Don’t Be Chicken; Fix Yourself An Omelet

I have a confession to make: Up until now, I have been a closet omeletophobe.

Considering all the elaborate cake creations I have produced, this probably sounds ridiculous. But it is, after all, the simple things that pose the greatest challenge, because they have to be perfect. And what could be more simple than an essentially two-ingredient recipe? (And more scary than realizing that there is nothing to disguise possible failure?)

French chefs understand this principle. In fact, I have heard that the traditional test for a new chef is the preparation of an omelet.

My fear actually dates back to a trauma early in my cooking education when I studied with James Beard in the 1960s. Teflon-coated pans were in their infancy and not taken seriously by real cooks.

Beard taught me to make an omelet in a tin-lined copper saute pan, shaking it back and forth on the burner with my left hand to keep the egg from sticking, while stirring the surface in little clockwise circles with my right hand to lighten the egg as it was setting - without breaking through the bottom surface, which also would cause it to stick.

He compared the skill to rubbing one’s stomach clockwise while patting the top of one’s head. Try it and you, too, will experience the brain’s reluctance to give a different instruction to each arm simultaneously. It also made me unhappy to hear the scraping of my beautiful copper pan bottom on the rough burner.

I did it, though. The omelet worked, but the process was not a joyous one and left me feeling very nervous indeed. Thereafter, when I was in the mood for eggs, I limited myself to scrambled or boiled.

Then I met Howard Helmer, omelet king of the Western world. Helmer produces omelets with such speed and skill that he has actually broken the Guinness Book world record twice, preparing 427 omelets in 30 minutes (and, if I know Howard, grinning all the while).

Helmer explains that while scrambled eggs should be rich and creamy, with wonderful thick curds resulting from the addition of milk or cream, the egg in an omelet serves as a package for a filling, so it should be prepared with water to make it light and fluffy.

High heat and an inexpensive quick-release skillet are the secrets to setting the egg quickly, making it tender and willing to slide readily from the pan.

Watching Helmer perform really did make it seem easy - and it filled me with a craving for an omelet. I decided to whip one up, according to the Helmer method, before my courage failed.

One minute later, I was enjoying a perfect omelet, light and tender with melted Cheddar/Monterey Jack cheese in the center. Since that day, I have been making omelets, without hesitation, whenever the spirit strikes.

I find a 1-egg omelet perfect for breakfast and a 2-egg omelet ideal for lunch. For a 2-egg omelet, use a 10-inch pan and 1/2 cup filling. When cooking for a crowd, the standard household ladle (8 ounces) is just the right amount of egg mixture for a 2-egg omelet.

If you do not have clarified butter on hand, use oil; do not use regular butter, as the milk solids burn when pan is adequately hot. To clarify butter, simmer it in heavy saucepan until solids drop to bottom of pan and turn gold. Strain through fine sieve (add browned solids to mashed potatoes).

Howard Helmer Yumelet For One

1 large egg

1 tablespoon water

Large pinch of salt

Pepper

1/2 teaspoon clarified butter or oil

1/4 cup shredded cheese, diced ham, vegetables, herbs or a combination

With fork, mix together egg, water, salt and pepper to taste in small bowl.

Heat 8-inch, quick-release, sloped sided omelet pan on medium-high heat until 1 drop of water will sizzle. Add clarified butter and swirl to coat pan.

Pour in egg mixture. It will start to set immediately. Quickly use inverted pancake turner to move egg mixture few inches from side of pan toward center. Tilt pan to allow some uncooked egg to run into “hole” thus created. Repeat 3 more times at even intervals around omelet. A thin layer of uncooked egg should remain on top.

Sprinkle half of surface with shredded cheese. Use pancake turner to flip other half over it to cover filling. Grasp pan handle with upturned hand and invert omelet onto serving plate.

Yield: 1 serving.

Note: Helmer likes to make a “fondue omelet” by substituting dry white wine for the water and using shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese for the filling.