Belize By Boat Eco-Adventure Cruise Brings Underwater Gardens And Mayan Pyramids Within Easy Reach

We had been en route to Belize for three days, thanks to a February ice storm that paralyzed air traffic on the East Coast. Sure, we were late, but no problem. They stashed our suitcases in a 24-foot open wooden boat, and we headed off in the general direction of some ragged black clouds to find the cruise ship.

I was into my third day of wondering why I wasn’t curled up at home with a good book.

Then the sun came out. We snorkeled a reef swarming with neon fish, visited a manatee breathing hole and discovered a fresh jaguar paw print deep in the Monkey River jungle. We were swaddled in summertime. Belize came through … even if folks we mentioned our upcoming trip to hadn’t known where it was.

“The northernmost Central American country,” we would explain. “Used to be British Honduras … south of Mexico … next to Guatemala … on the Caribbean Sea.”

The next question would be, “Why Belize?”

That was easy. “The second largest barrier reef in the world, after Australia. Impressive ruins of ancient Mayan cities.” And, yes, because we’d never been there.

I did not mention what was yet to be - the startling clarity of the water, pristine beaches, luxuriant jungles, howler monkeys high in the trees, gaudy toucans soaring above and friendly people wherever we went.

The major ethnic group is Creole - African-Europeans who arrived on Belizean shores by way of other Caribbean island nations. The rest of the 180,000 population consists of Mestizos (Spanish-Indian) from nearby countries, Garifuna (African-Indian), indigenous Maya, Lebanese, Chinese, East Indians, Britons, Mennonites and a scattering of North Americans. The common denominator of all these groups seems to be a relaxed live-and-let-live approach to life.

This relaxed approach did not apply to passengers on the M/V Temptress Voyager, at least as far as morning adventures were concerned. We awoke at 5:30 a.m. sharp to a knock on the door. By 6:30 we had clambered aboard rubber dinghies to explore pristine natural areas like the Sittee or Monkey rivers. One morning we hiked through a tangled jungle. Another we craned our necks in a bird sanctuary. Why so early? That’s when the wildlife begins to stir.

Afternoons would find us snorkeling the reefs or wandering through small communities. We browsed the beachfront village of Hopkins before being treated to a bountiful lunch complete with school kids dancing for our entertainment.

Who could resist Placencia’s single sidewalk stretching from one end of town to the other and passing a wide variety of shops and hostelries ranging from Mother Ocean’s Tropical Hotel to Deb and Dave’s Last Resort? That sidewalk led eventually to Mike’s Caribbean Club, a funky watering hole at the boat harbor advertising “cheap drinks.”

Our favorite island was uninhabited Laughing Bird Caye. There underwater coral gardens bloomed with seductively waving lilac sea fans and formations resembling giant bunches of bright green broccoli. The water was warm. The sun streamed through the shallows like light filtered through a cathedral’s stained glass. A solitary parrot fish drifted lazily beneath dazzling clouds of fluorescent yellow fish.

Not all the action was underwater. Fearless brown pelicans were having some sort of conference that involved much jockeying for position. Snorkelers bobbed aimlessly on the swells. An osprey kept watch from high atop a barren tree trunk. Fellow passengers paddled sea kayaks around the island or combed the beaches for shells. Some snoozed in the shade of a small grove of palms. All was definitely right with the world.

The Mayan ruins of Altun Ha near Belize City provided the highlight of our shore excursions. Our passionate Mayan guide was near tears while telling us of this astonishing civilization that began about 2000 B.C. and flourished until A.D. 1500.

Great cities with majestic temple pyramids like Altun Ha were home to a remarkable people who devised sophisticated mathematical and astronomical concepts, wrote books and crisscrossed Mesoamerica with trade routes. They were also a violent people well acquainted with human sacrifice. Why did their world collapse? Despite much speculation, no one really knows.

The Mayan people, like our guide, are still very much with us. The language lives, and not all the old practices have disappeared. Our guide told of a few Mayan men who still use a sea urchin spine to pierce their ears, tongue and penis, letting the resulting blood mix with incense smoke as an offering to the gods.

As we climbed the pyramids of Altun Ha, my thoughts focused on the Mayan people today. I thought especially about the family who came aboard the Temptress one balmy evening to play primitive stringed instruments, dance and demonstrate their weaving skills.

To a rapt audience the father related a grisly story about an angry corn god and his revenge on an unfaithful wife who had caused the entire corn crop to fail. Today’s Maya seem a universe away from the astronomers who created the incredibly accurate Mayan calendar. Would the inheritors of the great computer age someday be aboard a cruise ship explaining their folk ways to another culture? Something to ponder.

The M/V Temptress Voyager was our home-away-from-home. This 63-passenger ship offered all outside cabins with private bath, large windows and air conditioning. The ship had an affable staff who taught us to expect personal service. Every night we would put our laundry out to have it returned, no charge, the next day. Wet shoes from a jungle walk? We set our shoes by the cabin door, and they would be reappear warm and dry early the next morning.

My first impression of the dining room, with its attractive red table cloths and fresh flowers, was that it was noisy. The third day of our cruise, as I watched animated passengers sharing their day’s discoveries, it was still noisy but seemed less so.

We liked being able to sit anywhere and not having to dress for dinner. And we enjoyed the friendly open bar located beside the sun deck. No bar bill (unless you ordered foreign liquor) is an easy concept to adapt to. Meals combined American, Belizean and international dishes, often with a choice of seafood, beef or poultry entrees. I had one of the best steaks of my life on board and would like to dub the pastry chef a wizard.

But we did not come to Belize to eat. We came to see what is still a largely undiscovered country. Rich in ecosystems and cultural heritage, this small country boasts more than 4,000 species of native flowering plants, 700 trees and 500 birds as well as its thriving marine habitat.

What will stay with us are special moments - spotting the howler monkey high in the fig tree, discovering an orange iguana (called “bamboo chicken” by the natives) on a branch in front of our noses, and photographing the shy coatimundi, pet of a friendly resident of Monkey River Town.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: If you go Belize (formerly British Honduras) is a small country (about the size of New Hampshire) on the east coast of Central America on the Caribbean Sea. Belize has the largest (185 miles long) barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The country is bordered by Mexico to the north and Guatemala to the west and south. Belize is 750 miles from Miami, Houston and New Orleans. English, the official language, is widely spoken. The Belize dollar has a fixed rate of exchange of two to one US dollar. Most hotels, resorts and restaurants accept U.S. currency, traveler’s checks and credit cards. Belize’s climate is typical of the Caribbean - hot and fairly humid, with temperatures hovering in the 80s. Tropical breezes cool balmy evenings. Be sure to pack shorts, comfortable walking shoes, swim suit, insect repellent, sun glasses, sun screen, wide-brimmed hat and a small day-pack. Tevas or other durable sandals are handy for wet landings. Certified divers will want to have their C-cards and core equipment, but the ship offers rental equipment as well. Complimentary snorkel gear is available to all passengers. Recommended reading: “Adventuring in Belize” by Eric Hoffman (Sierra Club Books), and “Belize Handbook” by Chicki Mallan (Moon Publications). Temptress Voyages cost $795-$895 for 3-night cruises, $1,695-$1,895 for 7-night cruises. Prices are per person, double occupancy. For more information and/or reservations, contact Temptress Voyages U.S. Sales Office toll-free at (800) 336-8423.