Make It To Go Takeout Options Reach New Level As Hard-Working Folks Try To Find Food That’s Fast And Flavorful

The burning question these days isn’t “what’s for dinner?” It’s “where should we pick something up?”

Food to go just makes sense for hard-working folks too pooped to cook. Fortunately, we’ve never before had so many takeout options.

Along with the ubiquitous meal deals at fast-food joints, the burgeoning deli sections in many supermarkets want to make your meals.

Chains such as Boston Market offer the next best thing to Mom’s grub, complete with sides of buttery mashed potatoes and casseroles that taste like they’re swimming in a sea of cream of mushroom soup.

And the increased competition among pizza purveyors has almost made it cheaper to order out than to make it at home.

In Spokane, several new spots have taken to-go meals to a new level. And a local pioneer in takeout - Lindaman’s Gourmet to Go - has been juicing up its selection with some adventurous entrees.

Here’s a look at some of the options:

Just a year ago, offering sushi at supermarkets might have seemed impossibly exotic.

Then a California-based franchise introduced the traditional Japanese finger food at a few Rosauers stores and at Huckleberry’s Fresh Markets. After initially turning up their noses, customers are now loading up on the flavored rice rolls.

“Everyone says Spokane’s behind the trends, but I think people’s minds are changing. They’re opening up to new things,” said Chad Michelbook, local manager of the Advanced Fresh Concepts Sushi Bars, a Japanese-owned company based in Compton, Calif.

He noted that in the first year, sales have grown from “practically zero” to between $20,000 and $30,000 a month.

And why not? Sushi is a low-calorie, low-fat meal that’s a great alternative to fast food, Michelbook said.

Along with the popular California roll - crab, cucumber and avocado rolled inside the seasoned rice - the house specialties include a spicy tuna roll, a shrimp roll and a variety of nigiri sushi. “Nigiri” means that the fish - whether it’s raw (called “sashimi”) or cooked - is placed atop a mound of sushi rice.

A good portion of the menu is devoted to vegetarian sushi rolls. Some of the more unusual meatless fillings are marinated shiitake mushrooms, rolled egg omelets and yellow squash.

“At least 30 to 40 percent of the customers at Huckleberry’s are vegetarians who are really happy to find something different,” Michelbook said.

The supermarket sushi bars also carry a Japanese delicacy called inari. “It’s soybean curd marinated in honey, filled with sushi rice and tucked into a wrapper and deep-fried,” he said.

Because the Spokane operation is a franchise, its supplier ships seafood directly from Asia. That helps make items more affordable, with most selections under $5.

It also addresses health concerns about eating raw fish. Because the fish is flash frozen, the growth of potentially harmful bacteria is put on ice. The fish is thawed in the cooler before being used.

“It’s still slightly frozen when we use it, which makes it easier to slice,” Michelbook said.

The rolls are prepared fresh throughout the day by employees who have been trained by experienced sushi chefs. None of it is held until the next day, said Michelbook.

Usually, having leftovers is not the problem. It’s a challenge keeping up with the demand.

“Some customers start popping them in their mouth before they’re even out of the store,” Michelbook said.

Fery Haghghi developed quite a following at the old Au Croissant Bakery, where she was as well-known for her fragrant chicken curry as her elegant French pastries.

After focusing on catering exclusively for the past few years, Haghghi has again shifted gears and opened a takeout spot at the bottom of the South Hill.

Her fare is eclectic and upscale, with the selection depending on what’s on tap with her busy catering operation. When doing a job, she’ll make extra for her to-go customers. One night it might be ravioli with mushroom sauce or stuffed grape leaves. Another time it could be low-fat meatloaf or lasagna.

“Lots of people have started calling ahead to see what we have that night,” said Haghghi, adding that she can do just about anything with advance notice.

The display case is regularly stocked with her famous chicken pasta salad, a romaine salad with feta, walnuts and red onions and a marinated vegetable salad. She also sells Fugazzi bread and desserts.

Prices range from $4.60 for a quart of soup to $9.50 for an entree, which might sound more like sit-down restaurant prices.

“It might sound like a lot, but it’s quality food and you don’t have to do anything but put it on the table and sit down to eat,” she said.

Ronald Lindler calls his to-go meals at Thai Taste - Thai Style the Asian version of take-and-bake pizza.

In other words, the preparation work is done and customers do the cooking at home.

Lindler’s wife, Nitpa, creates each dish while customers wait (or you can call ahead). She loads sturdy containers with fresh, chopped vegetables, chicken or tofu and a variety of vibrantly seasoned sauces.

The storefront operation looks a little bare inside. One case is filled with the fixings, but several sit empty.

That’s because the Lindlers - who also own the Linnie’s II restaurant - are trying to determine what their customers want.

“We’re still feeling out a new concept,” Lindler said. “No matter how we explain it, people just don’t seem to get it until they try it themselves. Then when they come back, they’re impressed.”

Here’s how it works: You pick one of the 14 items off the menu, say, the vegetables with tofu and peanut sauce. Nitpa asks if there are any veggies you’d rather skip. The choices include napa cabbage, bell peppers, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, green onions and squash.

The uncooked vegetables are packed into the container, the tofu goes on top, then the sauce is ladled on. Cooking instructions are included, but it’s simply a matter of deciding how long to microwave it.

“If you want the vegetables crunchy, cook (them for) a few minutes; if you like them softer, cook it longer,” Nitpa said.

Other sauces include a soy sauce-based mixture, sweet-and-sour and a spicy Thai curry.

Rice can be purchased separately, along with vegetable spring rolls (which must be deep-fried or baked).

While most diners at Lindaman’s settle in to eat their meals, that was far from Merrilee Lindaman’s original intention.

“I never really wanted people to eat here,” she said. In the beginning, “We only had a few tables, no microwaves. I just wanted people to be able to get Mom’s cooking and take it home.”

More than a decade later, the restaurant still features “Gourmet to Go” in its name, but most customers eat in.

Recently, though, Lindaman has started thinking about ways to attract new customers, whether they eat in or take out. A grill was added at the end of last summer, giving the kitchen a wider range of possibilities.

“It’s cleaner food, lighter with simple flavors,” Lindaman said.

One of her latest creations is a roasted vegetable Napoleon, a stack of grilled eggplant, zucchini, red onion and potatoes layered with herbed ricotta cheese.

“It looks so nice,” she said. Especially with couscous on the side.

Other recent additions include grilled ahi tuna on soba noodles or white beans, and chicken kebabs. Lindaman said she’s also toying with the idea of serving sandwiches.

“After all this time, you want to do something that hasn’t been done, to break new ground,” she said of the new offerings.

Sometimes, introducing new items is tough, though.

“People don’t like change,” Lindaman said. “They want to come in and find their favorite King Ranch chicken.”

And make that to go, please.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: 2 Color Photos

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: Where to go Here’s where to find the takeout places profiled in this story: AFC Sushi Bars: in Huckleberry’s Fresh Markets (926 S. Monroe, 624-1349 or 15510 E. Sprague, 928-3687); freshly made sushi is also delivered to the Rosauers stores on 29th, on Francis and on Division at the Y. Fery’s Catering and Takeout: 421 S. Cowley (458-5234). Thai Taste - Thai Style: 3527 E. Sprague, just west of Freya; call 534-6888 for advance orders or to check on what’s available. Lindaman’s Gourmet-to-Go: 1235 S. Grand Blvd. (838-3000); also Lindaman’s Cafe North, 6412 N. Monroe (325-6511).