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Tasty Barley Salad Hearty, Satisfying

Marie Simmons Los Angeles Times Service

Barley, although an ancient grain, is relatively unknown to many Americans.

Throughout history, barley has been used in breads, to make beer or whiskey and as fodder for animals. Today, as we begin to look for other sources of nutritious grains, many cooks are discovering the good taste and versatility of barley.

Traditionally, most American cooks have thought of barley only as a thickener for soup. But this is changing; now I use it instead of rice in risotto and as a substitute for bulgur in tabbouleh. It is very good added to pilaf or simply mixed with other grains as a side dish. It is also delicious in salads.

Barley, like rice, loses its layer of bran and becomes white when it is milled. Milled barley, called pearl or polished, is available in supermarkets in either a plastic bag (usually displayed with the dried beans) or in a 1-pound box (it often simply says barley, not pearl barley).

Barley needs to cook about 45 minutes before it becomes tender. It can be made ahead and either frozen or kept refrigerated for a few days before serving. It is easy to reheat in a microwave, a covered skillet or a vegetable steamer set over boiling water.

For the following salad recipe I let the barley cook while I am preparing the other ingredients. When the barley is cooked, I drain it, rinse with cold water to cool it off and make the salad.

I combine the cooked barley with crunchy raw corn kernels, red onion, green pepper and cooked shrimp. The dressing is a tangy mixture of lime juice and jalapeno chilies. Pieces of cooked shredded or diced chicken can be used in place of the shrimp, and other vegetables such as red bell pepper, green onions or green peas can be added to the salad, if preferred.

I like to serve this hearty satisfying salad as the focal point of a salad platter with a couple of side-dish salads. Served on a bed of salad greens, it looks pretty with the shredded carrot salad and tomato salad suggested below. A garnish of fresh cilantro sprigs and basil leaves pulls all the flavor elements together. For dessert, treat yourself to some luscious bakery brownies.

Barley, Shrimp and Corn Salad With Lime and Jalapeno Dressing

I very often use good-quality frozen shelled and deveined shrimp for this salad. They are convenient and relatively inexpensive. Cooked chicken (about 2 cups diced or shredded) can be substituted for the shrimp, if desired.

1 cup pearl barley

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon minced jalapeno chili or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound cooked, shelled and deveined shrimp (fresh or frozen)

1 cup corn kernels, preferably fresh

1/2 cup peeled and diced (small 1/4-inch) seeded cucumber

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/2 cup finely chopped green bell pepper

8 large leaves of romaine or curly leaf lettuce

Tomato and Basil Salad (recipe follows)

Shredded Carrot Salad (recipe follows)

4 sprigs cilantro for garnish

4 basil leaves for garnish

Cook barley in plenty of boiling salted water until tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and cool.

Stir lime juice, vegetable oil, jalapeno chili, salt and pepper to taste in large serving bowl until blended. Add barley, shrimp, corn, cucumber, onion and green bell pepper and toss to blend. Taste and correct seasonings.

Arrange salad leaves on 4 dinner plates or 1 large platter. Mound barley salad in center. Spoon carrot and tomato salads on the side. Garnish with sprigs of cilantro and basil.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 455 calories, 17.2 grams fat (34 percent fat calories), 31 grams protein, 46 grams carbohydrate, 173 milligrams cholesterol, 448 milligrams sodium.

Tomato and Basil Salad

2 tomatoes, cored and cut into thin wedges

1/2 cup torn fresh basil leaves

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Dash salt

Combine tomatoes, basil, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and salt and toss to blend. Serve with other salads.

Yield: 4 side-dish servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 79 calories, 7 grams fat (80 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 4 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 6 milligrams sodium.

Shredded Carrot Salad

1 pound carrots, trimmed, peeled and coarsely shredded

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion tops

1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon salt

Combine carrots, cilantro and green onion tops in medium bowl.

Heat cumin in 6- to 8-inch skillet over very low heat until warm and fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in vegetable oil, lime juice and salt until blended. Pour dressing over carrot mixture and toss well. Serve with other salads.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 142 calories, 10.6 grams fat (67 percent fat calories), 2 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 572 milligrams sodium.