Go Ahead; Mussel In On This Delicious Meal

As a cook, I might bemoan the subtle loss of flavor that comes from farm-raised mussels. Perhaps they lack a certain briny taste and developed texture that comes from clinging to ocean rocks as waves crash against them.

But, as the chief food preparer, I love the convenience of farm-raised mussels that don’t have scraggly, tough-to-remove beards or weeks of barnacle buildup.

Farm-raised mussels are as convenient as canned tuna but a whole lot more interesting to prepare. You can steam and serve them in a garlicky broth, use them instead of clams in paella or a pasta dish, toss them with curried rice or couscous or just serve them plain with chili-accented mayonnaise.

Mussels are available fresh for most of the year (winter is prime season for West Coast mussels that often suffer microbial contamination during the summer). You’ll often find them fresh in supermarkets and in fish stores.

If you’re buying mussels for the first time, buy more than you think you’ll need; more than half the weight is in the shell, and you may have a few you’ll need to discard. A 2-pound bag isn’t too much for a twosome. Although you may be able to find shucked (shelled) mussels, those in the shell are a better buy and usually fresher.

Avoid any mussels with cracked shells. Do not eat any raw ones. When mussels are cooked, the shells open and the delicate sweet meat is available. If shells won’t open, discard the mussels.

Cooking mussels in a well-flavored liquid of wine, garlic and herbs results in delicious mussels with the least effort. The following recipe, adapted from one served in Northern California’s Domaine Chandon vineyards, will put mussel in your menu.

Mussels Steamed in White Wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 large shallot, peeled and minced

6 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds mussels, well scrubbed

1-1/2 cups dry white wine

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

Salt

1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley

Garlic Toast (recipe follows)

Combine 1 tablespoon each olive oil and butter in large skillet. Add shallot, thyme, bay leaves and black pepper and cook over medium-high heat until shallot is tender, not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add mussels and wine and cook, covered, over high heat until shells open, about 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open.

While mussels are cooking, combine remaining 1 tablespoon oil and butter in small skillet. Add garlic and saute over medium heat until tender, not browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

When mussels are done, stir in garlic mixture. Season to taste with salt and simmer 1 minute to flavor.

With spoon, pick out mussels and arrange in each of 2 deep bowls. Pour wine mixture through sieve into bowl to remove solids, then pour wine mixture over mussels. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately with Garlic Toast.

Yield: 2 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 792 calories, 36 grams fat (41 percent fat calories), 158 milligrams cholesterol, 32 grams carbohydrate, 56 grams protein, 1,441 milligrams sodium.

Garlic Toast

2 large slices rustic or sourdough bread

1 garlic clove, halved

Olive oil

Rub bread slices with garlic, then brush lightly with olive oil. Place on baking sheet. Toast under broiler 30 seconds per side or just long enough to brown.

Yield: 2 slices.

Nutrition information per serving: 104 calories, 3 grams fat (26 percent fat calories), no cholesterol, 16 grams carbohydrate, 3 grams protein, 165 milligrams sodium.

ILLUSTRATION: Photo