Cellulose, fiberglass are fine options for attic insulation

Q. I want to insulate my attic, which now has almost no insulation. The choice appears to be between blown-in cellulose and fiberglass blankets. Which is best?

A. Both are excellent insulations, and each has some unique characteristics that can help you make a choice.

Cellulose has a higher R factor – or insulating value per inch – with a rating of about 3.7, compared with 3.14 for fiberglass. It is made from ground-up newspapers treated to be fire resistant.

It is a good choice for attics that have poor access, since it can be blown in through small openings such as an attic trapdoor or even small holes made in the ceiling. This feature makes it an ideal choice for attics with truss construction (generally 2-by-4s pre-assembled in factories instead of husky joists and rafters).

Blowing insulation takes special equipment that lays down a fluffy coating that can be as thick as needed; the attic won’t be much good for storage or similar uses. Do-it-yourself equipment to blow in cellulose can be rented at some home centers, but it is best to have the work done by an experienced insulation contractor.

Fiberglass is spun glass that is naturally fire resistant and generally has a neater appearance than cellulose, especially if encapsulated fiberglass blankets are used (these have a perforated plastic cover that makes the insulation easier to handle and keeps bits of fiberglass from getting into the air).

It is available in various thicknesses and usually fits between the floor joists. In some installations where a thick layer of insulation is needed, additional fiberglass blankets can be laid on top of and at right angles to the joists.

Spray foam is another option for insulating attics, but is best used in attics that are to be finished for use as living space. Foam is generally sprayed on ceilings and walls instead of being spread on the floor.

No matter what insulation is used, it is important not to block vents in the roof overhangs or soffits. These vents allow air to circulate in the attic and reduce moisture accumulation.

Q. My kitchen cabinets were very dirty and I cleaned them with a household spray cleaner. There are a number of sticky areas remaining that don’t want to come off. What can I do?

A. The sticky areas are probably caked-on grease, which is common in kitchens. You should be able to remove the grease with a soft cloth moistened with mineral spirits (paint thinner).

Mineral spirits is flammable and has a rather strong odor, so there should be no flames or sparks in the kitchen and you should open windows and doors for ventilation.

You can also buy degreaser-cleaners at most supermarkets and home centers. Look for the word “degreaser” on the label and read the directions to make sure it is suitable for use on finished wood.

Q. I recently put a cedar-shingle roof on my gazebo and would like to keep the new appearance of the shingles. What can I put on the roof to achieve this?

A. It is unlikely that you will be able to keep the shingles looking like new unless you do a great deal of cleaning and sealing.

You will need to treat the roof as you would a cedar deck, but the gazebo is probably exposed to strong sun most of the time, which will make it even harder to keep the shingles from turning gray from the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

Clear sealers for outdoor wood seldom last more than a year, and there might be some change in the wood’s appearance even in that time. If the wood darkens, you can restore much of the original color by using a deck cleaner, after which the wood will need to be sealed again.