Pair your piccata with right wine

In Italian cooking, the word “piccata,” as in veal piccata or chicken piccata, stems from an old verb, “piccare,” not much used today, meaning “to prick,” as with a pike or sharply pointed stick. (Medieval meaning, rather gruesome.) Perhaps the sharp tang of lemon juice in all piccata preparations carries forward that sense today. But it’s also the tip-off to what kinds of wines suit piccata dishes of any stripe: those with abundant acidity. Acid meets acid in glass and on plate and magic happens. This is dry rosé season, so that’s what’s on the list.

The Food Chicken Piccata with Rice

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over high heat. Add 8 ounces sliced mushrooms; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in the finely grated zest and the juice of 1 small lemon, scraping up browned bits. Stir in 1 cup chicken broth, 2 cups cooked chicken pieces, 2 tablespoons capers, chopped, ½ teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat; simmer, 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons whipping cream. Serve over rice, sprinkle with chopped flat-leaf parsley. Makes: 4 servings

The Wines

• 2014 Matthiasson Rosé, California: A mix of four grape varieties from two spots in the state; ethereal. Very low alcohol (11.2 percent) and sharp acidity make it a real thirst-quencher and on patrol for food. $24

• 2014 Domaine d’Eole Rosé, Aix-en-Provence, France: Quintessential example of Provence rosé: diaphanous color, blend of six grape varieties for layers of flavor, soft on the palate but surprisingly deep in flavor. $18-$20

• 2014 Fattoria Poggerino Rosato Aurora, Tuscany, Italy: Sports a welcome, earthy, mineral accent wafting from underneath its big, fat, fruit flavors of cherry and watermelon; great price too. $15