Do It Yourself: Caulk will fix costly cracks

Q. I live on the first floor of a three-family house. My heating bills are very high. When I was in the basement, I noticed light from my apartment showing through cracks in my hardwood floor. I would like to insulate this to prevent cold basement air from entering my apartment. Can you help?

A. If there are visible cracks in the floor, you should be able to seal them from underneath with caulk or foam sealer such as Great Stuff. This should reduce any cold-air infiltration from the basement and is more practical than attempting to insulate the entire basement ceiling, which usually contains a maze of ducts or pipes from a central heater, water-heater pipes, electrical wiring and bridging to help strengthen the joists.

It will also help if you can warm up that cold basement. Many basements are cold because they are damp. Running a dehumidifier can help dry things out and improve the comfort.

Many basements are also poorly protected against cold-air infiltration from outside. Places to check are basement entrances, windows, pipes that run through exterior walls and have unsealed gaps around them, and the joint where siding meets the foundation.

Also, if your apartment’s heating bills are very high, the basement might not be the main culprit. Examine your windows and exterior doors for gaps and cracks where heat could be escaping the apartment and cold air entering. These gaps can generally be sealed with weather-stripping, sold at most home centers and hardware stores.

The bottoms of exterior doors are a common source of cold-air infiltration; seal these gaps with inexpensive door “sweeps,” a type of weather-stripping.

An inexpensive way to seal drafty windows is to install interior plastic-film storm windows, sold in kits along with instructions and materials for fastening them in place. The plastic is stretched tight with heat from a hair dryer to make it virtually invisible.

Carpets or thick rugs on the floors might also improve your comfort.

Q. We moved into a house built in the 1970s. The ceilings look like they have been plastered but not painted. They have an ugly swirl pattern with sharp points everywhere. We hate the appearance of the ceilings and we want to get rid of it. What do you suggest?

A. It is very possible, even likely, that the ceilings are not plaster but are covered with a textured material something like joint compound. This stuff was put on many ceilings in the ’70s.

Unfortunately, some of the material used in those days contained asbestos, a health hazard if it is disturbed and particles become airborne. So before doing anything to the ceilings you should test for asbestos.

Test kits are sold at some home centers or you can order one on the Internet. One source is www.prolabinc.com. The total cost, including the kit and analysis, is usually about $45.

If your ceilings do contain asbestos, you should not tamper with them. Removal should be done only by a certified asbestos remedial specialist. You can get more information at www.epa.gov; search for Asbestos in Your Home.

Removal would be very expensive and possibly require vacating the house while the work is done.

If the ceilings are in good condition, options include learning to live with them or painting them with oil-based paint.

You could try removal by wetting the material and scraping it off. However, this would be an incredibly tedious and messy job, and the best bet for an asbestos-free ceiling might be to cover it with a layer of drywall.

If the ceilings do turn out to be plaster, which I doubt, covering with a layer of drywall would be the best option.

Q. My sofa is discolored on one arm, possibly by newsprint or dirt from my arm. What is the best way to remove the stains?

A. Check the cleaning code for your sofa before you try anything. You should find a code symbol on a tag under the cushions or elsewhere on the sofa. “W” means you can clean with water. Any other symbol means you should call in an upholstery professional.

Even if you find a W, test first on an inconspicuous spot. If the test causes no damage, mix about a half-teaspoon of dishwashing detergent in a cup of warm water. Moisten a clean, white cloth with some of the solution and sponge the stains, don’t scrub. Follow up by sponging with clear water, then a dry cloth.

If the stains remain, even with a couple of repeat applications, call an upholstery pro.