Artist’s Kitchen: Tomato soup for the soul

One of my favorite memories, circa seventh-grade Christmas vacation, is of a particular meal. I was out shoveling walks on a frigid day, a service for which I charged a princely 75 cents, a dollar seemed too dear. I had just finished up at the proverbial little old lady’s and when I knocked for my six bits, I was ushered in for lunch.

It was an old home, with one of those iron furnace grates in the living room floor, and she had me warm my toes on that toasty circle while she finished the soup, sandwiches, and hot chocolate. What was it? Classic Campbell’s Tomato, of course, and grilled cheese, with Velveeta, I think. I was likely her company for the day, and she had me put on warm slippers, sit down and stay a while. The food was special, made just for me: easily one of the best lunches that I’ve ever had.

I recently realized that I’d never made tomato soup; Campbell’s still had me. However, as Christian apostle St. Paul said, “When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things.”

I came up with this recipe on my first try, the best I’ve ever had (but consider the competition). And those childish things? Not completely gone; give me a Velveeta grilled cheese, with mustard, thin slices of onion, and pepperoncinis. Oh, what the heck, I’ll keep the Campbell’s around, too – you never know when comfort is more important than anything.

Tomato Soup

3 pounds (about 12) Roma (or other) tomatoes, blanched and peeled (or canned tomatoes, low or no salt, no added seasonings)

3 large pasilla chili peppers (or 2 large green bell peppers), roasted, steamed, peeled, seeded

1 head roasted garlic (see recipe below)

6 ounces pancetta or bacon, sliced into thin, crosswise strips

1 medium onion, halved, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon rinsed capers

3 tablespoons dried oregano, crushed between palms

1 tablespoon Spanish sweet paprika

1 to 2 tablespoons honey, to taste

Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

2 to 3 cups water or homemade chicken stock

Optional: 1-2 teaspoons freshly ground chipotle chili powder, to taste

Fill a large a large stockpot about two thirds of the way with cold water. Bring to a boil on high, add tomatoes, and blanch for 3 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and let cool. Meanwhile, place peppers on a baking sheet under the broiler, and roast until blackened all over and very soft, turning occasionally. Place in a tightly closed paper bag to steam for 15 to 20 minutes.

Heat oven to 350 degrees and roast the garlic (recipe follows). Peel the tomatoes, squeezing and reserving juice from the skins, as well, and set aside. Prep the peppers, reserving any juices as you open them, and set aside. Meanwhile, heat a large saucepan to medium and add the bacon or pancetta, let cook until brown and crisp, and drain off fat. Place on paper towels to drain any remaining fat and set aside. Don’t clean the pan.

Slice onions, add olive oil to the same pan, and heat on medium high. Add onions and sauté until they begin to brown. Add a few tablespoons of water, stir to deglaze the pan, and add tomatoes and peppers. Add remaining ingredients, except the pancetta or bacon, with just one tablespoon of honey and two cups of water or stock. (Water is preferable to canned stock if you don’t have homemade.)

Bring to a boil, lower to a strong simmer, and let cook 20-30 minutes. Break up the tomatoes with a spoon or potato masher and continue to simmer 15-30 minutes. (The garlic, if still cooking, can be added anytime that it’s done.)

Cool the soup a bit in a sink of cold water and puree in batches (leave it with some texture, not totally smooth), adding more water or stock if necessary, to desired consistency. Return to a boil, reduce heat, adjust seasonings, adding more honey if you like, and add bacon and chipotle chili powder, if using.

Yield: Serves 4 as a main dish, 6-8 as a side with grilled cheese sandwiches

Approximate nutrition per serving, based on 4: 292 calories, 12 grams fat (4 grams saturated, 46 percent fat calories), 10 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrate, 15 milligrams cholesterol, 4 grams dietary fiber, 400 milligrams sodium.

Roasted Garlic

6 heads garlic

Extra virgin olive oil

Water

Kosher salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Peel away excess paper from the heads and cut off the tops. Not too much, just enough to expose the cloves. Place in a suitably-sized ovenproof dish with a lid, drizzle liberally with a good quality olive oil, add about a quarter-inch of water across the bottom of the dish, and sprinkle lightly with kosher salt.

Cover and cook one half-hour, then another, basting with oil every 10 minutes. Remove lid, add a little more water (if dry) and roast, uncovered, another 15 minutes or so, until cloves are soft and golden in color.

Yield: Serves 6 as an appetizer, or refrigerate for other uses

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.