The Missing Links

“Laws are like sausages,” Otto von Bismarck once said. “It’s better not to see them being made.”

Herr Otto may have been right about the laws. After all, he was a prince, and the first chancellor of the German Empire, so he probably spent a lot more time watching laws get made than I ever have.

But I have to disagree with him on the sausage thing. I’ve spent a lot of time making sausages the last few months, and they look just fine. Taste mighty good, too.

In my years of rummaging through piles of old kitchen gear at flea markets, I’ve always been drawn to the meat grinders. There is something so substantial about them. With a meat grinder and a really big knife in your kitchen, you’re prepared for pretty much anything life hurls at you.

Finally, I took the plunge at a restaurant supply store and lugged home a brand-new meat grinder - the Packard of kitchen appliances, all shiny chrome and serious weight.

Uh-oh, I thought. Now that I have it, what on earth will I do with it? After all, sausage isn’t exactly high on the list of good-for-you foods.

Then a new cookbook wandered into my life, right on the heels of the meat grinder: “Flying Sausages,” by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly (Chronicle Books). A whole book full of chicken and turkey sausages - low-fat sausages, they insist:

“You control the fat and salt levels and you decide what goes into your body (and your family’s). You can enjoy yourself, eat food that is full of flavor, and not have to worry about it.”

They didn’t add “and eat lots of sausage in the process,” but I got their point. I hauled my grinder to the counter, bolted it down and started off with a promising candidate, chicken and apple sausage. It smelled good; it looked great. When I grilled the finished links, my husband and I lapped them up and went back for more.

But the best thing was getting to use the grinder. Child of the modern age that I am, I’ve grown suspicious of appliances. I’ve been victimized by battery-powered cookie presses that jam on the first tablespoon of dough and by electric ice cream makers that turn out bowls of slush.

But the first time I turned the wooden handle on my grinder and watched its shaft make short work of a load of chicken - no fuss, no jams, no temperament - I felt a real thrill of respect. A machine that does just what it’s supposed to do. That’s not cooking, it’s craft.

Of course, I can understand if you don’t want to dash right out and drop $50 for a meat grinder. And if that were required, I wouldn’t waste your time telling you about sausage making.

Instead, you can make sausage in your food processor, according to Aidells and Kelly. They’re right - I’ve done it, and it works quite well.

Just debone the chicken or turkey thighs and cut the meat and skin into 1-inch chunks. Put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes to firm up. Then put it in the food processor in small batches, just enough to cover the blade, and pulse until it’s well ground.

Or you can just buy ground chicken and turkey and mix it with seasonings. But it’s not nearly as much fun.

“Flying Sausages” includes seven flavors of sausages, along with dishes using them. The following recipes will give you a taste. Once you get the basic technique down, you can branch out and discover your own combinations.

Chicken and Apple Sausage

1 cup apple cider

3-1/2 pounds boned chicken thighs with skin (about 4-1/2 pounds with bones), or 3-1/2 pounds ground chicken

3 ounces dried apples, chopped finely

4 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried sage

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1 chicken bouillon cube dissolved in 2 tablespoons boiling water

8 to 10 feet medium sausage casings (optional)

In small nonaluminum saucepan, boil down cider almost to a syrup, about 2 to 3 tablespoons. Cool and reserve.

If using chicken thighs, coarsely grind boned chicken and skin in meat grinder. Or cut into 1-inch pieces, place in freezer about 15 minutes, then chop coarsely in batches in food processor.

In large bowl or plastic tub, combine ground chicken with apple cider and remaining ingredients except sausage casings. Using your hands, mix thoroughly. Fry a small patty until done and taste for salt, pepper and seasonings, adjusting if necessary.

If desired, stuff sausage into casings by attaching sausage funnel to meat grinder. Or divide sausage into 7 or 8 (1/2-pound) portions, wrapping well and refrigerating or freezing until ready to use.

Yield: About 3 to 4 pounds sausage, or about 20 (5-inch) links.

Chicken and Apple Meat Loaf with Cider Gravy

1/2 pound ground turkey or extra-lean ground beef

1 pound Chicken and Apple Sausage (see recipe above)

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

1 egg

1/4 cup applesauce

1/4 cup ketchup (optional)

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Cider Gravy:

1 cup apple cider

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup chopped dried apples

Pinch of cinnamon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1/4 cup apple cider

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Put turkey or beef, sausage, bread crumbs, egg, applesauce, ketchup, Worcestershire, salt and pepper in large bowl and mix thoroughly, kneading with your hands, until everything is well blended.

Form into loaf on baking pan and bake, uncovered, 45 minutes to 1 hour (internal temperature should be 160 degrees). Slice and serve with Cider Gravy.

To make gravy, in nonaluminum saucepan boil cider and chicken stock until reduced by half. Add dried apples, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Stir in dissolved cornstarch and simmer, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Italian Turkey and Sun-Dried Tomato Sausage

4-1/2 pounds turkey thighs or legs, or 3-1/2 pounds ground turkey

3 tablespoons chopped garlic

1/3 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil

1/4 cup white wine

2 tablespoons fennel seed

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

8 to 10 feet sausage casings (optional)

Debone turkey thighs or legs, if using, saving skin. Grind meat and skin in meat grinder, or chop coarsely in food processor.

In large bowl or plastic tub, combine ground meat and all other ingredients except sausage casings. Mix thoroughly with your hands. Fry a small patty and taste for seasonings, adjusting if necessary.

If desired, stuff sausage into casings using sausage funnel attached to meat grinder. Or divide sausage into 7 or 8 (1/2-pound) portions and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.

Yield: 3-1/2 to 4 pounds sausage.

Stuffed Sausage Bread

This can be varied to use many different flavors of sausage and fillings. It makes a handy appetizer or light lunch.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus additional for baking sheet

1/2 pound Italian Turkey and Sun-Dried Tomato Sausage (see recipe above)

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped cooked potato

3/4 cup freshly shredded mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup chopped green olives

1/2 cup chopped green onions (green and white parts)

1 package frozen white bread dough, thawed, or your favorite recipe

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

In large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Brown sausage 5 minutes, stirring and breaking up as it cooks. Add chopped onion and cook 5 minutes more. Add potato and cook 1 more minute.

In large bowl, combine sausage mixture with cheeses, olives and green onions. Cool filling while you prepare dough. Follow package directions up to rolling out bread dough, or use your own bread recipe. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Divide dough in half and roll each piece into 10- by 12-inch rectangle. Brush edges with egg and water mixture and spread half the filling to within 1/2 inch of edges. Roll up dough jelly roll-style and brush seams and edges with egg mixture, pinching to seal.

Repeat with other half of dough and filling. Place on oiled baking sheet and bake until lightly browned, about 25 minutes. (It’s all right if a little filling seeps out during baking.) Let cool, slice and serve warm.

Yield: 20 to 25 slices, or 4 to 6 appetizer servings.

Chinese Black Mushroom Sausage

1 ounce (10 to 12) dried Chinese black mushrooms

2-1/4 pounds chicken thighs or 1-3/4 pounds ground chicken

2-1/4 pounds turkey thighs or legs, or 1-3/4 pounds ground turkey

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1/4 cup dark soy sauce or tamari

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger

1/2 cup finely chopped green onions (green and white parts)

1 teaspoon five-spice powder (available at Asian markets)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons sweet sherry

Cover dried mushrooms with boiling water and let stand at least 30 minutes to reconstitute. Remove from liquid and chop coarsely.

Debone chicken and turkey thighs, if using, saving skin. Coarsely chop meat, skin and mushrooms in food processor or meat grinder. If using ground meat, combine with chopped mushrooms.

In large bowl or plastic tub, combine meat and mushrooms with remaining ingredients. Mix thoroughly with your hands. Fry a small patty until done to taste for seasonings.

Divide sausage into 7 or 8 1/2-pound) portions, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.

Yield: 31/2 to 4 pounds sausage.

Savory Chinese Seafood and Sausage Dumplings

1 cup coarsely chopped seafood (see note)

2 cups (about 1/2 pound) Chinese Black Mushroom Sausage

20 to 25 wonton wrappers, preferably round

Korean Dipping Sauce (see recipe below)

In large bowl, mix together seafood and sausage.

To make dumplings, press a wonton wrapper into the curved palm of your hand. Place about 1 tablespoon filling in the middle. Dip a finger in water and moisten edges of wrapper. Using fingers of both hands, gently gather and fold sides of wrapper to make pleats, squeezing top and sides of wrapper to make sure it forms tightly around filling. Tap dumpling on flat surface so it stands upright and place on baking sheet lined with plastic wrap.

Repeat until all wrappings and filling are used. Dumplings can be made 1 hour in advance, covered tightly and refrigerated.

Place dumplings in bamboo steamer or oiled plate over boiling water in covered pot and steam until filling is firm, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately with Korean Dipping Sauce.

Yield: 20 to 25 dumplings.

Note: Use your favorite seafood or a combination, such as raw shrimp (shelled and deveined) or scallops. Make sure the seafood is very fresh.

Korean Dipping Sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar or cider vinegar

1/4 cup finely chopped green onion (white and green parts)

2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil

2 teaspoons sugar

Combine all ingredients and stir thoroughly to combine. Serve with dumplings. Will keep in refrigerator in sealed jar for 1 week.

Yield: About 3/4 cup.