Fossil-rich Badlands full of geologic history

No trip to the Badlands is complete without a stop at Wall Drug, which sells souvenirs, features several eating places and has a backyard full of some of the oddest things, including a giant bunny you can ride.
No trip to the Badlands is complete without a stop at Wall Drug, which sells souvenirs, features several eating places and has a backyard full of some of the oddest things, including a giant bunny you can ride.

BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, S.D. – Where much of the drive from St. Louis to the Badlands is filled with billboards for kitschy tourist attractions, from the corny Corn Palace to the 1880 Town, the Badlands feel like they haven’t been spoiled by human hands.

Rather, they’ve been shaped by years of geological events. Ebbing and flowing of waters and harsh winds have created these towers, ridges and pinnacles of rock and mud, streaked with shades of gold, pink and red and softened by grasslands filled with prairie dogs.

Just after passing through the entrance to the Badlands, you are greeted with a giant crater of peaks and valleys.

The formations are so incredible they led Theodore Roosevelt to say the Badlands “seem hardly properly to belong to this Earth.” Indeed, much of it seems otherworldly.

Though many roadside stops offer vast views of deep canyons and many scary moments for moms and dads of little ones who want to look over the edge, other areas are like nature’s largest playground. Many of the formations rise up from areas near parking lots and don’t go too high. So parents can’t rest fairly easily letting their kids climb up, down and around them.

The Badlands National Park has several hikes, mostly small ones on boardwalks, but the Castle Trail runs five miles through the middle of the park. I knew my 6-year-old couldn’t do 10 miles round-trip, so we set out to hike for an hour and a half and then turn around.

At one point we ventured off the trail to check out what looked like caves. As we were heading back to the trail, my 8-year-old son saw a rock that caught his eye. “This is heavier than a rock,” he told me. “What if it’s a fossil?”

We had just come from a ranger talk about fossils in the park. Turns out, according to Ranger Alison Shoup, the Badlands area was established to protect the plethora of fossils there. The region was actually a sea during the time of the dinosaurs, so the oldest fossils you find are those of sea creatures. Throughout time, the area dried up, becoming more like a tropical forest. By this time, the dinosaurs had left the Earth, so the bulk of the fossils in the Badlands are from prehistoric mammals. During our talk, she showed us real fossils vs. casts. The real fossils had a certain feel to them. Hmmm, I thought: What if this rock my son discovered is a real fossil?

Turns out, it was. We took it to the fossil lab at the visitors center (it’s illegal to keep fossils), where rangers there told us it was quite a find. They also told us we should have left it there for paleontologists to examine (we didn’t realize that!). Park officials later confirmed that it was the base of a skull and vertebra of a prehistoric mammal, but that’s really all they could tell.

Julie Johndreau, public information officer for the park, said the park receives about 150 fossil reports each year from visitors. Most turn out to be fossils. “We diligently try to send a letter back to everyone who files a fossil report through us. We make every effort to follow up with the visitors.”

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