Proper Boots Make Climb Much Easier

Q. I love my plastic Koflachs on the snow and ice, but after wearing them on a long approach to Mt. Baker (who knew the road had been closed?), I decided I would NEVER approach in them again. Since then I have approached in my Vasque Sundowners, which work OK, but carrying the extra weight up Rainier for no reason is a bummer. I am considering buying a pair of super-light boots for such occasions. Would I be crazy to do so? BTW, my Vasques are finally dead, so it is either replace them with something or use my La Sportivas (even heavier).

Greg

Gear Guy: What to use for the hike in to or out of a climb is always a problem. I have vivid memories of a 1974 climb on Mount Olympus, in Washington state. It’s a climb with a lo-o-ng approach - 18 miles or so - and on the way in we passed people heading out who all but had blood gushing from the seams in their 1970s-era, iron-stiff leather boots.

These days, I’m fortunate to have some mountain-ready boots that are comfortable enough for longish hikes, and depending on the climb, I’ll wear Salomon Adventure 9 Mountain boots, Asolo Guides or Salomon’s new Super Mountain Guide. But I wouldn’t hesitate to wear a light hiking boot for a long approach and carry the climbing boots on my pack. From the standpoint of energy consumption (yours), that scheme is probably a wash: Army studies have shown that weight on your back is easier to handle than weight on your feet. And from a comfort standpoint,you’d be miles ahead. Possibilities include One-Sport Skyline boots ($135), Nike’s Air Talus ($90), Asolo’s AFX 520s ($135), or Alpina’s new super-light Vantage ($120), which uses a cutaway plastic frame for support and to save weight.

Q. I have a 20-degree down bag and would like to have both a winter and a summer bag. I was wondering if anyone makes a down bag/liner which I could use as a summer bag and then combine it with my 20 degree bag to get a winter bag. Weight of 1.5 lbs would be good.

Dave Pearson

Gear Guy: You bet, Dave. Probably your best bet is the clever Rock Wren sleeping bag/liner from Feathered Friends. It’s a mutant parka-plus-sleeping bag that has zippered armholes and a open foot that’s closed with a drawstring. It’s a good summer or bivouac sleeping bag by itself, and is designed to add 20-25 degrees to another bag as a liner. It’s $225 in a nylon shell; $295 for Dryloft. You can reached Feathered Friends in Seattle at (206) 328-0887.

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