Good Harness Crucial To Safe Climbing
Q. This winter/early spring, I’ve been introduced to the sport of climbing (both rock and ice) and I think it’s going to become my No. 2 hobby. Now, I feel it is time to buy some gear (my No. 1 hobby!). I have ice climbing boots but don’t have any rock shoes or a harness. Do you have any suggestions for a beginner all-around harness that can be used for both rock and ice? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Ben MacInnis
Gear Guy: There are a number of good all-around harnesses on the market, Ben. One of the best, in my view, is the 3-D 550 from Metolius ($57). It’s affordable, trim enough for rock, and comfortable enough for all-day wear. Plus, it has an adjustable rise for above-average fit. REI’s Spire ($49) is a great bargain in a laminated-foam harness that also works well in most conditions.
For a few bucks more, Climb High’s Solstice ($80) has buckles designed to be easily threaded when wearing gloves. Finally, Black Diamond’s Bod harness ($50) is a classic all-around design.
Any of these should work great for you, Ben. Be sure you always double-thread the buckle, and climb safely!
Q. This upcoming July, I am going on a NOLS mountaineering course up in Alaska. I need to buy an outer shell and I am not sure what to buy. At this point I am looking into the Mountain Hardwear Exposure, The North Face Kichatna, and the Moonstone Savauge. Which jacket do I buy? I also need a sleeping bag. Can you recommend a good sleeping bag for this trip? Right now, I am looking at synthetic bags in the 0-5 degree range. What sleeping bag should I get?
Andrew Brooks
Gear Guy: In all seriousness, any one of those parkas should be a good choice, Andrew. They’re all well-made, well-designed pieces. And the prices aren’t all that different - $385 for the Exposure, $380 for the Sauvage and $395 for the Kichatna. The Kichatna and Sauvage are a little lighter than the Exposure (2 lb. versus 2-1/2 lb.), but in my view, the Exposure has a bit better detailing and heftier construction.
I’ve worn an Exposure extensively, and think it’s a terrific parka. Still, taking into account price, function and design, I’d probably lean slightly toward the Sauvage, with the Exposure in second place and the Kichatna right behind. But like I say, there’s hardly a dime’s worth of difference among the three.
For a bag, I think you’re going to want something rated to at least -10. Moonstone’s Ultima 3D ($280) would be a solid choice, as would The North Face’s Dark Star 3D ($295).
I wouldn’t spring for the extra $100 or so for a DryLoft shell. The standard shell should be fine, and one attribute of synthetic fill is that it retains warmth if it gets damp.
Sounds like a good adventure. Have a great trip!
xxxx