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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Cruising …Seems A Perfect Way To Browse The French And Italian Riviera

Diana C. Gleasner Special To Travel

I wouldn’t know an archduke if I tripped over him, never did trust a sheik and haven’t yet hobnobbed with the Rolls Royce crowd.

Yet here I am, hanging out in the Riviera, playground of the ultra wealthy.

What am I doing here? Exploring twisting, cobbled lanes in idyllic ports of call, learning about Napoleon, sampling olive oils fresh from the pressing, promenading the Boulevard de la Croisette in Cannes. And irritating the snooty clerks in the shops of St. Tropez.

And, oh yes, I’m cruising. The Windstar folks tell passengers to think of this as our own private yacht, and I’m taking them at their word. Bring on the caviar and pour another glass of champagne. This is my Cinderella week, and I intend to make the most of it.

My favorite port of call? Portofino. No question.

We booked passage on the first tender heading for this sleepy harbor town glowing in a honeyed dawn. Lofty frescoed houses dressed in robust pastels were positively luminous. Even the clotheslines hanging from third-floor windows added to the captivating scene. No dryers in Portofino? No matter. The total effect was stunning.

Surely, a more intimate look would uncover some warts. But Portofino is one of those rare places that improves on closer inspection. We explored her narrow alleyways and strolled Lighthouse Point, refreshed by a pine-scented breeze. Sipping local wine in a friendly quayside cafe, we watched a setting sun bathe the harbor in tremulous lavender light.

Sleek yachts passed below verdant cliffs adorned with elegant villas, while women sold exquisite handmade lace in the waterside town square. No wonder so many yachtsmen consider this incandescent jewel of the Italian Riviera the “world’s most beautiful small port.”

We joined a boat tour that took us around the bend to a mighty metropolis of San Fruttuoso, population 48. The boat was a good choice; no roads connect this cloistered enclave to the rest of the world. Walking from Portofino is an option, but the trail is quite steep, and the round trip takes three hours. Without the fumes or noise of a single car, San Fruttuoso is an authentic hideaway.

Relaxing on its tiny pebble beach, we gazed out to sea. Though this is one of the finest scuba-diving spots in the Mediterranean, the sport has taken its toll. We visited San Fruttuoso’s stately 10th century abbey and paid our respects at its shrine - complete with scuba tanks - honoring deceased divers.

Portovenere, in my book, ran a close second to Portofino. Another Italian fishing village fortified to fend off a variety of ancient onslaughts, this small community has earned its right to bask peacefully in the Mediterranean sun. Its narrow streets are crammed with towering houses, some seven stories high, painted in a variety of bright hues so a returning fisherman might spot his home from afar.

The Gulf of Spezia’s praises have been sung before - by Byron, Shelley and Dante, no less - earning it the sobriquet “The Gulf of Poets.” Byron’s Grotto, with its surging surf, kids Tarzaning into the sea from a rope swing and sun worshipers sprawling on giant rocks, provided a scenic tribute to the pleasures of high summer.

To truly appreciate the resplendent setting, we headed uphill. After some tranquil moments in St. Peter’s Church (circa 1277) perched on a rocky promontory, we climbed higher to St. Lawrence’s Church and higher yet to the old castle ramparts for a sweeping view of the city and its bustling harbor.

From Portovenere, a motorcoach excursion took us to the leaning tower of Pisa, currently undergoing restoration. Engineers speculate that, if left alone, the tower will fall in the next two centuries. The Piazza de Miracoli with its renown tower, cathedral, baptistery and historical churchyard proved thoroughly fascinating.

Each port of call added something special to our week. The island of Corsica, fourth largest in the Mediterranean, offered a past almost as dramatic as its ruggedly mountainous landscape. Birthplace of Napoleon, Corsica is known today for its locally produced wines and olive oils.

High atop a mountain peak in the island’s ancient fortified town of San Antonino, we quaffed Corsican wine and sampled local specialties - small orange-flavored cakes and cubes of tasty sheep’s cheese.

Following Napoleon’s trail to Elba, where he spent his exile, the Windstar docked alongside the old walled town of Portoferraio. Local mines have added much to this town’s coffers. Shops offered dazzling selections of semiprecious stones - quartz, azurite, malachite, lapis, agate and jade. Portoferraio, we learned, means “harbor of iron.”

Despite its proximity to the Italian Riviera, the French Riviera gave off far different vibes. Much showier and less friendly, the cosmopolitan French resorts of Cannes and St. Tropez seemed hypnotized by the symbols of wealth. Nattily dressed crews manned enormous yachts, Lamborghinis impatiently growled the boulevards and elaborately coifed dogs strained at bejeweled leashes.

We ambled Cannes’ Boulevard de la Croisette lined with lush gardens and gleaming hotels. Long before Cannes hosted its internationally famous film festival, it was renown for its beautiful beaches. Today, the beaches are hidden under a forest of colorful umbrellas shielding who-knows-what celebrity.

St. Tropez, another Cote D’Azur haunt of the rich and famous, is said to be the epitome of style and elegance. Billed as a shopper’s paradise, St. Tropez boasts over 400 fashionable boutiques and galleries.

What I found were wildly inflated prices and a striking deficiency of common courtesy. Upon finding the perfect St.Tropez T-shirt to take home to my daughter, I took it to the clerk and asked how for the price in American dollars. with a sneer he declared, “I’m a salesman, not a broker.” Too bad. She would have looked great in it.

What was fun about St. Tropez was climbing around its ancient citadel, lingering over fresh seafood in a waterside cafe and watching the artists at work on the yacht-crowded pier.

Now Monaco, home port to the Windstar, was another story. The fairytale princedom that lured Grace Kelly from Hollywood embellished both the beginning and end of our cruise. We ogled the cathedral where Prince Rainier married Grace, the grand lobby of the Hotel de Paris and the opulent chandeliers of its famous casino.

Savoring a pastry in an outdoor cafe beside Monaco’s luxuriant public gardens seemed a fitting finale to our extraordinary cruise. Surely Robin Leach would have envied our spectacular setting.

And surely Mr. Leach would have approved of the Windstar as a luxurious way to browse the Riviera. With its four sails blossoming in the breeze, our “private yacht” was a full-blown beauty.

I loved afternoon tea by the pool with fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies or warm crepes Suzette. Leisurely five-course dinners of caviar, Vichyssoise, Caesar salad and rack of lamb finished off with a sinful chocolate creme brulee. And romantic evenings beneath a huge hanging moon.

As for wealth, I now have an abundance of riches - warm memories that should get me through any number of cold winter nights.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go For more information consult your professional travel agent. Windstar one-week cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from Monte Carlo, Monaco, during the summer. Per-person fares based on double occupancy are $3,995. Add $130 port charges. Inquire about Windstar’s Advance Savings Advantage Program for savings up to $999. Windstar cruises is a Holland America Line Company located at 300 Elliott Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. Star Flyer’s one-week cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from Cannes, France, during the summer. Per-person fares based on double occupancy range from $1,745 to $2,395. Add $145 port charges. Inquire about Air Add-on Rates from major U.S. cities. Star clippers, 4101 Salzedo Avenue, Coral Gables, FL 33146. Reservations (800) 442-0551. Club Med I cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from a variety of ports from May to October. Four, five and six night per person fares range from $1,200 to $2,100. Add $80 to $120 port charges. Inquire about summer specials. Club Med Sales, Inc., 40 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. (212) 977-2170.

This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go For more information consult your professional travel agent. Windstar one-week cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from Monte Carlo, Monaco, during the summer. Per-person fares based on double occupancy are $3,995. Add $130 port charges. Inquire about Windstar’s Advance Savings Advantage Program for savings up to $999. Windstar cruises is a Holland America Line Company located at 300 Elliott Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. Star Flyer’s one-week cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from Cannes, France, during the summer. Per-person fares based on double occupancy range from $1,745 to $2,395. Add $145 port charges. Inquire about Air Add-on Rates from major U.S. cities. Star clippers, 4101 Salzedo Avenue, Coral Gables, FL 33146. Reservations (800) 442-0551. Club Med I cruises of the French and Italian Rivieras depart from a variety of ports from May to October. Four, five and six night per person fares range from $1,200 to $2,100. Add $80 to $120 port charges. Inquire about summer specials. Club Med Sales, Inc., 40 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. (212) 977-2170.