Nature’s forces conspire once again on tomatoes

It’s déjÀ vu all over again, just like Yogi Berra said.

I like to report on what’s up in my garden now and then, and last July I wrote: “I could have gotten my tomato starts in early. By which I mean I should have gotten them in early. Then May’s wet, cool weather made that a moot point.”

Put that in spades this year, given the extra rainfall we had, followed by heat that no tomato in its right mind wants to set fruit in. (Gardening teaches you that nature really runs the show.) I was out moistening beds I planted a few days ago and finishing the transition from early greens, favas, and the like. My second plantings of beans are poking their little heads up. I also hope that sowing more mesclun under some taller plants will keep it from hollering “Too hot!” and immediately bolting.

I always allow a few volunteers, in propitious spots, and I have the usual suspects: tomatillos, tomatoes, squash, and potatoes, of dubious background. They could be my kids, of course, but they are as likely dropped in from anywhere – birds or squirrels – choosing me as foster parent.

The squash growing in the compost pile is huge, but not quite the match for another unknown, which grew more than 8 inches yesterday, and – I just checked – more than another inch since I last measured a while ago. This frivolity with volunteers doesn’t always make the most sense production-wise, but the surprises are generally fun to have around.

So here’s to the garden, however it grows. I have a couple of recipes to try the next time you have guests over to force extra zucchini on. I like to make the appetizer from freshly picked veggies. Try the shallot sauce the next time you grill burgers.

I just checked again and darned if the squash didn’t grow another inch. Send help if I’m not here next month. You’ll know what happened.

Eggplant Tapenade

8 Japanese eggplants, about 1 1/2-2 pound (or equal weight globe eggplant)

1 large roasted yellow (for color) bell pepper, chopped small

1/2 cup coarse chopped cilantro

1/4 cup pitted kalamata olives, drained

1-3 cloves chopped garlic, to taste

1 tablespoon rinsed capers

1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2-3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon sweet Spanish paprika, plus additional, for garnish

Fresh ground black pepper, to taste

Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise (or 3/4-inch thick slices if using a globe eggplant), brush with olive oil, and grill, along with the pepper, over a low fire until blackened and very soft, turning occasionally, about 20 minutes. Place blackened pepper in a small paper bag for 10 minutes or so.

Scrape the black from the pepper and the cut side of the eggplants. Don’t worry if you get it all. Scoop out flesh from the eggplants and place, along with juice from skins, in a medium bowl. Chop the pepper and cilantro and set aside.

Add next seven ingredients to a blender, and blend to desired consistency (it can be a bit lumpy), adding a little extra olive oil or lemon juice if ingredients stick.

Put in a pretty bowl. Add the chopped pepper and cilantro and stir. Adjust seasonings to taste. Sprinkle a little paprika on top for garnish. Refrigerate for at least two hours, then serve at room temperature on crackers, or in Belgian endive boats, or torn radicchio leaves.

Yield: 4-6 as an appetizer

Approximate nutrition per serving: 124 calories, 8.7 grams fat (1.2 grams saturated, 60 percent fat calories), 2 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrate, 1 milligram cholesterol, 3 grams dietary fiber, 434 milligrams sodium.

Shallot Sauce

Inspired by “James McNair Cooks Southeast Asian” (Chronicle Books, 1996)

3 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons minced garlic

3/4 cup finely chopped shallot

1/2 cup red wine

1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon hot chili peppers in oil, or minced fresh

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon hot paprika, preferably Spanish

Heat sesame oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add garlic and sauté 30 seconds, stirring constantly, then add shallots. Reduce heat to medium and cook another 4-5 minutes, until shallots are soft and translucent. Add wine and water, bring to a boil, and cook until reduced by half, another 5 minutes or so.

Add remaining ingredients, lower heat to medium low and cook, covered, 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove cover and reduce to desired consistency; it thickens when cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: About 1 cup

Approximate nutrition per serving (based on 6): 122 calories, 7 grams fat, (1 gram saturated, 49 percent fat calories), 1.5 grams protein, 11.5 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, no dietary fiber, 981 milligrams sodium.