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Stovetop Grill Almost As Good As Outdoors

Bev Bennett Los Angeles Times Service

It’s the middle of winter, the birds are using your grill as an ice skating rink, and you are desperate for the smoky, deep flavor of food cooked over an open fire.

Unless you want to grill in the snow, you have to improvise. Fortunately, you can get results that are almost as good as outdoors if you use a stovetop grill.

There are several on the market. Some are designed for smaller households; others fit over two burners for larger-scale cooking. For best results, choose a nonstick pan or flat grill with a grooved interior that imprints grill lines on your food. A heavy grill utensil will allow you to turn up the heat and get a great crust on your food just as if you were cooking over coals.

You’re better off grilling fish than meat, to avoid the problem of fat dripping into the fire and smoking up the house. Dark meaty tuna steaks, low in fat but full flavored, are great for stovetop grilling.

To start, make a fresh Red Pepper Relish. It can stand at room temperature for at least an hour. If your grill has the space, cook thinly sliced baking potatoes brushed with olive oil, garlic and oregano on it. If not, bake whole potatoes in the oven.

Just before you’re ready to eat, put the steaks on. In minutes you’ll have a great dinner without the frostbite.

Pan-Grilled Tuna With Red Pepper Relish

Red Pepper Relish (recipe follows)

Olive oil 2 (4-ounce) tuna steaks, 1/2 inch thick

Salt, pepper

Prepare Red Pepper Relish and set aside while preparing tuna steaks.

Brush stovetop grill pan with olive oil. Heat over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Brush olive oil on both sides of tuna steaks and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill tuna on one side 2 to 3 minutes over high heat. Ease onto second side and cook another 2 minutes or until done. Remove immediately.

Arrange 1 tuna steak on each of 2 plates. Either top with relish or serve on the side. Yield: 2 servings.

Red Pepper Relish

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium red bell pepper

1 shallot, minced

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt, pepper

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in small skillet. Add red bell pepper, shallot and red pepper flakes and saute over medium heat until pepper is tender, about 5 minutes. Add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice.

Puree mixture in food processor or blender. Remove to bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir again just before serving. Yield: About 1 cup.

Grilled Potato Slices

2 medium baking potatoes

1 garlic clove, smashed

1/2 teaspoon dried crushed oregano

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

Slice unpeeled potatoes 1/4 inch thick. Soak in cold water to cover 1 hour. Drain and pat dry.

Combine garlic, oregano and olive oil in bowl. Brush potato slices with mixture and place on preheated grill pan. Grill potatoes over medium-high heat 15 minutes. Flip potatoes over. Again brush with olive oil mixture and grill until tender, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Season with salt. Serve hot.

Yield: 2 servings.