Nordic Nirvana Seven Unique Destinations That Offer It All: Superior Cross-Country Skiing, Beautiful Surroundings And Nearby Accommodations
Cross-country skiing hasn’t simply evolved since gaining popularity in the early 1970s it has changed (for most purposes, read “improved”) almost beyond recognition.
Numbers, demographics, motives, equipment, clothing, techniques, terminology, cost, colors, dining, lodging, associated activities … little is the same. But this doesn’t imply the sport is any less entertaining. In fact, for most practitioners it’s even more fun.
Twenty-five years ago, people skied primarily for exercise, escape from urban pressures and a return to nature. Gear consisted of imported long wooden skis, sneakerlike shoes, bamboo poles and bindings resembling rattraps.
Clothing for the sensible skier was usually wool, worn in earthy tones of green and brown. Most of us - and by 1975, there were still only a few hundred thousand in North America - were young men in our 20s, often students. We toured the backcountry, evolving highly personal and sometimes cataclysmic styles of ascending hills, downhill control, and rising from spectacular “faceplants.”
“Skinny skiers” weren’t generally cheapskates, though a favorite description at downhill ski areas ran: “Cross-country skiers are guys who head into the woods on Friday and go home Sunday without changing either a $5 bill or their underwear.”
In fairness, there wasn’t much to spend upon. An equipment package might run $100. You could overnight in a tent or your VW camper, cooking those wonderful freeze-dried meals that tasted like many-flavored sawdust.
People tried nordic not so much to vacation as to get out in the woods, meadows and mountains - cross country was both means and end to winter pleasure. We were the cold-weather equivalent of backpacking zealots.
Changes in technology and society slowly transformed the sport. One important shift was the move from wool to form-fitting lycra - suddenly cross country became not just healthy but sexy, much as stretch pants gave alpine skiing a svelte look.
With the introduction of fiberglass and other synthetic materials, equipment became more durable, specialized, faster and often garish. (Boot colors in particular seemed selected to tweak aesthetic sensibilities.)
Sales of waxless skis grew enormously because few people had time or inclination to learn the craft of waxing for both grip and glide. Short skis were developed so first-timers could enjoy precise control on downhills.
The classic “diagonal stride” (a delightful gliding elongation of walking) was complemented by skate technique - rhythmic, exciting, dynamic and physically demanding. And the photogenic telemark turn joined a half-dozen other ways to guide rather than careen your way downhill.
Machine-groomed trails with marking and signage were once a novelty; for many folk, they’re now the norm. Oversnow vehicles and packing apparatus incised grooves in the snow to guide skis forward, conserving energy and minimizing falls. Suddenly it was possible to move with ease and enjoy winter without having to confront wilderness.
Skier numbers shot up. By the early ‘90s, there were as many as 6 million nordic enthusiasts in the U.S. Athletic young males no longer dominated the market. By 1995, 60 percent of cross-country ski area visitors were women.
The sport grew popular among people between 30 and 60 - sensible folk who enjoyed skiing for its social attractions rather than building muscle mass and aerobic fitness.
Professionals came to outnumber students; families brought their children; small groups enjoyed the sport as much as loners.
Expenses have climbed, but not extraordinarily so. That $100 package is occasionally available, but should be avoided like Florida marshland - good equipment begins at twice the cost. Warm, versatile but pricey clothing can also be used for running, biking and hiking.
Privately operated ski areas charge a fee for enjoying groomed trails, averaging close to $10 a day in the Northwest (the public can use routes groomed by ski clubs and government agencies for nominal cost).
One of the most vivid changes is the diverse options of where to go and what to enjoy there. In addition to skiing untracked field and forest, there are hundreds of intriguing destinations across North America - inns, lodges, guest ranches, regions, communities, magnificent hotels, B&Bs, resorts, spas. Visitors can experiment with snowshoeing, dog sledding, sleigh rides, snowplay, ice climbing, ballooning, snowmobiling, ice skating, even horseback riding, while hot tubs are almost everywhere. At some spots, guests ski to their hearts’ content; at others, they mix recreation with fine dining, delightful accommodations, good company and romantic surroundings.
Washington’s Methow Valley, Lone Mountain Ranch in Montana, Mount Bachelor in Oregon and Alberta’s Chateau Lake Louise all enjoy national reputations for nordic skiing. But there are other lesser-known but terrific vacation destinations.
Here’s a selection based on 15 years of research - seven places where “quality” refers to dining, lodging, staff, setting and entertainment as much as superb skiing.
Emerald Lake Lodge
Field, British Columbia (800-663-6336). A pristine, luxurious enclave within Yoho National Park, 45 minutes west of Lake Louise.
Guests can ski 65k of forgiving trail while gazing up at the splendid Presidential Range. Routes swing on and near the lake, with a connector to the tiny town of Field. Skiing runs early December into April.
A spectacular backcountry tour goes to 1,248-foot Takkakkaw Falls, Canada’s highest.
Cabins set among stately pines neatly follow a peninsula surrounding the handsome old lodge.
Chefs specialize in unique Rocky Mountain cuisine, complemented by a fine wine cellar. Visitors can experiment with snowshoeing, ice skating, broomball, sleigh rides, dog sledding, billiards, or enjoy hot tub and sauna.
Izaak Walton Inn
Essex, Mont. (406-888-5700) Unconventional and delightful. It’s owned and managed by Lynda and Larry Vielleux, former alfalfa farmers, who have made a seamless transition to welcoming, humorous hosts.
Set on the southern edge of Glacier National Park, Izaak Walton has more than 30k of trail groomed by snowcat. It’s also the only destination in the the U.S. directly served by Amtrak; for evening arrivals, there’s night skiing and a sauna waiting.
The most prized accommodations are four renovated cabooses, each with kitchenette.
It’s a full-service nordic area, including guided ski and snowshoe tours into the park. Unlike Yellowstone, there’s no snowmobiling within Glacier. Neither are there accommodations, so it’s a quiet, intimate experience.
Season runs Thanksgiving to mid-April, with 20 feet of snow annually.
Teton Ridge Ranch
Tetonia, Idaho (208-456-2650). This area has the only trail system moving between two states. It’s also the most private winter ranch in the Rockies (capacity: 12), set on 4,000 acres on the west side of Wyoming’s towering Tetons.
The 25k trail network was designed to please both beginners and intermediates. Suites in the magnificent 10,000-square-foot lodge have their own spas, steam showers, wood stoves and mountain views.
There’s alpine skiing nearby at Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee. On site you can enjoy snowshoeing, dog sledding, sleigh rides and sporting clays. Season runs mid-December to late March, with an average 300 inches of snow.
Silver Star Mountain Resort
Silver Star Mountain, British Columbia (800-663-4431), provides an extraordinary balance of cross country and alpine skiing.
Downhillers who know Canada only in terms of Whistler and Lake Louise should think again. There’s more than 80k of trail at Silver Star and the connected Sovereign Lakes system. Some routes are extremely challenging, but it’s primarily a beginner-intermediate area.
Accommodations are pleasant (entrancing Gaslight Era architecture), dining diverse and of excellent quality, the U.S. dollar goes far indeed, and Silver Star’s staff are among the most pleasant anywhere. Season runs November into April, with more than 200 inches of snow.
Canmore Nordic Centre
Alberta (403-678-2400). This was cross country and biathlon (ski-and-shoot) site for Canada’s 1988 Winter Olympics. It’s surely the most magnificent Games site in the world.
While many trails remain world class up-and-down, rerouting has expanded the network - now 70k - and emphasized lilting Banff Trail, ideal for beginners. There’s even a 2.5k lighted trail. With the assist of snowmaking, season runs mid-November into March.
You can find good lodging and dining variety in town, moments from the Centre, with giant blocky peaks soaring above. There’s snowshoeing at the area, which also hosts the International Sled Dog Classic.
Banff’s hot springs, museums and shopping are 20 minutes away; alpine skiing at Panorama, Sunshine, Nakiska and Lake Louise is also nearby.
Rendezvous Ski Trails
West Yellowstone, Mont. (Chamber of Commerce, 406-646-7701). Next door to the “Snowmobile Capital of the World.” The area is prized by growing numbers of skinny skiers for wonderfully pleasant, sinuous trails.
The four-month season usually begins mid-November with special camps, mostly attended by elite skiers. By Dec. 15, racers have departed, leaving the trails to everyone from couples to families.
Almost every winter visitor ventures into the park to enjoy the geologic wonders and profuse wildlife (try a naturalist tour with Yellowstone AlpenGuides). Around town there’s snowshoeing, ice skating, dog sledding and the Grizzly Discovery Center.
Sun Valley
Ketchum, Idaho (Sun Valley/ Ketchum Chamber of Commerce, 800-634-3347). America’s first winter resort. Long famous for downhill skiing, today it has more than 180k of groomed routes, including North America’s greatest collection of dog trails.
Amenities include sleigh rides, ice skating, hot springs, coffee houses, art galleries, theater, power shopping and a new ski museum. Lodging and dining choices are legion, though many cross country skiers opt for B&Bs.
Local residents are devoted to cross country - you will see people of all ages, including elegantly clad grandmothers using skate technique. Trails in the valley tend to open in December and close in March; higher up at Galena Lodge, skiing can last a month longer.
Map of area
MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: About the author Jonathan Wiesel has been a cross-country ski guide and instuctor for almost 30 years. He also works as a journalist and editor, designs nordic ski areas, and is author of “Cross-Country Ski Vacations: A guide to the best resorts, lodges, and groomed trails in North American” (John Muir Publications, 800/888-7504, $15.95.)