Gluten-free zone

Petit Chat bakery began operations only last July with just three employees – now there is a staff of 10. Harlow Morgan, owner, believes a main part of the bakery’s growth is due to its ample line of gluten-free goods.

“The gluten-free is growing so quickly,” says Morgan. “Frequently I get calls from people crying on the phone, saying ‘Thank you so much, I haven’t had a decent slice of bread in seven years.’ These are typical phone calls we get.”

Gluten is a protein found in many grains, the most commonly known being wheat, rye and barley. People with celiac disease cannot tolerate gluten. The autoimmune intestinal disorder prevents the normal ingestion of nutrients. Morgan was surprised to learn how many people have celiac disease – almost three million Americans, according to the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness. More are expected to be diagnosed over the next few years as awareness of the disease increases.

“I was shocked,” says Morgan. “Because almost everyone that I talked to, if I mentioned it, either they themselves, or a friend, or kid, or a neighbor has it.”

A wholesale, not a retail bakery, Petit Chat got its start at farmers’ markets. Morgan received such a huge response to her gluten-free baked goods that she quickly began supplying to area stores and restaurants.

Besides breads, Petit Chat offers pastries, pizza crusts, cakes, muffins, scones, and biscuits, all in “regular” or gluten-free. Morgan also makes allergen-free cakes that have no soy, eggs, nuts, dairy or wheat. Such goodies are possible with the many gluten-free flours now available – rice, corn, tapioca and bean, among many others. Morgan likes to use flours with protein to replace this nutrient that gluten provides. As gluten is also sticky, xanthan gum must be added for elasticity. The whole venture has been quite a learning process.

“I started having more and more people asking, ‘Is there any way you can do something gluten-free?’ I knew nothing about gluten-free baking,” says Morgan. “So I started doing some research and finding these other flours. In the process, I started finding out about all these other allergies that people are experiencing.”

She began by trying gluten-free recipes from books such as the Gluten-Free Gourmet series by Bette Hagman, and “Great Gluten-Free Baking” by Louise Blair. Morgan then returned to her old favorite recipes and experimented making them gluten-free.

“I believe that it’s absolutely possible to do really yummy, moist gluten-free breads and pastries that don’t crumble,” says Morgan. “I really believe that (people with celiac disease) shouldn’t be deprived.”

Morgan spoke to the North Idaho/Eastern Washington chapter of the Celiac Disease Foundation on her gluten-free products. She emphasized how baking appealing gluten-free goods is truly doable with all the flours that are now accessible.

Jeanne Dickson, organizer of this local chapter, said their membership numbers are rising.

“We see a good increase in our club every year. We’re being inundated. I think because doctors are finally looking for it,” says Dickson. “So we were very excited about Harlow’s talk. Our biggest question is always how do the bakeries keep the gluten-free items separate? But she carefully explained how she has a separate room and facilities.”

Dickson also expressed the club’s gratitude for tasty permissible foods.

“Harlow brought us samples. Her cinnamon toasties went so fast I didn’t even get to try one. Everyone here loves her products. They’re a real treat. She’s a blessing for us. She’s welcome here any time.”

Morgan hopes to gather all her recipes into a cookbook.

“I just want to make it as easy as possible for people,” says Morgan. “I think if you just have a few of the more specialized ingredients, like some of the flours, then pretty much everything else can be just what you’d have in your cupboard anyway. Or at least what you can buy at your regular grocery store. My goal is to make it delicious and easy.”

Morgan also hopes to teach gluten-free baking classes, and to expand the bakery as her clients increase. While her baked goods are already sold in area stores, Huckleberry’s Natural Market on the South Hill and Rosauers in north Spokane, and Fresh Abundance organic and whole foods grocery store, her biggest sales are to restaurants. And although she offers a broad array of baked goods, her biggest product is their European-style hearthstone bread.

Another nearby business offering gluten-free products is Namaste Foods from Coeur d’Alene, with their line of mixes including cookies, cakes, waffles, breads, pasta dishes and pizza crusts. All of their items are allergen-free, containing no wheat, gluten, corn, soy, potato, dairy, casein or nuts. The business started in 2000, said Michele Smith, vice president of marketing and sales, and it has interest in gluten-free goods has been rising.

“Our business has definitely grown recently,” says Smith. “We see a good increase in sales every year. I believe it’s due to the medical community becoming more aware of celiac disease.”

Celiac disease is often misdiagnosed as irritable bowel syndrome. Only lately have doctors begun to test more frequently for the ailment. The treatment is simple with no need for surgery or medicine – follow a lifetime gluten-free diet. But gluten is present in many foods, so palatable gluten-free products are appreciated by those with celiac disease.

“Our main goal is to make sure products are out there for people who need them,” says Smith.

Namaste Foods products are sold at various local stores including Fred Meyer, Huckleberry’s, Pilgrim’s Natural Foods and Fresh Abundance. The current favorites are brownies, spice cake, waffle/pancake and pizza crust.

“Although this changes with the season,” says Smith. “All our mixes are pretty popular.”

Although the increased interest in gluten-free goodies at Petit Chat has helped fuel growth, Morgan said the changing local food culture looks promising.

“I just really believe in it. And I just know that it will continue to grow. Here in Spokane the food scene is happening, it is exploding,” Morgan says. “I’ve been here four years – huge change. Foodies are moving into Spokane. The interest in seasonal, local, organic, very fresh and high quality is exploding here in Spokane.”

Morgan shared recipes for some of her gluten-free goodies:

Lemon Muffin Cakes or Loaf

For the cake:

1 cup canola oil

1 cup sugar

1 cup brown rice flour

1/4 cup potato starch

3 tablespoons tapioca flour

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon xanthan gum

2 teaspoons baking powder

4 eggs, beaten

Grated rind and juice from one lemon

For the drizzle:

1/3 cup sugar

Grated rind and juice from one lemon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease muffin tin or loaf pan. Beat or process all cake ingredients in a large bowl until smooth. Pour into tin/pan. Bake until firm and golden, about 20 minutes for cupcakes, 35 minutes for loaf. Cool on rack for 10 minutes. Mix the drizzle. Remove cakes/loaf from pan, and immediately prick top of cakes/loaf while still warm. Spoon drizzle over top of cakes or loaf. Serve.

Fabulous with ice cream or whipped topping.

Yield: 12 cupcakes or one loaf

Approximate nutrition per serving: 344 calories, 20 grams fat (2 grams saturated, 52 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 39 grams carbohydrate, 71 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 61 milligrams sodium.

Banana Date Cake

1 cup rice flour, preferably brown

1/3 cup tapioca flour

1/2 cup potato starch

2 tablespoons garbanzo beans flour

1 teaspoon xanthan gum

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons powdered egg substitute

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup canola oil

1 1/3 cups sugar

2 eggs and 1 egg white

1/2 cup milk, milk alternative, or water

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup mashed ripe bananas

1 cup chopped dates (buy whole, as pre-chopped are often coated with wheat flour)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and dust muffin tin or loaf pan with rice flour. Mix dry ingredients in medium bowl. In large bowl beat oil with sugar, eggs, liquid, lemon juice, almond extract and bananas until blended. Add dry ingredients. Mix briefly. Fold in dates. Pour into tin/pan. Bake about 20 minutes for muffins, 35 minutes for loaf. Fabulous with cream cheese or vanilla icing.

Yield: 12 cupcakes or one loaf

Approximate nutrition per serving: 327 calories, 11 grams fat (1 gram saturated, 28 percent fat calories), 3.5 grams protein, 56 grams carbohydrate, 35 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 235 milligrams sodium.

Buckwheat Bread

For the bread:

1/4 ounce package of active dry yeast

2 teaspoons sugar

1 1/4 cups warm water

1 1/4 cups buckwheat flour

1 1/4 cups brown rice flour

1 tablespoon potato starch

2 teaspoons xanthan gum

2 tablespoons powdered milk or powdered nondairy creamer

2 eggs, beaten

For the glaze:

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon milk or milk alternative

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mix yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl. Let stand for 15 minutes. Mix dry ingredients in large bowl. Pour yeast mixture into dry mixture. Add eggs and mix to form a soft dough. Knead on a surface dusted with rice flour or mix in a stand mixer for five minutes. Shape into a free-form loaf. Place onto a nongreased baking sheet lined with parchment paper or dusted with cornmeal. Cover with damp cloth and let rise in a warm place for an hour. Mix glaze, brush onto loaf. Bake 45 minutes or until golden and hollow sounding when tapped. Cool. Serve with butter and jam or slice for sandwiches.

Yield: 1 loaf

Approximate nutrition per serving: 130 calories, 2 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 15 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrate, 53 milligrams cholesterol, 2 dietary fiber, 22 milligrams sodium.