Cinco de Mayo good reason to make salsa

Cinco de Mayo is a great excuse to indulge in exciting flavors from south of the border. And there’s no easier way to add Latin flair to simple dishes than with the kick of homemade salsa.

It can contribute exceptional and complex flavors to everything from baked chicken, roasted pork loin and grilled fish to white beans. Salsas can be stirred into chicken salad or used as a glaze for roasted meats. Added to mashed potatoes, they turn a bland side dish into a festive accompaniment, eliminating the need for fattening gravies or butter.

Rick Bayless, author of “Salsas That Cook,” (Scribner, $18), asks that we consider salsa in the same light as the versatile Chinese sauces including hoisin, garlic or soy

“It has enough body and depth to become a baking or braising sauce,” writes Bayless. “It can be stirred into favorite preparations as a flavoring ingredient — and, yes, it can be set out as a dip with a basket of chips or fresh vegetables.”

In his book, Bayless explains there are essentially three kinds of salsas: Thin, vinegary chili sauces similar to Louisiana-style hot sauces; smooth concoctions made of roasted vegetables and dried chilies; and the one we know the best, the chopped tomato, chili and cilantro relish known as pico de gallo.

Over the past decade or so, salsa as a condiment has become as common on the American table as ketchup. Yet, unlike ketchup, salsa is a delightful mixed bag of regional ingredients.

Across the United States, salsa innovations are common, from zucchini, red bell pepper and poblano salsa to roasted corn salsa topping everything from creamy soups to barbecued ribs. Fruit salsas flavored with honey, citrus and spices are good low-fat dessert toppings.

When making salsa, remember it should complement the meal. For example, a red onion-papaya salsa, a combination of very strong flavors, is best suited for pork or shrimp while the sweetness of mango-tomato salsa works better with delicate fish like grilled pompano.

To distinguish a salsa from an ordinary mixture of chopped fruit or vegetables, it’s necessary to define the basic elements. Typically, salsas are mixtures of raw and partially cooked ingredients; they contain oil, acid, cilantro, onions or garlic and some kind of heat. Flavors are juxtaposed but marry well (think lime and garlic.)

To balance the flavors with sweetness, a splash of pineapple juice or a pinch of sugar goes a long way. Roasting certain ingredients like corn and onions can mellow the flavor and add sweetness and depth.

When preparing a salsa, take care in chopping ingredients. They should be cut to a fine dice — everything should be uniform and about a one-fourth inch cube. It takes a little longer, but it’s worth it.

When the marriage of salsa ingredients is a winning combination, it not only puts zesty flavors on your table but provides bursts of vibrant colors for presentation with your strictly Mexican menu.

Salsa Roja: Red Chili Tomatillo Salsa

From Rick Bayless, “From Mexico: One Plate at a Time” (Scribner, $35).

1/2 ounce small hot dried chilies, stemmed

6 large garlic cloves, unpeeled

1 pound (10 to 12 medium-size) tomatillos, husked and rinsed

Salt

Sugar, about 1/2 teaspoon (optional)

Preheat a broiler.

In an ungreased skillet over medium heat, toast the chilies, stirring for one minute, until they are very aromatic (some will have slightly darkened spots on them). Transfer to a bowl, cover with hot water and rehydrate for 30 minutes.

In the same skillet, roast the garlic, turning regularly, until soft and blotchy-dark in places, about 15 minutes. Cool and slip off the papery skin.

Roast the tomatillos on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until soft, even blackened in spots, about five minutes on each side. Cool, then transfer the contents of the baking sheet (including any juices) to a blender or a food processor.

Finishing the salsa: Drain the chilies and add to the tomatillos along with the garlic. Puree, then scrape into a serving dish. Stir in enough water to give a spoonable consistency, usually about 1/4 cup. Season with salt, usually 1 teaspoon, and the optional sugar. Refrigerated, the salsa keeps for several days.

Note on chilies: This is one of the most versatile formulas to know, since you can go to practically any grocery store and find at least one variety of small hot dried chili. In a Mexican market (on either side of the border), the possibilities multiply quickly from the nuttiness of cascabel to the punch of arbol chilies, the peanutiness of piquin, and the smoky sweetness of red chipotles. As a rough guide, 1/2 -ounce dried chilies corresponds to six red chipotles, four tan chipotles, 16 arbols, 3 cascabels or ¼ cup piquin.

Yield: About 1 3/4 cups

Approximate nutrition per 2-ounce serving: 30 calories, less than 1 gram fat (24 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 5.3 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 74 milligrams sodium.

Smoked Vegetable Salsa

From Bon Appetit magazine, October 2002

1 1/2 pounds plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise

4 large fresh Anaheim chilies (see note), halved lengthwise, seeded

1 large onion, quartered lengthwise

1 large yellow bell pepper, quartered

1 head of garlic, top one-third cut off, head left intact

1/4 cup corn oil

2 cups hickory-wood chips, soaked in water 1 hour, drained

1 (9-inch-diameter) disposable aluminum foil pie pan

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Combine first five ingredients in large bowl. Add oil; toss gently to coat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Arrange hickory chips in foil pie pan; place directly atop coals. Allow chips to begin smoking, about 10 minutes.

Grill vegetables until tender, turning frequently, about 10 minutes for tomatoes, 20 minutes for chilies, onion, and bell pepper, and 35 minutes for garlic. Transfer vegetables to cutting board. Cool.

Remove any loosened peel from tomatoes, chilies, and bell pepper. Peel garlic. Coarsely chop all vegetables; transfer to medium bowl. Mix in cilantro and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Note: Anaheims are also known as California chilies. Available at Latin American markets and many supermarkets.

Yield: About 5 cups

Approximate nutrition per 4-ounce serving: 79 calories, 5.7 grams fat (.8 grams saturated, 61 percent fat calories), 1.3 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 66 milligrams sodium.

Toasted Corn and Cumin Salsa

From Gourmet magazine, July 2001

2 cups corn (from 3 to 4 ears)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 pound yellow tomato (1 large), chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 to 2 teaspoons chopped fresh jalapeno chili, including seeds

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 scallions, finely chopped

Cook corn in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cool 5 minutes.

Puree tomato, garlic, and jalapeno with lemon juice, cumin, and salt in a blender until smooth, then stir into corn along with scallions.

Yield: 2 1/2 cups

Approximate nutrition per 2-ounce serving: 47 calories, 1.7 grams fat (.2 grams saturated, 29 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 8 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 71 milligrams sodium.

Chipotle Pico De Gallo

From Bon Appetit magazine, March 1996

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chilies jarred in adobo sauce

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups chopped, seeded tomatoes

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Combine fresh lime juice, chipotle chilies and minced garlic in large bowl. Add chopped tomatoes, onion and fresh cilantro. Season to taste with salt. Let pico de gallo stand one hour at room temperature to allow flavors to develop.

Yield: About 3 cups

Approximate nutrition per 2-ounce serving: 18 calories, less than 1 gram fat (8 percent fat calories), less than 1 gram protein, 4 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 66 milligrams sodium.

Fiesta Salsa

From “The Holly Clegg Trim & Terrific Cookbook” (Running Press, $24.95)

2 avocados, peeled, pitted and chopped

1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered or grape tomatoes, halved

1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

1 (4-ounce) can chopped green chilies, drained

1 bunch green onions (scallions), sliced

3 tablespoons lime juice

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large bowl, carefully toss all the ingredients together.

Yield: About 3 cups salsa

Approximate nutrition per 4-ounce serving: 91 calories, 6 grams fat (1 gram saturated, 57 percent fat calories), 1.6 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 3 grams dietary fiber, 107 milligrams sodium.