Wonder Below Zero Canadian Rockies Offer Warm Welcome To All
‘Good morning. This is your wake-up call. We’re expecting a high today of minus 23 degrees, so bundle up and have a great day.”
“Oh the weather outside is frightful,” says a popular winter song. But if you’re staying in the heart of Canada’s spectacular Rocky Mountains, winter is prime time to enjoy the great outdoors.
The crowds are gone, and a wide variety of activities provide exciting ways to keep warm. That 23 degrees below, by the way, is Centigrade. In Fahrenheit, that’s about minus 10, almost balmy to hear the Canadians talk - as long as there’s no wind and the sun is shining.
Being more of a summer sports enthusiast than a winter type, I decided to brave the chill and start the day with an invigorating swim in Jasper Park Lodge’s outdoor pool. A sign on the deck cautioning “slippery due to ice” looked ominous, as did the inch-thick layer of frozen crystals glistening atop the floating paddle boards. Still, the constant cloud of steam rising off the water seemed reassuring. The hotel heats the pool to 90-plus degrees so that guests can breathe in the clean air and swim surrounded by lofty mountain peaks, even in December.
Year-round hot water swimming, in fact, was the reason that this western part of Alberta, consisting of Jasper and Banff national parks, became a tourist attraction. In 1883, three Canadian Pacific Railway workers accidentally stumbled upon natural thermal springs bubbling from the base of Sulphur Mountain in the wilderness near Banff.
Before long, tourists and health-seekers began arriving. The railroad soon followed, as did grand railway hotels built in Banff and Lake Louise. To help preserve the springs, Banff was established as Canada’s first national park in 1885. The less developed Jasper, also containing mineral springs, became Canada’s largest national park in 1907.
Apart from an eye-opening swim at Jasper Park Lodge or a visit to Banff’s still active Upper Hot Springs for a bone-warming dip in the natural thermal pool (104 degrees), cold-weather activities in the Canadian Rockies call for dressing in layers and venturing out into the snow.
Take hiking, for example. In winter, it’s called canyon crawling, and you’ll need warm socks, liners and thick-soled boots for tramping over the ice and snow.
When it’s cold, crisp and clear, the conditions are perfect for a hike through the dazzling, snowy wonderland of Maligne Canyon near Jasper. The normally rushing river turns to ice, and cascading waterfalls cover the steep canyon walls with sparkling icicle curtains frozen in time. Only 16 visitors, twice a day, are allowed in the 170-foot-deep canyon. A guide leads the way to test the firmness of the ice underfoot and occasionally to chip a path with his pickax, making the footing less slippery.
In Maligne Canyon, the truly adventurous can try ice climbing up a towering frozen waterfall, the seasonal version of rock climbing. Or, you can try a cave crawl.
“You’ll like the cave,” Doug Latimer, our hiking guide assured us. “It’s above freezing inside.” Keeping the promise of warmth in mind, three of our group gingerly dropped to our bellies and wiggled our way, feet-first, into the narrow rock opening. Guided by Doug’s lamp, we were soon able to sit upright and finally to stand. Suddenly, he switched off his light, and at a distance of only 100 feet from the entrance, we were surrounded by inky blackness. True, it felt warmer inside the cave, but at that moment the spectacular, bright white winter wilderness outside seemed far more appealing.
Perhaps the most thrilling way to take in Rocky Mountain vistas is wrapped in a furry reindeer hide and tucked into a dog sled. A team of six to 10 huskies will whisk you around Lake Louise or take you for an exhilarating, roller coaster race over the wooded foothills near Kananaskis, a region of provincial mountain parks. The average speed is 10 to 20 miles per hour.
Seated inches above the snow, two of us rode in a sled commanded by a scrawny, coal-black husky named Madonna, the most unlikely looking of the team to be lead dog. Jumping and straining at her harness, her shy, reserved nature changed instantly once Connie Arsenault, our musher, released the breaks and yelled, “Go.” Madonna, along with her five eager companions, kicked up her heels and sprinted over the packed trail, obviously relishing every minute of her morning run. Connie, who owns 60 dogs and is based near Kananaskis, is one of the few mushers who lets her riders take a turn driving the sled.
A horse-drawn sleigh might be a more romantic option, particularly if there’s a full moon illuminating the snowy landscape. An evening tour around the frozen Lake Louise, surrounded by majestic peaks is certainly a prime snuggling opportunity.
Lake Louise is one of many picturesque spots that offer ice skating on the natural ice of a frozen lake. A section of the lake fronting Chateau Lake Louise is cleared for skating, and the hotel provides hot chocolate and a toasty bonfire. Each year in December, workers build an ice castle where skaters find shelter from the cold.
Anyone wanting to experience a real winter workout can do so on the vast network of cross-country ski trails. In winter, hundreds of miles of hiking trails are groomed for cross-country and range from easy to expert. Excellent instructors are available to help novices glide smoothly over the more gentle banks and snow-covered meadows. And, of course, there is always downhill skiing through champagne-light powder snow.
Lastly, for a truly old-fashioned winter activity, why not strap on a pair of snowshoes and go trekking through the woods? It’s best to take along a buddy or a local guide who is familiar with the terrain. Like most of the sports mentioned here, snowshoeing requires no previous experience and no special skills. You can sample it for an hour or take an all-day, picnic walk.
No matter which sport you choose, the chances of spotting wildlife escalate in winter, when elk, deer and bighorn sheep migrate from the alpine highlands to the valley floor in search of food. They are known to amble down the streets in town, especially when the icy roads have been sprinkled with salt. Moose, coyotes and occasionally wolves may be seen along cross-country or snowshoe trails.
When it’s 23 below and you’re outdoors experiencing Canada’s majestic Rockies, remember that you can always come in out of the cold, unbundle and enjoy the evening in a cozy lodge warming your toes in front of the blazing fire.
MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go Getting there: Calgary is the air gateway to Banff, Lake Louise and Kananaskis. Edmonton International Airport is a four-hour drive from Jasper. The parks: Jasper (4,200 square miles) and Banff National Parks (2,564 square miles) are connected by the scenic 143-mile Icefields Parkway. They are open all year, although some businesses operate only during summer months. Hotels are concentrated near the towns of Jasper, Banff and Lake Louise. Winter sports: Major hotels can arrange activities ranging from dog sledding (about $40 for 1/2 hour) to canyon hiking ($15) to skiing ($35 per lift ticket). Hotel ski shops will provide the necessary rental equipment for most sports. Staying there: Hotel rates are seasonal with bargain winter prices often 50 percent lower than in summer. Jasper Park Lodge originated in 1922 with eight wilderness bungalows. Now there are 442 rooms housed in authentic log cabins and cedar chalets that spread over 1,000 lakefront acres. A “Ski For Free” package includes lift tickets and accommodation starting at $72 (U.S.) double. The venerable 107-year old Banff Springs Hotel comes complete with thick stone walls, baronial halls and 850 rooms. New state-of-the-art spa facilities opened in 1995. The “Spa Bed & Breakfast” adds a spa treatment to the room at $194 double. Ski packages are $110. Located on the shore of its picturesque namesake, Chateau Lake Louise offers spectacular lake and mountain views from its 515 rooms. Built in 1890, the Chateau has undergone a multimillion-dollar restoration. Rates start at $142. The Lodge at Kananaskis welcomes families to its spacious, well-equipped two-story suites. There are 251 rooms in total. Room and lift tickets from $98 double. For more information: Call Canadian Pacific Hotels at (800) 828-7447 or (800) 441-1414.