wipe off what’s left and still have the flavor.”

White likes to coat meats with mixtures of dried spices, known as rubs, before roasting: “It creates a nice crust, seals in juices.”

Think of meat as a condiment, as suggested by the Food Guide Pyramid: heavy at its base with grains, vegetables and fruits, with meats, fats and dairy in smaller amounts at the top. “Just take that picture and put it right on your plate,” Smith says.

Presentation is important, Wood adds: “With a smaller steak, you slice it and fan it out and it looks like a lot more.”

Along with percentage of fat, pay attention to total calories, something Wood says many chefs fail to consider. “You go to a restaurant and get these enormous portions,” he says. “They may be low-fat, but they’re chock-full of calories.”

Smaller portions can be just as satisfying if you don’t wolf them down. At home, Smith and his wife have made a game out of taking 30 seconds between bites. “If you eat slower, you feel fuller,” he says.

Salmon on Lavosh

This was Nick Wood’s appetizer at last year’s “A Heart Act to Follow” dinner.

1/2 pound salmon fillet

2 cloves garlic

1 cup fat-free cream cheese

1/2 teaspoon coarse-ground mustard

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Lavosh cracker bread (look in the cracker section of supermarkets)

Poach salmon in water or your favorite poaching liquid recipe until done, about 5 minutes. Flake with a fork, place in refrigerator and chill (this may be done 1 day in advance).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a small baking pan, roast garlic until browned; remove and peel. Place garlic in food processor along with cream cheese, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Process until smooth.

Break lavosh into pieces about 1-1/2 inches by 2 inches. Place about 2 teaspoons of the cream cheese mixture on each piece; top with a small fork full of flaked salmon. Chill before serving, if desired.

Yield: About 25 appetizers.

Nutrition information per appetizer: 41 calories, 0.7 grams fat (18 percent fat calories).

Peking Salad

Robb White served this Asian-accented lunch to fellow chefs at a workshop to prepare for this year’s “A Heart Act to Follow.”

Peking marinade:

3/4 cup hoisin sauce (see note)

1/4 cup minced garlic

1/4 cup grated ginger

2 tablespoons Chinese five-spice powder (see note)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1-1/2 teaspoons black pepper

Plum vinaigrette:

3/4 cup honey

3/4 cup lime juice

1/2 cup plum sauce (see note)

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1-1/2 tablespoons grated ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/3 cup safflower oil

1-1/2 tablespoons sesame oil (see note)

1-1/2 pounds top sirloin steaks

1-1/8 pounds spring lettuce mix, or other mixed greens

1/2 pound napa cabbage, sliced thin

1/2 pound red bell peppers, seeded and sliced thin

1/4 pound bean sprouts

1/4 pound green onions

3/4 cup cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

In a bowl, mix marinade ingredients together; cover and refrigerate.

Combine first 8 vinaigrette ingredients in a food processor; blend until smooth. With motor running, add safflower and sesame oils in a thin stream, and process until mixture thickens; refrigerate.

Slice steaks into 1/4-inch strips; add marinade and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours but no longer than 8 hours.

In a bowl, toss lettuce mix, napa cabbage, red pepper, bean sprouts, green onions and cilantro; cover and refrigerate.

For each serving, toss 8 ounces of greens mixture with 1/4 cup vinaigrette and mound on the center of a plate. In nonstick skillet or wok, stir-fry 4 ounces of steak strips until cooked through; stand up around base of greens. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 315 calories, 10 grams fat (28 percent fat calories).

Note: Look for hoisin sauce, five-spice powder, plum sauce and sesame oil in the Asian section of supermarkets.

Citrus Grilled Chicken

The only fat in this recipe from the Beverly’s menu is in the chicken itself. Serve with a grain or pasta for a nutritionally complete meal; chef Curtis Smith uses fragrant jasmine rice.

6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Marinade:

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/4 teaspoon anise seeds

1/2 cup honey

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 medium scallions, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh sage, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Mango chutney (see note):

1 mango, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup prepared mango chutney, pureed

1/2 teaspoon Asian hot chili paste

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

Combine chutney ingredients and refrigerate.

Toast coriander and anise seeds in 350-degree oven 8-10 minutes, until lightly brown and fragrant; cool and grind in blender. Combine with rest of marinade ingredients and pour over chicken, turning to coat; marinate 4-8 hours and drain.

Grill or broil chicken breasts over medium heat until cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Serve with mango chutney spooned on top.

Yield: 6 servings.

Note: If you can’t find mangoes, use another tropical fruit, such as papaya or pineapple. Prepared chutney can be found in the condiment section of supermarkets, and chili paste and rice wine vinegar in the Asian section.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Staff illustration by Molly Quinn