Do It Yourself: Plenty of options to warm concrete
Q. We added a room to our house that has only a concrete slab for a floor. The slab gets so cold in winter we are unable to use the room. How can we make the room comfortable?
A. Cold concrete floors are a rather common problem and there are several approaches to warming them up.
One of the most-recommended systems requires digging a trench around the outside of the slab to below the frost line, which in some climates can be several feet. Panels of foam insulation are then glued to the perimeter of the footings and the slab.
For details on this method, visit www.energysavers.gov and put Slab-on-Grade Foundation Insulation in the search space.
In some states where termites are a serious problem, special precautions need to be taken in insulating a slab perimeter, since termites can tunnel through the insulation to reach wood.
A second, rather costly method is to retrofit the slab with radiant heat. Still another approach that can add several inches to the thickness of the floor is to attach foam insulating panes to the surface and cover these with finish flooring.
For information on these methods, search the Internet with phrases like Retrofit Radiant Heating and Insulating the Surface of Concrete Slab.
There are a couple of methods that can add some comfort to the room at moderate cost, assuming that the slab does not have a moisture problem.
One of these is to lay Comfort Base panels, made by Homasote Corp., over the surface of the floor. These panels are only about 1/2 inch thick and are small enough (4 feet square) to handle rather easily.
Cover the panels with a thick carpet and pad. For details, visit www.homasote.com and enter Comfort Base Installation in the search space.
Cork tiles, generally about 1/2-inch thick, can also have some insulating ability and add comfort to the floor.
Q. There is a room in my house that never seems to get warm. I think it needs more insulation and the heating system to it needs to be properly connected. I can’t afford to do both. Which should I do first?
A. If this one room is very important to you, I’d say get the heating to it working first. But if the whole house is under-insulated, you would probably be better off to bring the insulation up to modern standards. You don’t say where insulation is needed, but attics and floors are usually the first priorities.
Q. I have asked waterproofing companies for prices on a backup sump-pump battery and they estimated the cost at $1,500 to $2,500. Should a battery cost that much? What about the backup pump?
A. You can buy a complete battery-powered sump-pump system for $750 or less, not installed. This includes the battery, charger, pump, and some other accessories.
I wouldn’t consider any of the really inexpensive systems, some of which sell for less than $200, but the better-quality pumps should do the job.
For more information and sources, use a search engine and the words Battery Backup Sump Pump Systems. Installation shouldn’t add a great deal to the cost.
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