In fall, grilling can take on a new flavor

The end of summer need not mean the end of grilling.

For an autumn barbecue, take your cue from the flavors of Oktoberfest and serve up sausages. There are few ways to entertain a crowd so easily, yet leave them so satisfied.

A sausage theme is a fairly novel idea, too, so you don’t have to worry that it’s something people are tired of. After hosting three sausage parties, I still hear chuckles when the invitations go out.

It also is a surprisingly versatile and affordable approach that accommodates many palates. Sausages can be spicy, sweet or savory. They can be spiked with all manner of ingredients, such as tomatoes or cheese. There are even vegan sausages.

“The beautiful thing about sausage is it’s so distinctive. It’s a culinary heritage item that’s very resonant of a region but very accessible,” says Matt Weingarten, executive chef at Manhattan’s Inside Park at St. Bart’s, which serves homemade sausage.

“It’s a great party idea because it’s economical, easy to prepare and to do in massive quantities, and in our heart we all enjoy eating them,” he says.

His favorite to serve? Butifarra, which comes from Catalonia, Spain. Weingarten describes it as a garlic-infused sausage scented with cinnamon and cumin. He serves it with an almond-and-charred-tomato relish.

For our most recent party, we included several chicken-based sausages, which have a milder flavor and appeal to health-conscious guests. Plus, kids love them and leftovers make for a great day-after-party breakfast with eggs.

Best yet, sausages can be cooked almost entirely in advance. In fact, almost the entire meal can be done ahead of time, allowing hosts to sip beers with guests before it’s time to eat.

Here’s what you need to know to plan your own autumn grilling party:

The cooking

If your sausages are raw, cook them in a 300-degree oven for about 25 minutes up to three days before your party. Just before the big event, reheat them on the grill. Chicken and turkey sausages usually come precooked and can go directly on the grill.

The buns

Hot dog rolls are obvious, but lengths of baguette are a nice variation. Flour tortillas, whole-grain flatbreads, dark breads and even pita pockets also are good. And since some people prefer to go bun-free, sturdy plastic forks and knives are important, too.

The toppings

Toppings can range from an autumnal simmered red cabbage (see recipe below) to classic grilled peppers and onions. Even a Greek-style tzatziki works well with lamb sausage.

Weingarten recommends an easy pickled red onion relish made by soaking sliced red onions for 10 minutes in a brine of water mixed with two parts sugar and one part salt. Add rice wine vinegar and soak for another 15 minutes, then drain and serve.

Weingarten promises “great eye candy” because of the resulting fuchsia color.

Also, consider offering a mustard bar. Check out your grocer’s gourmet mustard offerings, put out a selection and let people pick and choose. Arrange the mustards in order from sweetest to spiciest.

The sides

The casual nature of the party lends itself to easy side dishes, such as potato and pasta salads, and simple vegetables. The best choices are those that can be done early and served at room temperature.

For example, blanched asparagus drizzled with an earthy truffle oil (or the less pricey truffle-flavored olive oil) is delicious. The asparagus even could be done on the grill. Oven roasted green beans tossed with garlic and olive oil are nice, too.

A lentil salad with aged sherry vinegar tossed in at the last minute can help cut the fattiness of the sausage, says Weingarten.

The drinks

Beer is the natural beverage choice – especially a dark Oktoberfest brew – but it’s not the only match.

Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, authors of “The Flavor Bible,” recommend a German or Alsatian riesling or, if you prefer red, a Beaujolais with garlicky sausage or a zinfandel with grilled sausage.

Weingarten says more unusual choices would be a Lambrusco, a slightly effervescent wine from Italy, or a cocktail made from herbal Czech liqueurs becherovka or fernet, tonic water and a squirt of fresh lemon juice.

Nonalcoholic options include root beer, sparkling apple juice or cider (hard or not). Page and Dornenburg say that apples are a “magical” pairing with sausage – and not just on the plate.

The ending

Fall classics such as apple pies and pear tarts make for nice closers; they’re sweet but not overly rich. Remember, you just ate sausage for dinner. They also can be done well in advance and be served warmed or at room temperature.

Fragrant Fall Cabbage

It’s an old real-estate trick to put a pot with apple cider spiked with spices on the stove to make a home smell inviting. This red cabbage dish – intended to be served with sausage but also tasty with other cozy meals such as sauerbraten – has the same aromatic effect. After it is cooked on the stovetop, the cabbage can be transferred to a slow-cooker set on low to keep warm.

4 slices bacon, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 large head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced

1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 apples, halved, cored and sliced

3/4 cup red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

1/4 cup maple syrup

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon allspice

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon until lightly browned, but not crispy, about 4 minutes.

Add the cabbage, onion and apples. Stir well to coat with bacon drippings. Cover and cook until the vegetables and apples are limp, about 15 minutes. Add the vinegar, maple syrup, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. Stir well, then season with salt and pepper.

Cover, reduce heat to low and cook for another 20 minutes. The dish now can be served, or held at this stage for an hour or more. If holding, add several additional tablespoons of vinegar or water to keep it moist.

Miniature Cheese Tarts

What could be more tempting to party guests – especially those who checked calorie counters at the door – than a warm, comforting cheese appetizer that pops right into the mouth? Several of them.

That’s the beauty of these miniature cheese tarts prepared in purchased phyllo dough tart shells.

The shells are readily available in the freezer section of most grocers. And the tarts themselves freeze well and take only minutes to thaw and heat. While you have the ingredients handy, you might want to make an extra batch to keep on hand.

The shells typically come 15 per package. This recipe calls for three packages.

2 cups coarsely grated Gruyere or Jarlsberg cheese

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Ground white pepper, to taste

45 small phyllo dough tart cups

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, combine the cheese, eggs and cream. Mix in the mustard, paprika and pepper.

Arrange the phyllo tart cups on a rimmed baking sheet. Use a small spoon to fill each three-quarters full with the cheese mixture. Bake until the mixture is golden brown and set at the center, about 20 minutes.

The tarts can be served warm or room temperature. They also can be cooled, placed in zip-close plastic bags and frozen. Reheat at 350 degrees for about 12 minutes.

Yield: Makes 45 tarts