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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

If small, drywall fixes can be easy

Gene Austin McClatchy-Tribune

Q. I want to fix a number of holes in the drywall of my house. The holes range from about three inches wide to 12 inches. Can you help?

A. Many holes in drywall are caused by doorknobs crashing through or furniture being shoved against walls. Some home centers and hardware stores sell special repair kits for smaller holes; they contain most or all of the materials needed and instructions.

For larger damage, though, you’ll need matching drywall and other materials. With these materials, you can repair all the holes, small and large.

First, check the thickness of your drywall. It is probably 1/2-inch, but could be 5/8 or 3/8. A 4- by 8-foot sheet of drywall is very heavy, so have it cut into smaller panels for easier handling.

You will also need a bag of setting-type joint compound (a powder that is mixed with water), some fiberglass drywall tape, some 1 1/2-inch drywall screws, and a four-inch drywall knife to spread the joint compound.

Drywall can be cut with a utility knife or keyhole saw. With a knife, cut into the front paper and snap off pieces to the sizes you want.

To repair smaller holes, make a square cardboard pattern that covers the hole. Cut the sides of the holes to match the pattern. Cut a piece of new drywall about one inch larger on all sides than the trimmed hole. Trace the pattern on the back of the drywall, and remove the backing and gypsum to the pattern line, leaving a flange of cover paper on all sides of the patching piece.

Make sure the patch fits the hole, then spread glue on the inside of the flanges and push the patch into the hole. The glued flanges will hold it in place. These small patches don’t usually need to be taped at the edges; just spread joint compound over the sides, wait till it sets, and sand smooth.

For large holes or damage, cut the sides of the drywall to the centers of the nearest wall studs. Cut the top and bottom of the damaged area to make a rectangular or square hole. Cut a piece of drywall to fit into the hole and screw it at the sides to the wall studs.

Spread joint compound around the edges and tape all four sides of the repair. Two or even three coats of joint compound might be necessary to get a smooth repair.

Be sure to prime all repaired areas before repainting or applying wall coverings.

Q. Ants make ugly hills between the bricks in one area of our patio. We tried poison without effect, and sweeping the hills doesn’t help much. What now?

A. The bricks in many patios are laid on sand beds that are attractive to ants looking for nests. If your patio is of that type, it might help to remove the bricks in the affected area, spray the sand underneath with ant spray, then cover the sand with roofing paper (tarpaper) and replace the bricks on top of that.

If you still get ant hills, a number of effective ant-control sprays in aerosol cans are sold at most supermarkets and home centers. Just be sure to get a spray that specifies it is for ant control.

Q. My 10-year-old water heater is barely heating the water hot enough at times. A plumber said a temperature-sensor repair would cost $350 and recommended a new water heater costing $550. Are there any alternatives?

A. If your old water heater is malfunctioning and needs an expensive repair, the best bet is to replace it.

Unfortunately, according to the Energy Star Internet site, no gas storage-type water heaters qualify for federal tax credits. But it is possible to get a high-efficiency heater that can reduce your water-heating energy cost significantly.

For more information, go to ww.energystar.gov. To get tax-credit information, enter Federal Tax Credits in the search space.

Most water heaters have a useful life of about 12 years, so choosing an expensive repair could cost you more in the end.

Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at doit861@aol.com. Send regular mail for Gene Austin to 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422.