Brownie blitz

Monkey around with a towering soufflé or a Parisian petit four, and you’re asking for trouble. But brownies – and their freewheeling cousins, the blondie and bar – are a whole different matter. These all-American treats are the rough-and-tumble members of the pastry arts club.

C’mon down, they say. Let’s play.

There’s a certain “pinky-raised delicacy” to European sweets like the macaroon and madeleine, says food anthropologist Michael Krondl in his new book, “Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert” (Chicago Review Press, 418 pages, $24.95). But brownies are a dessert of the people, for the people and – ever since Fanny Farmer’s Boston Cooking School invented them in 1896 – baked by the people too. Brownies, Krondl says, are “quintessentially American.”

And while part of their enduring appeal lies in the ease of preparation and all-around deliciousness, there’s no denying the allure of a dessert that can be adapted so many ways.

“They make a great canvas,” says Stacy Adimando, the New York-based author of the just-published “Cookiepedia” (Quirk Books, 160 pages, $18.95). “You mix in whatever you’re craving and whatever your sweet style is.”

Brownie and blondie aficionados run the gamut from purists to increasingly avant-garde. They dabble in chocolates, add exotic spices, and sprinkle the results with salt and even, in some cases, pepper. They bring in salty ingredients, fresh herbs or dried flowers, like lavender. Or, they tiptoe over the cookie barrier to bring in other elements from the dessert world, including caramels, fresh fruit or cheesecake.

Take the divine mocha-cream cheese brownie bars favored by Emily Luchetti, pastry chef at San Francisco’s Farallon and Waterbar. Luchetti tops her brownie base with a creamy mocha cheesecake layer, then swirls them together before baking for a swoon-worthy dessert that’s easy to eat, even without a fork, but looks sensational enough for any swanky cocktail party.

That’s precisely why blondies and bars are so much fun, Adimando says. They have no rules at all, which leaves the embellishments and add-ins “wide open to variations and modernization of these classics.”

And that’s something anyone can do, not just the pros.

My family’s favorite autumnal bar was inspired by the idea of marrying a blondie to a gingersnap. The result – after many happy teen taste-tests – is a dense, spicy bite of deliciousness, filled with molasses, butterscotch, espresso and ginger. And it’s tailor-made for college care packages. The bars stay fresh for a week or more, and that little jolt of coffee comes in handy at exam time.

Customizing your own signature blondie or bar can be as easy as starting with a good basic dough – Adimando’s favorite gets added flavor from browned butter – and indulging your candy bar cravings. Adimando suggests adding chopped peanut butter bars, brittles, honey-roasted nuts, dried fruit or even pretzels to a dense, chewy blondie. It’s not just tasty and texturally interesting, she says, you get this “beautiful cross-section of all the delicious mix-ins” when the bars are sliced.

And don’t be afraid to manhandle those blondies. Soufflés and high-rising cakes may be delicate affairs, but when food writers Mark Scarbrough and San Carlos native Bruce Weinstein bake their chocolate-flecked buttermilk blondies, they add a little violence to the proceedings. Halfway through the baking, they take the pan out and whack it against an oven rack a few times. The act of blondie mayhem compresses the towering bars into a dense, gooey wonder.

See? No rules at all on this baking playground.

Blondie Embellishments

Customize your brownies, blondies and bars by adding your favorite flavors and embellishments to a good basic batter. Some ideas for mix-ins:

Platinum blondies: White chocolate chips and macadamia nuts.

Candy bar blondies: Chopped peanut butter bars, Snickers or your favorite candy bar.

Brittle brownies: Chopped peanut brittle and/or toffee bars.

Tropical blondies: Chopped dried pineapple, mango and shredded coconut.

Salted blondies: Add chopped honey-roasted peanuts, dark chocolate and a finishing sprinkle of coarse salt.

Blueberry blondies: Fresh blueberries and chopped dark chocolate.

Brownie Pecan Cake

From Emily Luchetti, “The Fearless Baker” (Little, Brown and Company, 288 pages, $29.99). These are perfect for a road trip or picnic. Or serve them for dessert with coffee ice cream and caramel sauce.

1 cup pecan pieces

3/4 cup unbleached flour

3/4 cup cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 ounces dark chocolate (58-62 percent cacao), chopped in 1-inch pieces

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

3/4 cup granulated sugar

3 large eggs

1/3 cup whole milk

1/2 cup chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13-inch pan; dust with flour, tapping out the excess.

Spread the pecans in a single layer in a baking pan. Roast for 10 minutes; check to see if the nuts are a light golden brown. If not, toast 2 minutes more. Set aside to cool.

Sift the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder together. Add the salt. Set aside.

Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over simmering water, making sure the bowl does not touch the water. Stir and scrape the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula until the chocolate is smooth and evenly melted.

Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add eggs one at a time, mixing well after each.

On low speed, mix in the melted chocolate and milk. Add the sifted flour-cocoa mixture and mix until evenly blended. Stir in the pecans and chocolate chips.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out a little fudgy, about 20 minutes. Cool in pan to room temperature. Cut into 3-inch squares and serve.

Yield: 12 servings

Mocha-Cream Cheese Brownies

From Emily Luchetti, “The Fearless Baker” (Little, Brown and Company, 288 pages, $29.99)

For the chocolate layer:

9 ounces dark chocolate (58-62 percent cacao), chopped in 1-inch pieces

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup granulated sugar

3 large eggs

3/4 cup unbleached flour

Large pinch kosher salt

Coffee cream cheese:

16 ounces cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons instant coffee granules

1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch square pan.

For the chocolate layer: Melt the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over simmering water. Stir and scrape the bowl occasionally, until the chocolate is smooth. Let cool to room temperature.

Whisk the sugar and 3 eggs until smooth. Stir in the melted chocolate, then the flour and salt and mix until well-blended. Turn the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly with a spatula.

For the coffee cream cheese: Mix the cream cheese and sugar until smooth. Blend in the 2 eggs, then the instant coffee and vanilla.

Spread the cream cheese mixture over the chocolate layer. Run a table knife through to swirl large white ribbons through the brown batter, keeping the swirls distinct.

Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature. Cut into 16 2-inch or 9 3-inch squares.

Yield: 9 (3-inch) brownies or 16 (2-inch) brownies

Blondies with Browned Butter

From Stacy Adimando, “The Cookiepedia” (Quirk Books, 160 pages, $18.95)

1 cup unsalted butter

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups light brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

2/3 cup chocolate chips

2/3 cup toasted pecans, chopped

Coarse salt, for sprinkling

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, start swirling the pan. Continue swirling and cooking until the butter changes from light yellow to deep golden. Stop the moment the color changes. Take off the heat and pour it into a bowl to cool.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt.

Beat the butter and sugars together. Add eggs and vanilla; beat several minutes, until the mixture is thick and silky. Add the dry ingredients, a third at a time. Stir in the chocolate chips and pecans. The batter will be very stiff.

Grease a 9-by-13-inch pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper, and grease it too. Scrape batter into the pan, spreading it with a spatula or moist hands. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Cool completely. Cut into squares.

Variations: Make Candy Bar Blondies by mixing in roughly chopped candy bars. Or use white chocolate chips and macadamia nuts, and call them Platinum Blondies.

Yield: 2 dozen

Molasses- Butterscotch Bars with Espresso

From Jackie Burrell, Mercury News

3/4 cup butter, melted

1/4 cup molasses

1/2 cup muscovado or very dark brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon instant espresso powder

2 eggs

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger

1/4 teaspoon cloves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup butterscotch chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9-by-13-inch pan with parchment paper, so the paper overhangs sides (for easy grabbing and lifting later).

In an electric mixer, blend the melted butter, molasses, sugars and espresso powder. Add eggs and beat well.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour, baking soda, spices and salt until well distributed, then blend into the butter-sugar mixture with the vanilla until well mixed. Stir in butterscotch chips.

Spread batter in the bottom of the prepared pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until dark golden brown, starting to crack along the sides, and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan, then lift out by grasping the parchment paper and transfer to a cutting board to cut into 32 small squares or 18 large bars.

Yield: 32 small or 18 large bars

Buttermilk Blondies

Adapted from Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough’s “The Ultimate Cook Book” (William Morrow, 2007)

2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 sticks unsalted butter

1 1/4 cups packed light brown sugar

1 cup granulated sugar

3 large eggs, room temperature

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 tablespoon vanilla

2 cups semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a high-sided 9-by-13-inch pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.

With an electric mixer, cream butter and sugars until the mixture becomes creamy and beige. Beat in eggs, one at a time, incorporating them well before adding the next. Add the buttermilk and vanilla.

Add the flour mixture and beat at very low speed just until most of the flour is dissolved. Scrape down sides. Gently fold in chocolate.

Spread batter in pan and bake for about 35 minutes, until the cake has risen. Rap the pan several times against the baking rack in the oven so the blondies fall, making them denser and chewier. Continue baking until golden brown (a toothpick inserted into the center will come out with a few moist crumbs attached), 25 to 35 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before cutting the blondies into squares.

Note: Turn these into blueberry blondies by substituting 2 cups fresh blueberries and 1 cup chocolate for the 2 cups of chocolate chips.

Yield: 12-18 servings