Cook’s Notebook: Freezing pumpkin pie not recommended

The calendar had barely turned to October when food editor Lorie Hutson got the first call: Can I make pumpkin pie in advance and freeze it?

Judging from the replies to that query at numerous Web sites, people are freezing pumpkin pies with abandon, proclaiming success every time. Be warned, however. The practice is not recommended.

The editors of Cook’s Illustrated address this question in their current issue. Their findings suggest that freezing pumpkin pie – which has a custard base – alters the texture. In their words, the defrosted pie “took on an unappealing grainy and separated consistency.” Yum.

Even the folks at Libby, the canned pumpkin people, warn against freezing baked pumpkin pie. They suggest freezing the pie crust and pie filling separately, then defrosting both before combining and baking.

Frankly, that doesn’t sound like much of a time-saver. So, you can make your pie a day in advance, as the folks at Cook’s Illustrated suggest, or you can get off the pie train.

Pumpkin cheesecake has many things going for it. It tastes great and it freezes very well. I clipped this recipe from The Oregonian newspaper in Portland nearly a decade ago and have had much success with it. The cheesecake has a rich, pumpkin flavor and is nicely spiced. The hazelnut-graham cracker crust is a hit, too.

What I love about the recipe is that it makes two 10-inch cheesecakes, enough to feed a crowd. I usually make one for Thanksgiving then wrap the second one tightly in foil and pop it in the freezer – still in the pan – until Christmas. Talk about a time-saver.

Like many cheesecakes, it’s not light on the waistline. When I tested the recipe this past week, I made some quick substitutions to cut the fat. I used light (not nonfat) cream cheese and sour cream, and half and half instead of whipping cream. Happily, there was no discernible affect on taste or texture. I’ll print the original recipe here, but know that you can make the above substitutions as you wish.

Bo’s Pumpkin Cheesecake

Recipe from Bo’s Desserts, Portland

For the crust:

2 cups Graham cracker crumbs

3/4 cup ground toasted hazelnuts (see note)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup melted butter or margarine (1 stick)

Filling

4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese; softened

2 cups granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

8 eggs

3 cups canned pumpkin (slightly less than 1 (29-ounce) can)

To make crust: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly spray the bottom and sides of 2 (10-inch) springform pans with nonstick cooking spray. Line sides of pans with parchment or wax paper.

In a small bowl, combine graham cracker crumbs, hazelnuts, sugar and melted butter. Mix well and divide evenly between prepared pans. Press firmly over the bottom and 1/2 inch up the sides of the pans.

To make filling: In a large bowl, use a heavy-duty electric mixer to combine cream cheese, sugar and vanilla. Mix until smooth; add sour cream and whipping cream. Scrape the sides of the bowl and continue beating.

Add cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and flour. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition; beat in pumpkin.

Divide evenly between prepared pans. Bake 20 minutes, then lower oven temperature to 300 degrees and bake for another hour or until the cheesecakes feel firm to the touch. Turn oven off and let cheesecakes cool in the oven with the door slightly ajar, about 1 hour. This should prevent cracking (if a crack appears, simply blend some sour cream, powdered sugar and vanilla and spread over the top when ready to serve).

Cool, cover and refrigerate or freeze cheesecakes. Cheesecake can be made up to five days in advance, or frozen for up to two months. If frozen, unwrap and either thaw overnight in the refrigerator or at room temperature for several hours, cover with plastic wrap and store in refrigerator.

Note: To toast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts in a shallow pan and roast in a 275-degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes or until the skins crack. To remove skins, rub nuts while warm with a rough cloth.

Yield: 32 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 291 calories, 19 grams fat (10 grams saturated, 58 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 25 grams carbohydrate, 98 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 190 milligrams sodium.