November 15, 2006 in Food

Artist’s Kitchen: Cioppino among West’s best

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Cioppino is Seattle to me. I still vividly recall my initial trip there, long ago. I was amazed (being a Midwest boy) at the state’s diversity. Traveling west, I never imagined the scenery changes and the shift to the Cascades and rainy coast were just about beyond belief, at first sight. Never mind the Columbia Gorge.

I don’t recall whether it was then or not that I was introduced to cioppino – that wonderful garlicky, tomatoey, bell peppery concoction – but I’d never had anything like it. In any case, Seattle-style cioppino was my first introduction. A quarter century later it’s still a good bet during a cold-weather trip that I’ll stop at Pike Place Market for makings before heading home.

This version has quite a few ingredients but is really quite easy to make. It’s particularly forgiving if you wait until the end to prepare the seafood. That way, you can let the soup simmer as long as you like, with just a short time working in the kitchen before serving guests. I like to serve it with homemade croutons.

Cioppino

For the soup:

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 head minced garlic, divided

2 medium onions, chopped

1 large roasted poblano pepper

2 large green or red bell peppers, washed; 1 chopped, 1 cut into strips

2 large ribs celery, washed, thinly sliced crosswise, or chopped

1 (14-ounce) can whole or chopped tomatoes, no salt added

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, preferably not in oil, reconstituted in 1 cup water

1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice

1 1/2 cups red wine

1 teaspoon fresh ground chipotle chile, or chipotle in adobo sauce, to taste

1 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons dried tarragon, crushed between palms

1 preserved Meyer lemon, pith scraped away, blanched for 1 minute, minced and divided (or substitute juice of 1 small lemon and add Kosher salt, to taste)

For the seafood:

1 pound medium (about 41-60 count or larger) shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 pounds clams, rinsed

1 pound white fish, e.g. sole, halibut, cod, cut into bite-size pieces

1 pound King crab legs, cut into 2 inch sections, shells sliced lengthwise for easy removal

6 washed and trimmed scallions (use the green, too), sliced into about 1/2 inch pieces

1/4 cup fresh minced basil

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Heat a large saucepan on medium high and add olive oil. When very hot but not smoking, add one half of the garlic, sauté about 30 seconds, then add onions. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes, then add peppers and celery and continue to cook another 2-3 minutes. Add the canned tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes (with soaking water), wine and clam juice, along with seasonings and one half of the preserved lemon (or lemon juice, if using.) Reduce to a simmer and let cook one hour.

Meanwhile, prep the seafood, scallions and basil. Refrigerate fish, shrimp and crab until needed. (You can leave the clams in their rinse water.)

Bring the soup to a low boil. Heat a large wok to medium high and add olive oil. Add remaining garlic and sauté 30 seconds, then add the scallions and remaining preserved lemon or lemon juice and cook another minute or so. Add the basil, shrimp and fish, and sauté shrimp and fish for a minute or so before adding to soup, along with the crab legs and clams. Keep at a high simmer for a few minutes until seafood is cooked through, adjust seasonings, and serve with croutons on the side.

Yield: 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 474 calories, 11 grams fat (1.7 grams saturated, 21 percent fat calories), 53 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrate, 208 milligrams cholesterol, 4 grams dietary fiber, 1,591 milligrams sodium.

Croutons

6 ounces stale crusty, good bread (about 6 slices), torn into bite-size chunks, or sliced into cubes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

Fresh-cracked black pepper, to taste

Optional: 1 tablespoon dried herbs, e.g., basil or oregano (see note)

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Meanwhile, place bread into a large mixing bowl (big enough for both hands). Drizzle in olive oil with one hand, using other to mix. Do the same with remaining ingredients, mix thoroughly with both hands, and spread evenly on a pizza pan. (This amount just fills a 14-inch pan without crowding.) Bake for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Let cool completely and store in plastic bag or container until needed.

Note: If you know that you’re serving these with a particular dish, add a tablespoon or so of the appropriate herb, if desired, mixed in along with the other seasonings.

Yield: About 4 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 124 calories, 5 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 40 percent fat calories), 2.8 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 173 milligrams sodium.

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