Vintages delivers style with simplicity

Somewhere in the middle of it all, I forgot.

I forgot about taking note of every nuance of service, atmosphere and flavor. Instead, I found myself relaxing with other diners instead of fretting about a review, settled comfortably into the corner table for dinner at the new Vintages @ 611.

Tucked into the busy shopping complex near Grand Boulevard and 29th Avenue in Spokane, the dark exterior and simple sign reveal little of what awaits inside. The tiered dining room is warm and inviting. The bustle of the kitchen and the bar is reserved for the lower level, while customers arrive in the main dining room at street level.

Our dinner began with the “Over a Million Sold” Stuffed Mushrooms ($6), smothered in a blend of four cheeses and bacon and served with toasted rustic bread. Owner Tana Rekofke says the classic appetizer is one of the longtime favorites she’s brought to the Vintages menu from her years of work as a caterer. Rekofke worked in several Spokane restaurants over the years, including Casa Blanca restaurants and the popular Rocking Horse Saloon, before opening her catering business, A Catered Affair. She later sold the shop to one of her employees.

Rekofke realized her longtime dream of opening the restaurant two months ago. Concerns she had about the diving economy have been replaced by relief and gratitude as local diners quickly embraced her new eatery.

Rekofke is collaborating with chef Mike Dodd, formerly of Ella’s Supper Club and Scratch, on the eclectic American menu. It’s long on appetizers – for a reason. “I think people are eating differently and people enjoy sharing hors d’oeuvres and wine and maybe not eating a full dinner,” Rekofke says.

There are 14 starter selections; including Gorgonzola Frites ($5), Beef Satay with Lemongrass Soy ($9), and a Cougar Gold and assorted cheese platter ($14).

They are also trying to keep the prices of wine by the glass moderate so diners can discover a few new favorites along the way, she says.

The Vintages signature salad ($5 half/ $8 entree) is a nice combination of classic springtime flavors – spinach leaves lightly dressed and topped with bleu cheese and spiced pecans. Sliced strawberries provide the sweet counterbalance. A server wielding a mill of cracked peppercorns would have provided a welcome addition.

The menu promises a signature “slow cooked” prime rib ($23 for a 12-ounce cut, $28 for 16 ounces), but Rekofke says the Succulent Scallops ($18) have become the favorite. It’s easy to see why the entrée, with tender seared scallops, served atop a saffron risotto and accented with grilled asparagus, has followers. The scallops were delicate and flavorful. The creamy risotto provided a nice partner for the seafood, but a lighter hand with the white wine might have allowed more of the earthy nuances of the saffron to surface.

The Marinated Flank Steak ($19) was tender and served medium-rare, as requested. Marinated in soy, garlic and Italian seasonings, it arrived atop a hearty helping of garlic mashed potatoes, with asparagus alongside. The generous meals are served on large square plates. We had a momentary challenge puzzling the appetizer, salad and entrée plates into a comfortable configuration on the table when dinner arrived.

While we settled in to dinner and our conversation, servers were attentive, yet unobtrusive. We shared the tiramisu ($6) for dessert. Strawberries made a reappearance as the garnish and a sauce decorating the plate, providing a burst of spring sweetness to the layered classic. The tiramisu is the only dessert made at Vintages right now. Other options for the final course come from the new Taste Café, including the Ginger Spiced Carrot Cake ($6), a nice take on the favorite dessert.

At a lunch visit, my husband and I enjoyed the shoestring Gorgonzola Frites to start our meal. The cheese was sprinkled over the fried potatoes but didn’t adhere very well, making it a bit messy to share. He’s still talking about the jalapeño bacon that was served on his juicy Kobe burger ($8), while my Greek Orzo and Shrimp Salad ($9) came topped with large, nicely prepared shrimp.

Everything we tried came in very generous portions, so the tender and tasty beef on the French Dip sandwich ($8) seemed a bit lost inside the bun. My Chicken Pesto Pasta, a heaping tangle of al dente fettuccine, creamy pesto-spiked sauce, juicy grilled chicken pieces and sun-dried tomatoes, was easily enough for two lunches.

Rekofke says they’re still tweaking things and adjusting the menu as they learn what works well. They’ll be adding more local produce to dishes as it becomes available, she added.

They have fixed some of the trouble I encountered early on with the restaurant’s telephone message. I was left hanging a couple of times when I’d hoped to make a reservation by phone or at least find out when the restaurant would be open.

Rekofke says her hope is to make Vintages a comfortable, neighborhood favorite. It seems well on its way.