Check Out Used Gear Carefully Before Buying

Q. What’s your opinion on buying used gear? As you know, there are several “gear grabs” in the Seattle area every year, and sometimes it’s kind of tough to pass up a seemingly good bargain. Is there anything you would advise staying away from (carabiners, etc.)

I really enjoy your work.

Doug Hutton

Gear Guy replies: I think you’ve grasped the crux of what I am about to say, Doug: If you’re life depends on it, think twice about it. I wouldn’t buy ropes, slings, or any “soft” climbing item used. I’d consider carabiners, camming devices or chocks, provided they look sound visually. And I’d replace all the webbing on protection devices.

Anything else, though, go for it. There are tremendous bargains to be had in used equipment. Tents, packs and other items in like-new shape often go for 50 cents on the dollar or less. I wouldn’t even shy away from sleeping bags. Launder it before you use it. And lots of folks buy boots that don’t fit and end up selling them hardly used.

Q. I was wondering if any company sells a 900-fill down bag. I know that sounds like a large amount of fill power, however, I have noticed over the past few years that bag makers have been increasing fill powers from year to year. Is it possible to see 900 or even 1000 fill in years to come? Could you predict the future for me?

Bari Watkins

Gear Guy replies: You’re right, Bari. Down-product makers have been using increasingly high fill powers. A few years ago 700-fill down was exotic; now Moonstone, Marmot and a few others are using 800-fill down. A few custom makes, like Feathered Friends, even claim to get 825-fill down on occasion.

A side note here: “Fill power” refers to the ability of down to expand, or loft. It’s measured by placing an ounce of down in a graduated cylinder, then weighting it very lightly. The down expands to fill a portion of the cylinder, usually between 500 and 800 cubic inches. The amount of fill-power down possesses is largely a function of the maturity of the geese it comes from; the older the goose, the bigger and sturdier the down clusters. We’re seeing higher fill now because some European goose growers are allowing their geese to grow older before slaughtering them for food (sorry, but it’s true) so they can get more money both for the meat and the down. 900-fill down? Not available now, and not likely in the future. There probably are limits to just how big a down cluster geese can produce. But, who knows.

Q. You talk a lot about the “suspension system” of backpacks. I really had no idea that such things existed. What exactly is this system and what does it do? What makes one system better than another? I’m just starting to get into more serious backpacking and this terminology is confusing. Thanks.

Neil Martin

Gear Guy replies: The suspension system of a pack is simply the belts and harnesses that attach the thing to your back. In general, what you’re looking for is a system that is adjustable and that distributes the load well between your shoulders and waist. A good pack also needs a sufficiently rigid frame so that it doesn’t sag when heavily loaded, a situation that will greatly reduce the suspensions effectiveness. Internal-frame packs have aluminum or carbon-fiber rods, called “stays,” that perform this function. On external-frame packs the frame itself does the same thing.

Generally, about 40 pounds seems to be the point that separates really good suspensions from mediocre ones. A high-quality pack like a Dana, Mountainsmith or Gregory will take 60 pounds or more and keep the load well-distributed and taut; lesser packs start to buckle and sway. For most folks, though, 40 pounds is plenty for a multi-day trip, so a high-priced pack really isn’t necessary. You just won’t gain the benefit of a more-exotic suspension system.

Fitting a pack is a fairly exacting art, but in general what you want to do is this: Load the pack with 30-40 pounds. Put it on with the shoulder straps loosened, then tighten the waist belt so that its comfortably snug. Now, tighten the shoulder straps and the “load lifter” straps above the shoulder buckles (these help pull the load into your back). The shoulder straps should now conform to your shoulders; if there’s a gap there, or the straps are too tight, adjust the point where the straps meet the pack. Or, go to a different-size pack.

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