Philadelphia Has Great Food, Rich History

Q. We will be driving through Pennsylvania and would like to tour Philadelphia in depth. Over and above the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, what are the historical highlights of the city? We know that it has a great Dutch and Jewish history and we would like to concentrate on both. How do we obtain literature? Also, do you have any information on bed-and-breakfasts in the area?

A. Philadelphia is a fine city to visit welcoming, clean, full of high-class attractions and great food.

I never thought I’d say that. I remember the 1950s when Independence Hall was surrounded by slummy warehouses, the Liberty Bell sat in the hall’s cramped entry, the Delaware River waterfront was a disgrace, and downtown was distinguished by graffiti, boarded-up stores and littered streets. People seemed testy, if not downright rude. It was a good example of inner city blight.

Things change.

When I went to Philadelphia for a visit in May, I found residents who try to out-brag each other about their city. Conde Nast Traveler magazine calls Philadelphia the “Friendliest City in America” as well as the best restaurant city, based on a reader poll. Traveler readers chose Le Bec Fin of Philadelphia as the best U.S. restaurant.

Rand McNally’s Places Rated Almanac chose it as the safest large American city, the best walking city, and one of the three most livable cities.

Citizen groups are busily polishing the city image. The Center City Community Service Corps, organized by business owners and tenants, vacuums downtown sidewalks daily, hoses them down monthly, removes graffiti promptly, and patrols the area to greet and help visitors. Another group, Historic Philadelphia Inc., introduced free musical theater and historic debate re-creations. Members lead low-cost guided walks through Independence National Historic Park.

Independence Hall sits in an attractive urban park surrounded by green space and spruced-up buildings. The Liberty Bell now has its own pavilion, a modern glass structure set in the park facing the Hall. Nearby, historic Society Hill, which had been decaying, has shady streets of restored or new handsome red brick town houses, small pocket parks and tucked-away gardens.

Penn’s Landing redevelopment has made the Delaware riverfront a popular place to dine, dance, stroll or attend frequent special events.

Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell are magnets, but I enjoyed visiting other places in the national park. At Franklin Court, the nation’s first post office, established by Postmaster General Benjamin Franklin, a clerk will hand-cancel your stamped postcards. Elfreth’s Alley, around the corner from the Betsy Ross House, is the oldest continuously occupied residential street in the nation.

I didn’t explore all 25 open buildings in Independence Park, but I had lunch at City Tavern. The nation’s early leaders met there to debate, eat and drink, and today’s rebuilt tavern serves authentic dishes such as Martha Washington Turkey Stew, Thomas Jefferson biscuits and George Washington ale.

Start at the park’s Visitor Center, an out-of-the-way building that tourists often miss, to see an introductory film and join a walking tour.

The National Museum of Jewish History has a special exhibit that runs now through December, titled “Art Spiegelman: The Road to Maus.” It features the author’s comic-book account of his parents’ experience in the Holocaust. The book won a special Pulitzer Prize. The museum is stunning and includes a synagogue that dates from 1740 and was active in the American Revolution. Special packages are offered in conjunction with the exhibit.

For more information about these and other sites, call the Philadelphia Visitor Center at 1-800-611-5961. Request a copy of the Official Visitors Guide, and ask about any other special package vacations. USAIR also offers discounts on flights to Philadelphia until Oct. 13.

As for B&BS, contact: Association of Bed & Breakfasts in Philadelphia, Valley Forge, Brandywine, P.O. Box 562, Valley Forge, Pa., 19481, 1-800-344-0123; and Bed & Breakfast Connection/Bed & Breakfast of Philadelphia, PO Box 21, Devon, Pa. 19333, 1-800-448-3619.