Sweeter side of canning

This is the fun part of canning class.

Jams, jellies, preserves, marmalades and other spreads are easy and fun. They make great gifts and there are almost endless possibilities.

Did I mention that they’re delicious?

They’re not foolproof. Pectin can be picky, and testing for gel sometimes feels like a guessing game.

The general rules are the same as for other canning recipes: Follow the directions carefully, add ingredients in order and process in a boiling water canner.

Here’s what you need to know to make spreads as good as anything at the supermarket and worthy of gift-giving:

Soft spreads are made from the same basic ingredients. Fruit, sugar, pectin and acid are needed.

Preparation varies a bit, but here are the most common spreads:

Butters: Made of thickened fruit pulp cooked with sugar and spices until it reaches a spreadable consistency.

Conserves: A jam-like spread that generally contains nuts, raisins and/or coconut. They’re more popular in Europe than the U.S.

Jams: Jams are made by cooking crushed or chopped fruit with sugar. The consistency is usually less firm than jelly.

Jellies: Juice strained from fruit is used to make jellies. It doesn’t contain any solid pieces of fruit and holds its shape when scooped from the jar.

Marmalades: Soft fruit spreads containing small pieces of fruit or peel suspended in a clear jelly.

Preserves: Made from small, evenly sized pieces of fruit suspended in thick or slightly gelled syrup.

Chutneys are actually pickled because they contain vinegar. Look for chutney recipes in next Wednesday’s story on pickling and sauerkraut.

Start with the best fruit. Don’t use soft, overripe fruit on the verge of mold. For the best jams and jellies, fruit should be slightly underripe or just barely ripe, which has a higher amount of natural pectin. Wash fresh fruit under cold, running water or with several changes of water. Spreads can also be made from unsweetened frozen fruit or canned fruits.

Pectin is not interchangeable in recipes. Pectin is naturally found in many fruits and is essential for proper gel formation.

Recipes that do not call for added pectin rely on the pectin naturally found in the fruit to make the gel. They have less sugar but must be cooked longer.

Tart apples, Concord grapes, sour blackberries, cranberries, currants, gooseberries, quince and sour plums are high in natural pectin. Fruits with low pectin content include: apricots, blueberries, sweet cherries, peaches, pineapple, rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries.

Commercial pectin is added to help other fruit spreads with gelling. They come in liquid and powder form and cannot be substituted for one another. Be sure to follow the recipe instructions for the type of pectin and refer to the manufacturer’s directions for use.

Also, old pectin may not gel, so new pectin should be purchased every year. Store it in a cool, dry place.

Traditional pectins require a delicate balance of sugar, fruit and pectin. So, if you’re making a reduced or no-sugar spread, simply cutting the sugar in a traditional recipe will not work.

However, using a modified pectin (those you see at the supermarket that are marked for use in low and no-sugar recipes) will work. For more details, look below in the section on “Reduced and No-Sugar Spreads.”

Acid adds flavor and helps the gel form. It also varies depending on the fruit. Lemon juice is generally added to recipes low in natural acid. One tablespoon of lemon juice per cup of fruit juice or pulp is the standard recommendation. Citric acid can be substituted for lemon juice, with 1/8 teaspoon citric acid replacing each tablespoon.

Sugar is required for gel formation. It also flavors and helps to preserve the jam. Jams and jellies made with traditional pectins contain 65 to 68 percent sugar. Both cane and beet sugar are fine.

Honey can be substituted for half of the sugar in recipes that do not call for pectin and for 1/4 of the sugar in recipes with added pectin. These spreads will have a slightly darker color and different flavor than those made with sugar.

Light corn syrup can also replace sugar. In recipes without added pectin, 1/4 of the sugar can be replaced with corn syrup. When powered pectin is used, corn syrup can replace half the sugar. In recipes calling for liquid pectin, you can replace up to 2 cups sugar with corn syrup.

Testing for gelling can be done three ways. You need only test for gelling in recipes for long-cook jams and those that do not call for added pectin.

Use a jelly or candy thermometer to see that your mixture reaches the right temperature. At sea level, it should reach 220 degrees, at 1,000 feet it should be 218 degrees, at 2,000 feet it should be 216 degrees and at 3,000 feet 214 degrees.

Use the sheet or spoon test. To do it: Dip a cool metal spoon into the boiling mixture and raise it about a foot above the pan and out of the steam. Turn the spoon so the liquid runs off the side. It is done when it forms two drops that flow together and sheet (or hang) off the edge of the spoon.

To test for gel using the freezer test, pour a small amount of boiling jelly on a plate and put it in the freezer for a few minutes. If the mixture gels, it should be done. Take the rest of the jelly off the stove while you do this test.

Low and no-sugar jams and jellies won’t be the same as their traditional counterparts. They’re softer, more tart and more opaque. Extension agents recommend experimenting with different methods to find the one you like best.

In general, it is easiest to use a modified pectin (those marked for use with low or no-sugar required at the supermarket) and follow the insert instructions.

To use non-nutrative sweeteners (saccharin, aspartame or sucralose), you must use a modified pectin. Follow the directions in the pectin package for best results.

There are other gel substitutes such as Instant Clear Gel or Quick Thick (both modified starches), and agar flakes. Recipes for those products can be found on a handout offered by Washington State University extension offices called “Fruit Spreads: Reduced and No-Sugar Options.”

Since low and no-sugar spreads are more susceptible to spoiling, they should be stored in the refrigerator. They’ll keep about three weeks. Throw them out if there is any sign of mold.

Give them a bath. Jams, jellies, marmalades and other soft spreads need to be processed in a boiling water canner. Outdated recipes may not call for processing, but it is necessary to make them shelf stable. It kills mold spores and makes a vacuum seal. Recipes from many sources are generally safe to use, although they may need added steps for processing since open kettle canning and the use of paraffin wax is no longer recommended.

Leave 1/4 inch of headspace and don’t forget to adjust processing times in recipes for altitude. Processing time must be lengthened when canning at elevations higher than 1,000 feet above sea level.

For elevations between 1,000 and 3,000 feet, add five minutes of processing time to those given in the recipes. For elevations between 3,000 and 6,000 feet, add 10 minutes. At 6,000 to 8,000 feet, add 15 minutes.

Jellied products are best if they are not stored longer than six months.

Step-by-step instructions for water bath canning were included in two previous stories in our canning series. Find them online at www.spokesman review.com/food or in the July 23 or July 30 editions in the Food section.

There are some common problems you can avoid. To reduce foaming in jams, jellies and spreads, add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of butter or margarine when cooking.

When making jelly, follow the directions for heating fruit to extract juice. Place it in a jelly bag for straining (several layers of cheesecloth in a colander also work) but be sure not to squeeze the bag. If you do, fruit fibers will cloud the juice and your jelly won’t be clear.

Jellied products are best if they are not stored longer than six months. Throw them out if they develop any signs of mold.

If your jams or jellies didn’t set, use them for syrup. Or, you can remake them. Instructions for remaking jelly and jam can be found on the Fresh Sheet blog at www.spokesmanreview. com/blogs/freshsheet.

There also are links to extension service publications on making jam and jelly and more recipes.

Blueberry Blackberry Jelly

From “175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades and Other Soft Spreads.” Author Linda Amendt offers this tip: “Buy blackberries and blueberries at the peak of the season and freeze them for later use. Frozen blueberries and blackberries make great jellies. Measure frozen berries and let thaw, reserving juice, before crushing.

6 cups blueberries, crushed

6 cups blackberries, crushed

1 1/2 cups water

7 cups granulated sugar

2 pouches liquid pectin

In an 8-quart stainless steel stockpot, combine blueberries, blackberries and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand for 20 minutes.

Place a fine-mesh sieve over a pan or bowl. Ladle the cooked berries into the sieve and drain the juice from the fruit pulp. Discard the pulp. Rinse the sieve and line it with a piece of damp, folded, fine-knit cheesecloth. Strain juice through the cheesecloth twice, rinsing cheesecloth as necessary to remove any sediment to settle to the bottom of the container.

Prepare canning jars and lids and bring water in water bath canner to a boil.

Place a sieve over a pan or bowl and line it with a piece of damp folded cheesecloth. Ladle or pour juice into the lined sieve, being careful not to disturb any sediment in the bottom of the container. Measure 4 3/4 cups juice.

In an 8-quart stainless steel stockpot, combine fruit juice and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly until sugar is completely dissolved.

Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Stir in pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly, and boil for 1 minute.

Remove pot from heat and skim off any foam.

Immediately ladle hot jelly into hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe jar rims and threads with a clean, damp paper towel. Center hot lids on jars and screw on bands until fingertip tight.

Place jars in canner, making sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Process 4-ounce jars and 8-ounce jars for 10 minutes, adjusting for altitude. Process pint jars for 15 minutes, adjusting for altitude.

Remove jars from canner and place on a wire rack or cloth towel. Let cool for 24 hours, then check seals. Wash and dry jars and store in a cool, dry, dark location.

Yield: 7 (8-ounce) jars

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Brandied Apricot Preserves

From the “Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving.”

5 cups sliced, pitted fresh apricots

2 cups chopped, cored, peeled tart apples

2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup liquid honey

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 cup brandy

In a large stainless steel saucepan, combine apricots, apples, sugar, honey and lemon juice. Stir to mix well. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare canner, jars and lids.

Bring reserved apricot mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently, until mixture thickens, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and test gel. (See “Testing for Gelling.”) If gel stage has been reached, skim off foam. Stir in brandy and return to medium heat. Boil gently, stirring constantly, for five minutes. Remove from heat and skim off foam.

Ladle hot preserves into hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Remove air bubbles and adjust headspace, if necessary, by adding hot preserves. Wipe rim. Center lid on jar. Screw band down until resistance is met, then increase to fingertip tight.

Place jars in canner, ensuring they are completely covered with water. Bring to a boil and process for 10 minutes, adjusting for altitude.

Remove canner lid. Wait 5 minutes, then remove jars, cool and store.

Yield: 6 (8-ounce) jars

Approximate nutrition per 2-ounce serving: 96 calories, less than 1 gram fat, less than 1 gram protein, 21 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, less than 1 milligram sodium.

Peach Jam

From “So Easy to Preserve,” from the University of Georgia cooperative extension

2 quarts crushed, peeled peaches

1/2 cup water

6 cups sugar

Sterilize canning jars. Combine peaches and water; cook gently 10 minutes. Add sugar; slowly bring to boiling, stirring occasionally until sugar dissolves. Cook rapidly until thick, about 15 minutes; stir frequently to prevent sticking. Test for gel (see “Testing for Gelling.”). Pour hot jams into hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe jar rims and adjust lids.

Process 5 minutes in a boiling water bath, adjusting for altitude. (If your processing time is 10 minutes or longer, there is no need to sterilize jars.)

Note: For Spiced Peach Jam, tie the following ingredients in cheesecloth and add to the jam during cooking: 1 teaspoon whole cloves, 1/2 teaspoon whole allspice, 1 (3-inch) stick cinnamon. Remove spice bag before pouring hot jam into hot jars. Process as directed above.

Yield: About 8 half-pint jars

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Pear Apple Jam

From “Let’s Preserve Jellies, Jams, Spreads,” Washington State University Extension publication

2 cups peeled and crushed fully ripe pears

1 cup peeled finely chopped apple

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

6 1/2 cups sugar

1/3 cup bottled lemon juice

6 ounces liquid pectin

Wash, peel and core pears. Crush well and measure 2 cups into a large saucepan. Wash, peel, core and finely chop 1 cup of apples. Add apple to pears and stir in cinnamon.

Thoroughly mix sugar and lemon juice into fruits and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Immediately stir in pectin. Bring to a full rolling boil and boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, quickly skim off foam and fill into sterile half-pint jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace.

Adjust lids and process jars 5 minutes for elevations from sea level to 1,000 feet. For 1,001 feet to 6,000 feet process for 10 minutes. At elevations above 6,000 feet process for 15 minutes.

Yield: 7-8 half pints

Approximate nutrition per 2-ounce serving: 152 calories, less than 1 gram fat, less than 1 gram protein, 39 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, less than 1 milligram sodium.

Plum and Crabapple Jam

From the “Complete Book of Small Batch Preserving.” Authors Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard write, “Crabapples are more commonly used in jellies than jams. Combined with plums they impart a sweet-tart flavor and a gorgeous color to this quite different jam. Do not overcook it. Since plums and crabapples are naturally high in pectin, this jam thickens considerably after it’s cooked.”

3 cups quartered crabapples

1 1/2 cups water

1 cinnamon stick, about 4 inches long

4 cups sliced blue or purple plums (about 8 large or 16 small plums)

5 cups granulated sugar

3/4 cup dry red or white wine or grape juice

Place crabapples, water and cinnamon stick in a very large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce heat and boil gently for 10 minutes or until fruit is soft. Remove from heat and discard cinnamon stick.

Press crabapples through a sieve; discard solids.

Return crabapple pulp to saucepan. Add plums, sugar and wine. Bring to a full boil and boil rapidly, uncovered, until mixture will form a gel, about 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat.

Lade into hot jars and process10 minutes, adjusting for altitude.

Yield: 6 cups

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.