Saranac puts modern spin on old favorites

If you need an excuse to visit the Saranac Public House, start with the location. Housed in what was once the Saranac Hotel, you can access the pub directly through the doors on Main Avenue, but take a minute to walk through the building lobby. The exposed brick, gleaming floors and wrought-iron gates make this sustainably remodeled green building a Spokane architectural gem.

The inside of the Saranac Public House has a casual, industrial feel, with black concrete floors, shiny steel tables and lots of windows. Formerly Isabella’s Gin Joint, the space was remodeled to create an open floor plan where the bar takes center stage with a striking wire sculpted back drop. There’s a small stage in one corner for live music on Thursdays and Saturdays.

“We wanted a place where everyone felt welcome – that’s not just a bar,” says Brandyn Blanchat, who opened the Saranac in September with partner Eric Johnsen.

Of course, the food is also a great reason to visit. Dishes are well-presented, reasonably priced and full of flavor. The single menu includes pub classics like burgers, steak and potatoes, and baked pretzels, as well as more contemporary dishes. The Polenta Flat bread ($8) is a stand-out with hot and crispy polenta topped with sweet caramelized onions, tomatoes and basil. The Thai flat bread balanced flavorful, spicy peanut sauce with fresh crunchy green peppers and chunks of roasted chicken - generously sized for $10.

The Philly Cheesesteak ($13) lunch special arrived smothered in white cheese sauce. “This has great flavor, but I don’t know how you would pick it up and eat it,” commented my lunch companion. Thankfully, we each had a knife and fork, making it easy to share the warm hoagie roll filled with tender slices of grilled rib-eye, onions and peppers. Messy, yes – but it was delicious.

There are modestly priced lunch specials in addition to the regular menu. “A lot of people like to order something quick and not spend a lot of money,” comments Blanchat. The Saranac Public House owners strive to offer healthy, organic food, using local sources when possible, he says. For a dollar or two more than fast food, you can enjoy a cup of house made soup with an organic spinach salad.

The Saranac takes on a warm ambiance in the evening with low lights and background music. The pub was packed with an after-work crowd on a recent weeknight with fans watching the Gonzaga basketball game, but even with the merrymaking, the sound didn’t distract the conversation in our booth.

The black bean burger ($10) with smoky chipotle mayo got high marks from my vegetarian friend, who was generous enough to share part of the burger and the house-fried potato chips that came with it. The House salad ($5/$8) was a step up from a standard salad, with organic mixed greens, hazelnuts, goat cheese and a sweet apple dressing.

It seems a little unusual to offer just one dessert, especially one that involves beer. The Deschutes Mud Pie ($5) was an interesting twist on classic mud pie, featuring a molasses cookie crust with Black Butte Porter ice cream and The Abyss Stout caramel sauce. A little bit strong, spicy and sweet, the dessert had us fighting over the last bite.

The Saranac has a full bar with 12 rotating beers on tap. “We try to do new and local things,” says Blanchat, pointing out Ben’s Brown Lager from Airway Heights and Northern Lights’ Winter Ale on the menu. Blanchat also tries to offer one organic beer, recently featuring a smooth, golden India pale ale from Fish Brewing company in Olympia.

While the service was adequate and friendly during a lunch visit, it was spotty at best during a later dinner visit. The restaurant appeared a little short-handed, and toward the end of the evening our server seemed to disappear altogether, leaving a lengthy wait for dessert and the check. There was also a timing issue with the kitchen – entrees arrived seconds after the appetizer.

But any place can have an off night and I’m willing to overlook a few glitches in service for solid, well-seasoned dishes served in an inviting atmosphere. There’s clearly someone in the kitchen who cares about the quality and presentation of the food.

If you’re looking for a new spot for lunch that offers more than the usual sandwich, or a place to meet for drinks that offers a variety of reasonably priced menu options, then put the Saranac Public House on your list.