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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Southwest Cuisine Heats Up At Ramada, Cools Off At Ripples

The sands have shifted on Spokane’s Southwest cuisine scene. (If you can call a couple of restaurants a scene.) One spot has dumped its spicy Southwestern fare, while another place is starting to heat up with the arrival of a new chef from Arizona.

After more than a year, Ripples on the River at Cavanaugh’s River Inn dropped its chili-infused offerings in favor of more mainstream selections. The new menu is called Northwest Signature and it spotlights specialty dishes from various Cavanaugh’s properties throughout the region.

Among the menu’s featured selections on the lunch menu is a Chinese won ton salad; a smoked ham on pumpernickel; a grilled crab sandwich and a steak Caesar sandwich. Evening offerings include pizzas made in the apple wood-burning oven; a blackberry brandy ribeye; a chicken breast baked in a Dijon mustard sauce; sauteed scampi finished with bleu cheese; and a smoked chicken pasta dish with a creamy Gouda cheese sauce.

Fans of Ripples’ Southwestern menu might be somewhat comforted to know that some of those vibrantly seasoned dishes will occasionally be featured on the restaurant’s fresh sheet.

At Remington’s, the Ramada’s fine dining restaurant, chef Bob Katzaman, a recent arrival from Arizona, has been experimenting with some Southwest specials. Eventually, he hopes to incorporate the most well-received dishes onto the regular menu.

Katzaman gives his Southwestern dishes, which feature a rainbow of dried and fresh chilis, a Pacific Rim twist. For instance, his orange-cashew chicken might sound strictly Oriental, but he uses peppers and cilantro in the marinade.

Other specials include shrimp with a smoked pepper-cheddar cheese sauce served on a blue corn tortilla and a Southwestern prime rib. For that dish, Katzaman takes a piece of prime rib and dips it in a spicy mixture that’s similar to an enchilada sauce. It’s then popped under the broiler and served with a side of pineapple salsa.

No matter how successful the Southwestern items are at Remingtons, though, the more traditional dishes will not be forgotten. Veal picatta will coexist with smoked chicken fajitas, giving diners a choice.

Paprika adds color

Paprika, the adornment for deviled eggs and heaps of mashed potatoes, is not exactly your most exciting seasoning.

But Paprika (A Little Cafe) will definitely add vibrant spice to the South Hill’s dining options.

The stylishly decorated venue, located on Grand Boulevard, across from St. John’s Cathedral, opened last week and has since been completely swamped with diners eager to sample the creations of Karla Graves.

She and her husband, Larry, are known to local gourmands from their Upstairs Downtown venture, which has since closed. The change in location has given Graves a chance to embellish the menu, but many of the old favorites from Upstairs Downtown have been left intact.

Lunch offerings include several entree-size salads, such as a grilled chicken salad with either a mango-curry dressing (which was exceptional) or a lemon-basil vinaigrette; enchiladas stuffed with pork carnitas and topped with a New Mexico chili sauce; and a pasta dish with artichoke hearts, prosciutto and pine nuts.

Among the new dinner selections are a grilled quail with a rhubarb sauce; a ribeye steak with wild mushroom ragout; and a seared sole filet with Napa cabbage, bok choy and leeks. Graves’ latest twist on the ubiquitous salmon is to pepper the fish and serve it with a roasted beet relish, an herb salad and potato ravioli. (Sounds heavenly.)

Paprika is small, so it’s essential to call for reservations. The number is 455-7545.

Chef shines monthly

II Moon’s Steve Quinones’ monthly five-course feasts have been well received by area tastebuds.

During these special meals, Quinones concocts amazing dishes with exotic (morel mushrooms) and lavish (caviar) ingredients.

The next one is Saturday, June 15, and here’s the mouthwatering menu: the first course will be a cold avocado soup garnished with caviar. The second course is abalone with a sauce spiked with lemon, peanuts and dill. That’s followed by a stuffed Cornish game hen baked in clay, which is broken open and served at your table. The fourth course is a filet mignon with a calamari-yellow pepper sauce. It’s accompanied by veggies and Mexican mashed potatoes. Dessert will be crepes suzette, prepared in the traditional, torch-it-tableside, manner.

The dinner is $65, which might seem steep, but this is like worshiping at the high altar of good eats. Call 747-6277 to save a spot.

Corned beef and cabbage year-round

With the opening of Gabby’s Irish House and Grill, you no longer have to wait until St. Paddy’s Day for a fix of corned beef.

Freshly baked Irish soda bread is served with the soups. Colcannon (a traditional mix of potatoes, cabbage and onions) is served with entrees such as the top sirloin and the Limerick Reuben is distinguished by a specially seasoned sauerkraut.

Gabby’s eclectic menu also features a Mandarin chicken salad, a cheeseburger, a couple of pasta dishes and halibut cheeks and chips.

The restaurant is located in the former Flaherty’s, but the interior has been remodeled and new owner Gail Johnson said the place has a entirely different feel.

Gabby’s serves lunch and dinner Mondays through Saturdays.

Quick bites

The Park Bench at Manito Park opens for the summer season beginning Monday.

Harry O’s has beefed up its rotisserie offerings. Baby back ribs, pork loin and turkey are now available in addition to the rotisserie-cooked chicken.

Rod Jessick, executive chef for all the Hagadone-owned restaurants, including Beverly’s, is off on a busman’s holiday to China. He will instruct chefs there on the fine art of Northwest cuisine.

Bistro’s, on 30th just off Grand, has new owners who have added some dishes, including an Oriental stir-fry and teriyaki chicken. They’ve dropped prices, too. One pasta dish has come down from $10.95 to $5.95. The restaurant is now open from 7 a.m. until 6 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and from 8:30 a.m. until 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

, DataTimes MEMO: Leslie Kelly can be contacted via e-mail at lesliek@spokesman.com or regular mail to Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210.

Leslie Kelly can be contacted via e-mail at lesliek@spokesman.com or regular mail to Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210.