September 15, 2007 in Nation/World

In Baghdad, life far from ‘ordinary’

Leila Fadel McClatchy
 
Associated Press photo

An Iraqi soldier inspects the wreckage after a car bomb attack near the Shiite Buratha mosque in northern Baghdad on Monday. The attacked killed two civilians and wounded six others. Associated Press
(Full-size photo)

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“Today, most of Baghdad’s neighborhoods are being patrolled by coalition and Iraqi forces who live among the people they protect. Many schools and markets are reopening. Citizens are coming forward with vital intelligence. Sectarian killings are down. And ordinary life is beginning to return.”– President Bush speaking Thursday

BAGHDAD – “Ordinary” isn’t a word that residents of Baghdad use to describe their lives.

Gunmen are driving people from neighborhoods in the city’s southwest. Electricity, depending on which block you live on, is available as little as two hours a day. Running water, if it’s available, is unsafe to drink.

Car bombings are down, but most residents won’t leave their neighborhoods, frightened that they’ll encounter Shiite Muslim militiamen or Sunni Muslim extremists who’ll kill them.

Some markets are reopening in the southern neighborhood of Dora under the watch of U.S. soldiers, but no one from outside the neighborhood visits.

As for schools, it’s hard to say. The school year hasn’t started yet.

Yousef al-Mousawi, a 28-year-old Shiite resident of Sadr City, told this story Friday: Two days ago, his friend Mustafa was kidnapped from his computer shop. He was later found dead, shot in the head. It wasn’t unusual. In his neighborhood – controlled by the Mahdi Army militia, loyal to cleric Muqtada al-Sadr – he sees bodies every day.

Traffic jams terrify him, he said. He was wounded by a car bomb last year and has traveled the region since for medical treatment.

“The Mahdi Army isn’t just killing Sunnis now, they are killing Shiites as well,” he said. “I go to university, I’m afraid of suicide bombers and car bombs. I come home and I’m afraid of the Mahdi Army. We’re living in fear, endless fear.”

Even grocery shopping can be risky. Jassim Mohammed, 53, a Sunni from the neighborhood of Sleikh in northern Baghdad, said he rarely left his home, let alone traveled to marketplaces throughout the city.

This week marked the start of the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast from sunup to sundown. The evening meal is a feast, and everyone wants his favorite food. But what Mohammed’s family eats is up to Abu Ahmed, the lone grocer in his neighborhood. If he’s selling okra, they eat okra stew. If he doesn’t have yogurt, they don’t eat yogurt. As a Sunni in what’s become a Shiite capital, Mohammed said, he has no choice.

“It has become a dream for us to shop from any central market,” he said. “No way can I roam freely in Baghdad. I can barely get from home to work, there are so many checkpoints manned by people I don’t trust.”

“By what standards can I consider this life ordinary?” he asked. “Would Mr. Bush consider my life normal if he knew the details? Would any American?”

Muhsin al-Ribaawi, 45, a Shiite, lives in Hurriyah, a once-mixed neighborhood in northwest Baghdad that’s been devoid of Sunnis since they were forced out in December. The change was good, Ribaawi thinks. He can travel freely through Shiite neighborhoods throughout the capital, though he never ventures into Sunni enclaves. He no longer sees as many bodies dumped on the streets. As a supervisor for roads and bridges in Baghdad, he used to encounter as many as 20 a day. “I’m so happy for that,” he said.

Still, life is hardly back to normal. Dirty and disease-ridden, the water that comes from his tap is “terrifying.”

In Saidiyah, in southwest Baghdad, Ali Mohammed, 30, a Sunni, said nearly all the stores in his neighborhood had closed as Shiite and Sunni gunmen battled to control the area. The only clinic closed three months ago. It didn’t have any medicine, anyway, he said.

A university student, he fears leaving the neighborhood because the checkpoints are manned by police commandos, units known to be rife with Shiite militiamen, who alert gunmen in civilian cars to attack suspected Sunnis. Three days ago, a father and son were killed at a checkpoint, he said.

Bush, he said, “is speaking the opposite of what’s going on on the ground.”


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